Hamptons
July 22, 2008
Going to the Hamptons used to mean grilling at home. One good reason was local produce, local fish and local meats. But it was also nearly impossible to get a reservation at the best restaurants in the area.
Now everything's changed. Suddenly there are a lot of restaurants worth leaving home for. Some of them will become fixtures (with impossible reservations) before long. These restaurants share a real pride in what Long Island grows - fresh sweet corn from the farm stand just down the street, flounder straight from the dock, rosé from a neighboring vineyard, sweet strawberries hiding under their leaves in a nearby field.
For young chefs here, it's a perfect opportunity. There's a captive audience of diners who are accustomed to eating in the best restaurants in Manhattan and around the world.
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There's also a wealth of wonderful ingredients that redefine the idea of local, which in the Hamptons means really local. In Manhattan, that often means within a 200-mile radius, but here local often means within 10 miles.
The Hamptons are now a culinary destination themselves, which is something no one would've said five or 10 years ago. Here are the very best new restaurants at the beach.
KOBE BEACH CLUB
If you're in the mood for a $375 plate of meat - and who isn't ? - stop by Kobe Beach Club, a Hamptons outpost of the Kobe Club in midtown Manhattan. The room has the feel of an eclectic nightclub - creamy leather banquettes, subway-tile walls and chandeliers that look like samurai-sword wind chimes. One way to over-look the prices is to order a $15 glass of the P.I.N.K. punch. Or you can opt for a bowl of it for $150, made of muddled strawberries, vodka, lime and rosé Champagne. Only at Kobe by the beach can you get a summer steak salad with any cut of beef you want, including the wagyu.
I ordered the American-raised wagyu, which had a clean minerality and was excellent when paired with ripe chunks of apples and gorgon-zola. 44 Three Mile Harbor Road, East Hampton, (631) 604-2610
ALMONCELLO
Once upon a time - last year, that is - Almoncello was an average Mexican restaurant called Almondito. But the owners have been spending a lot of time in Northern Italy. They not only brought back a taste for Bolognese cooking, they also brought back a real respect for the house-made culture of Italian food. The charcuterie platter at Almoncello is piled with fatty ribbons of duck prosciutto, hearty fennel sausage and a melting globe of house-spun mozzarella. The wild shrimp cavatelli comes with sweet shrimp sausage and even homemade breadcrumbs sprinkled on top. By all means don't miss the scallop carpaccio, scattered with black-and-white sea salt. Afterward, try the nutella ganache, a disassembled cannoli made of mascarpone mousse sandwiched between crunchy hazelnut cookies. 290 Montauk Highway, East Hampton, (631) 329-6700
OSO
For the last 10 years, Peter Dunlop has been the chef at Sag Harbor's American Hotel. Now he's in the kitchen at Oso in Southampton, an American restaurant that's proud of its steaks. The $39 porterhouse could easily feed four adults, and there's a porterhouse for two that would fill up a CroMagnon family. Two inches thick and charred just right, it's accompanied by a hand-mashed beet puree. I ordered a wonderful blue claw crab cake speckled with peppers. The porcini ravioli was extremely simple - mushroom slivers bound in thick, doughy casings and spooned with a pungent Parmesan sauce. The only real disappointment was the room itself, which is indistinctive. 91 Hill St., Southampton, (631) 283-1166
SEN SPICE
In every way, Sen Spice defies the beach. It's dark, moody, urban, industrial. It's also Indian - freshly baked naan, brightly colored chutneys and pyramids of basmati rice on nearly every table. I started with a Mamizu cocktail, a clean, summery drink made of muddled cucumbers, lime juice and a green sake-based liqueur called Ty Ku. Anything from the tandoor oven is worth ordering, especially the lamb kebab and an appetizer of chicken wings. The naans are all bubbly, charred and fragrant. My favorite, the Peshawari Naan, studded with raisins, cashews and coconut, might even belong on the dessert menu. Don't miss the succulent prawns with five types of mango, including mango chutney and mango sea salt. 29 Main St., Sag Harbor, (631) 725-0101
SURF SHACK
Every year, it seems, there's a new restaurant in this no-frills roadhouse on Montauk Highway. This summer it's the Surf Shack, and I hope it will be next year, too. It's flip-flop food - lobster rolls and buckets of mussels, shrimps and clams, or (before 7 p.m.) a $12.95 steamed lobster with fresh corn on the cob. I asked for grilled fish in the fish tacos, not fried, and it was the right choice - a soft taco stuffed with fresh, flaky codfish, guacamole, tomatoes, lettuce and a splendid lime crème fraîche. The crème fraîche is a sign that there's a 23-year-old in the kitchen. So is the candied lime zest on the calamari salad. The chef, who worked the line at Oceana, Gramercy Tavern and Eleven Madison Park, is Matthew Purcell. His cooking is as playful in spirit as the surf post-ers lining the walls. Save room for the fresh-cooked Belgian waffles and cupcake or apple pie ice cream. 2095 Montauk Highway, Amagansett, (631) 267-6980
THE SURF LODGE
Let's forget that Sam Talbot was a "Top Chef" contender. Let's remember instead what he's doing at the Surf Lodge right now. He's passionately committed to local ingredients. And because he cooks at the tip of Montauk, he's able to use the very freshest fish. The flounder makes a very short trip from Gosman's dock to your plate, but the transformation it undergoes as it passes through the kitchen is amazing. It's fried whole, topped with vinegar-soaked cherries and accented with homemade curry oil. Talbot takes an unexpected turn in every dish. There are some surprising combinations here - like a crab ceviche tossed with popcorn, juicy blueberries, ginger and pickled onions. Or consider the coffee-rubbed filet mignon or the charred scallops - rare in the center - resting on a pedestal of pickled watermelon and seasoned with mint, smoked sea salt, chimichurri and ricotta salata. Eat outside, if you can, overlooking the pond. 183 Edgemere St., Montauk, (631) 238-5190
TUTTO IL GIORNO
Last year Scott Conant was the chef here. When he left to open Scarpetta in Manhattan, the owners redesigned the restaurant - a country house - to look exactly the way it should have last year, with white wood beams overhead, a long communal farm table and a fireplace painted the same weathered gray as the rest of the room. Now the chef is Maurizio Marfoglia, who was the executive chef at Barolo in SoHo. To my surprise, the menu isn't really missing Conant. There is a phenomenal ricotta ravioli with bits of raw and cooked Granny Smith apples, and lamb ragu braised in a red wine and cocoa reduction. I also recommend the veal paillard - served on the bone and crowned with spicy broccoli rabe - and the grilled Montauk swordfish, with minted cauliflower - purple, green and white. And then, to cap off the meal, a marvelous saffron soup with blackberries, strawberries and raspberries. 5 Bay St., Sag Harbor, (631) 725-7009
July 21, 2008
The classic lobster roll is what's for lunch at Lunch, off the Montauk Highway.
BABETTE'S Marvelous breakfast. Get the whole grain pancakes. 66 Newton Lane, East Hampton, (631) 329-5377
BLUE DUCK BAKERY & CAFE French baguettes and sunflower bread. 30 Hampton Road, Southampton, (631) 204-1701
BRIDGEHAMPTON CANDY KITCHEN Old-school soda fountain with great milk shakes, malts and lime rickeys. Main St., Bridgehampton, (631) 537-9885
DURYEA LOBSTER DECK Best barefoot outdoor dining on clams and lobsters. 65 Tuthill Road, Montauk, (631) 668-2410
DAVE'S BAR & GRILL Locals want to keep the wonderfully fresh fish here all to themselves. 468 West Lake Drive, (631) 668-9190
GOSMAN'S Chefs buy their seafood here. Enough said. 500 West Lake Drive, Montauk, (631) 668-5645
LUNCH A dynamite lobster roll. 1980 Montauk Highway on Napeague, (631) 267-3740
ROUND SWAMP FARM Fantastic fresh-baked blueberry and strawberry rhubarb crumble pies. 184 Three Mile Harbor, East Hampton, (631) 324-4438
WOLFFER ESTATE VINEYARD Wonderful vineyard sunset and rosé. 139 Sagg Road, Sagaponack, (631) 537-5106
VICKI'S VEGGIES I love this farm stand with a free, cut-your-own herb garden. 596 Montauk Highway, Amangansett, (631) 267-8272
THE VILLAGE CHEESE SHOP An extensive selection of more than 120 cheeses. 11 S. Main St., Southampton, (631) 283-6949
July 21, 2008
Nick & Toni's in East Hampton remains the top table in town.
DELLA FEMINA As much about the guests as its fine American cooking. Cuisine: Modern American. Don't-miss dish: Maine Day halibut with local asparagus; Strawberry shortcake. 99 North Main St., East Hampton, (631) 329-6666
EAST HAMPTON POINT A terrific view of the harbor matched by a terrific raw bar. Cuisine: New American. Don't-miss dish: Gazpacho oyster shooters; milk chocolate Ovaltine semifreddo. 295 Three Mile Harbor Road, East Hampton, (631) 329-2800
FRESNO A romantic garden with excellent wine list. Cuisine: American. Don't-miss dish: Calamari with coriander-chipotle aioli; grilled pork chop. 8 Fresno Place, East Hampton, (631) 324-8700
LA PARMIGIANA Families flock to this Southampton spot for its pastas and pizzas. Cuisine: Casual Italian. Don't-miss dish: Spaghetti with frutta di mare; baked lasagna. 48 Hampton Road, Southampton, (631) 283-8030
MIRKO'S This cozy, husband and wife-run spot has been open for 25 years and is still going strong. Cuisine: Eclectic. Don't-miss dish: Sweetand-sour stuffed cabbage; rigatoni Bolognese. 670 Montauk Highway, Watermill, (631) 726-4444
NICK & TONI'S The hardest reservation in town. Cuisine: Mediterranean. Don't-miss dish: Zucchini chips; wood-roasted pork chop; polenta cake. 136 North Main St., East Hampton, (631) 324-3550
PALM (at the Huntting Inn) This is the best Palm there is. Cuisine: Steak-house. Don't-miss dish: East Coast Gigi salad; New York strip steak; hash browns. 94 Main St., East Hampton, (631) 324-0411
SAM'S A casual pizza joint with bubbly, thin-crust pies. Cuisine: Italian. Don't miss dish: Five-cheese pizza; rigatoni a la Sam's. 36 Newton Lane, East Hampton, (631) 324-5900
SANT AMBROEUS An NYC transplant with outstanding gelato and Milanese food. Cuisine: Upscale Italian. Don't-miss dish: Vitello tonnato; ravioli de la casa; hazelnut gelato. 30 Main St., Southampton, (631) 283-1233
SUNSET BEACH Saint-Tropez meets the Hamptons. Always a party here. Cuisine: French. Don't-miss dish: Crispy calamari salad; moules frites marinieres; steak frites. 35 Shore Road, Shelter Island, (631) 749-2001
July 30, 2007
As I plow through the perpetual blizzard of new eateries, I've discovered many a dish that aught be devoured immediately. Thus, I'm officially kicking off my newly inducted weekly edition of "Dish of the Week", or in this particular case...dessert.
Seeing that summer's in full and much of the New York dining set have, for better or worse, made the Hamptons their weekend escape, I've sifted through the lot and happened upon a dessert so divinely dreamy it's just wrong. That's right...dreamy. While the parking lot mayhem at dining fixture Nick & Toni's may compel you to continue farther East to The Clam Bar in Amangansett (a worthwhile & laid back alternative), the peach & walnut tarte is inarguably worth clamoring for a parking spot. As we sunk our spoons into the gooey depths of this blissfully warm nibble of summer, silence fell over our table. A dense, flaky pastry shell was the perfect platform for a mess of supple chunks of fresh peaches & crunchy bits of walnut, all topped with a intense nectarine ice cream. But pastry chef Molly Harding didn't stop there. Oh no, she went beyond the call of duty, drizzling the already toothsome creation with caramel sauce. While dinner at Nick & Toni's is anything but a bargain (an appetizer of sheep's milk ricotta, speck & honey goes for $18), the nearly transporting whisper of this $12 sweet nothing seems like a bargain.
Address: 136 North Main St., East Hampton
Phone: 631.324.3550
Weekly Hamptons Fix: The Beach
Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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May 30, 2007
New York City's loss tastes a lot like Sag Harbor's gain as Scott Conant resurfaces at the beach. After his recent split with partner Chris Cannon, Conant made an exit from the kitchens of L'Impero & Alto. But before parting, he left his mark as a capable Italian chef with a clientele so loyal they followed him all the way to a quaint new eatery overlooking the Sag Harbor Marina. Co-owners Larry Baum & retired Conde Nast CEO Steve Florio brilliantly wrangled Conant to consult on the straightforward Italian menu. "I'm not reinventing the wheel," Scott explains as he details the bold, but simple flavors in an asparagus & mussel soup or fritto misto.
The cozy, yellow-tinted setting offers 30 thirty already very precious seats. Only the Thursday before Memorial Day Weekend and there was already a 45 minute wait for a table. There's also patio seating, but that's presently serving as a waiting area while the staff settles in for the summer. I scrambled for one of five bar seats: with generous wiggle room and a view of the marina, these are unquestionably the best seats in the house. Known more for its flashy club scene than haute dining, Tutto Il Giorno throws the Hamptons a curveball.
First came glistening pearls of branzino, silkened with olive oil and avocado, then dusted with the perfect sprinkling of sea salt. Next, an enormously flavorful bowl of emerald green pea soup, served cold and capped with goat cheese & crunchy tarragon croutons. But Conant throws the knockout punch with an intoxicatingly fragrant polenta with truffled mushroom fricassee. (Heads turned as my truffle-seduced polenta traveled through the dining room. Seriously.) I hadn't even gotten to the main courses and I'd already hit a culinary climax.
While the rest of meal was mostly excellent, nothing could trump the polenta. Still, endearingly irregular strands of spaghetti brushed with just-plucked tomato sauce, made a sterling effort. A few dishes did veer slightly off course: an uneventful snapper lacked gusto and what seemed like an entire ciabatta loaf swallowed a terrific soft shell crab. Mingled with avocado, tomato and a spicy kick of dressed-up mayonnaise, slices could quickly remedy this otherwise delicious sandwich.
Let's just hope Scott Conant returns to the city come Labor Day.
Address: 5 Bay Street, Sag Harbor NY
Phone:631.725.7009
Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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June 27, 2006
341 Pantiago Road
East Hampton, NY
631-324-3199
TYPE: Contemporary American
VIBE: The city takes the Hamptons.
OCCASION: A family outing.
GO WITH: Grownups (parents or family).
DON'T MISS DISH: BBQ baby back ribs
DON'T BOTHER DISH: Laundry chowder
PRICE: $45 & up
RESERVATIONS: Recommended (It's the Hamptons).
HOURS: Dinner, Monday-Sunday, 5:30-11 PM.
Losing its lease after twenty-five years, The Laundry, practically a Hamptons restaurant insitution, has moved into the former home of the Farmhouse (an alluring country chic space). What could've been a potential blessing in disguise, has been sadly undone by the recent renovations. The newly modern Laundry lacks all of the charm of not only the old Laundry, but also the now defunct Farmhouse. It's been transformed into a minimalist white space decked with black-and-white accents, mirrored walls, potted orchids & the occasional orchid print (all of which seemed out of place at the beach never mind a farmhouse).
There is hope: a black marble bar with an attractive wood-burning oven is a great solution for reservation-challenged diners, a casual meal, or dining alone (seats 15-20). It was definitely buzzing Sunday night with lots of see-and-be-scenesters, of the older NY money crowd, 50-70 year olds. Lots of divorcees slyly prowling over their extra-thick sirloin steak, juicy, but slightly overcooked.
I was relieved to discover the new menu still has most Laundry classics intact (BBQ ribs, chicken). Call me nostalgic, I started off with the BBQ baby back ribs, sufficiently smothered in a smoky yet subtly sweet sludge of BBQ sauce, tasty but not fall-off-the-bone tender (which is apparently intentional according to owner, Stuart Kreisler, as they braise the ribs first). The roasted organic beets were simply dressed with slivers of fresh fennel, pistachios and a rather remarkable black walnut vinaigrette (they should bottle the stuff). However, the chowder was tomato broth heavy and very light on seafood (I found but one lone clam in my bowl). Experiencing buyer's remorse by way of chowder, I snuck a bite of a friend's Laundry Hamburger, overcooked and chewy, then refocused my efforts on a salty mountain of perfectly crunchy fries. We ordered seconds. A food fight ensued over the grilled scottish salmon: mine arrived overcooked and dry (must be a new theme), while my friend's was moist & perfectly cooked. We called a truce over the accompanying roasted artichokes, leeks and a flavorful puddle of potato puree, all doused with a first-rate tapenade vinaigrette.
Sometimes, going back to a reincarnated restaurant can be like having dinner with an ex - it's just not as good as you remembered. Thus was the case with the toffee cake, a mere phantom of the gooey sweet toffee cake of The Laundry's past - this one, was overly-cloying and gluey. All was not lost at The Laundry - the BBQ ribs were still worthy of their long-standing reputation and more importantly, matches were made & digits exchanged at The Hamptons most unlikely singles bar.
Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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