Union Square

Address: 920 Broadway, at 21 St.
Phone: (212) 533-3663
Dinner: Mon.-Thurs., 5-11 p.m.; Fri. & Sat., 5 p.m.-midnight; Sun., 5-11 p.m.
Cuisine: Italian-American
Vibe: Retro glamour
Occasion: Group dinner, casual date
Don't Miss Dish: Ricotta bruschetta, pumpkin mezzaluna
Price: Appetizers, $6-$18; entrees, $15-$23; desserts, $7-$9
Reservations: Recommended
Capsule: Manhattanified Lunetta is but a pale reflection of the original.

Manhattan has seen its share of Brooklyn-Italian imports over the past two years. Frankies Spuntino set up an outpost on the lower East Side, Aurora surfaced in SoHo and Lunetta just recently cropped up in the Flatiron District. But Lunetta's journey across the bridge was by far the most untraditional and storied of them all.

Partners Adam Shepard and Jim Heckler launched the Boerum Hill eatery as a modern Japanese restaurant named Taku. Though Shepard received critical acclaim as a chef, Taku struggled for an audience. So they radically transformed the restaurant into small-plates Italian Lunetta. Long waits and packed tables instantly followed.

The partners saw so much success there that they decided to convert Heckler's high-end diner, Mayrose, into a bigger, Manhattan-sized Lunetta. While Brooklyn was a tight squeeze for 38, its Flatiron spinoff can seat over 76. The menu and even the meatballs are bigger in Manhattan.

Other than the trademark moon logo, the two siblings look nothing alike. Designer Fernando Santangelo has sleekly outfitted the new space with marble tables, chocolate leather banquettes and black-and-white checkered floors.

Luscious and buttery ricotta is reason enough to pay either Lunetta a visit. It's spread on crusty bread and exhilarated by honey, lemon zest and hazelnuts. Even better is the duck agnolotti, stuffed with savory duck and perfumed with intoxicating hints of rosemary. Delicate mezzaluna (half-moon ravioli), plump with pumpkin, are sauced with brown butter and sage. With the exception of linguine and unpleasantly fishy clams, the pastas are excellent.

But too many of Shepard's dishes fare better in Brooklyn. On a recent visit to Boerum Hill, his signature meatballs still proved tender and fluffy; porchetta arrived succulent and yet light on its feet. And an appetizer of roasted pumpkin got a vibrant dash of chili and honey.

At the Flatiron outpost, baseball-sized meatballs, leaden with a surplus of pine nuts and raisins, could've doubled as heavy artillery. An excessively chewy porchetta - pork belly rolled up like a bouche de noel - was overrun with coriander and mustardo. The pumpkin agro dolce (sweet and sour) turned up oddly soaked in vinegar with combatant slivers of red onion.

And there's just something about Brooklyn's resoundingly quaint setting and picturesque window view of Smith St. that you can't replicate. Still, Shepard's ricotta bruschetta and first-rate pastas are attractive hooks luring a trendy lot to the lofty, Flatiron setting.

And while entrees proved inconsistent, dessert proffers a solid selection. A wonderfully simple apple crostata yields a doughy crust punctuated by crunchy bits of raw sugar, and a unique rendition of cheesecake employs goat cheese folded with Concord grapes that manage to permeate each bite.

Lunetta arrives in Manhattan a watered-down version of the original. Though it has the promise of a fine chef, it hasn't yet mastered its inflated, new domain. Perhaps it should take some kitchen cues from its older, wiser sibling.

Address: 116 E. 16th St., between Union Square East & Irving Place
Phone: (212) 254-1600
Dinner: Fri., 5:30-11 p.m. Sat. 5-11 p.m., Sun. 5-10 p.m. Lunch: Mon-Sun., noon-2:30 p.m.
Cuisine: Seasonal American
Vibe: Sprawling farmhouse chic
Occassion: Group dinner; family affair.
Don't Miss Dish: Cauliflower ravioli; roasted Arctic char.
Drink Specialty: Impressive wine by the glass offering.
Price: Appetizers, $10-$16; entrees, $24-$30; desserts, $9.
Reservations: Recommended

Capsule: A diluted brand of seasonal American crops up at Irving Mill.

It's not enough for restaurants to showcase their greenmarket produce on the plate anymore. They are wearing this season's harvest as if it's the hottest fashion accessory - a culinary badge of honor.

Just follow the trail of fruits and vegetables to your table. A pomegranate-stocked wheelbarrow greets you at the entrance of Union Square's Irving Mill. There's a "harvest table" - strewn with squash, chestnuts and gourds - that separates the bar from the main dining room. It's just past a large millstone that stands in the middle of the sprawling space.

Owners Mario, Sergio and Suzanne Riva have reconceived what was formerly Candela as an homage to the nearby Farmer's Market and chef/partner Jon Schaefer's pedigree. After 12 years at Gramercy Tavern, Schaefer practically has rustic New American cooking coursing through his veins. Thus, the menu enlists the greenmarket's usual suspects: butternut squash with chestnuts; duck breast with quinoa, autumn beans and Swiss chard.

This is seasonal American for the masses: Both the farmhouse-chic decor and the familiar strides of the plates evoke a diluted brand of cuisine. On this level, Irving Mill successfully appeals to a mixed bag of patrons. A domesticated set currently populates a sea of tables, while a more youthful crowd collects around the up-front bar.

Chicken liver crostini is nicely balanced by quince and aged balsamic vinegar. Though a hearts of palm salad - consisting of avocado cream, frisée and orange segments - was prettier to look at than actually consume, it still served its seasonal function on the menu. But too many dishes failed to reach extraordinary heights.

Grilled octopus with pepper caponata neither sparked delight nor outright displeasure. While the octopus was sufficiently tender, the caponata lent the dish little in the way of tang or punch. Other than a crusty exterior, a dull cod fell into neutral territory - a veritable Switzerland of plates.

Other dishes proved combinations with little rhyme or reason, resulting in flavors that canceled each other out. A haphazard collection of chanterelles, spinach and Jerusalem artichokes amounted to an earthy overabundance swallowing a fillet of sea bass. A runt-sized quail battled against paprika-smothered grits. An emasculated pork chop arrived in dainty slices, its juicy essence stifled by bitter cabbage and tart mustard seeds. A tasty mustard-spiced spatzle was the dish's sole saving grace, and easily worthy of better placement on the menu.

But when Schaefer gets it right, he hits high marks. Superb cauliflower ravioli get a shower of hazelnuts, capers and Parmesan cheese. Cabbage, lentils and cipollini set a vibrant stage for a deftly cooked Arctic char.

Though dry gingerbread was ill-paired with salty squash and kumquat marmalade, pastry chef Colleen Grapes (The Red Cat) executes a decadent parfait. It's layered with peanut butter and chocolate caramel mousse, separated by crunchy bits of meringue and peanut brittle. It may seem like a slightly generic finish, but that's exactly what Irving Mill is serving here.

121 East 17th St., btwn. Park & Irving Place
212-353-2121

TYPE: Continental grab bag
VIBE: Charmed townhouse
OCCASION: A romantic date or glass of wine
DON'T MISS DISH: Roasted zucchini with pattypan squash & cracked olives
DON'T BOTHER DISH: Seared branzino
DRINK SPECIALTY: A sturdy wine list with quartino & half-bottle offerings
PRICE: $50 & up
HOURS: Dinner, Sun - Tue, 5 PM - 2 AM; Wed - Sat, 5 PM - 3 AM; Sat & Sun, Brunch, 11:30 AM - 3:15 PM. 
RESERVATIONS: Reservations accepted, recommended for third floor dining.
RESTAURANT GIRL RATES: 4 on food, 8 on ambience
FINAL WORD: You'll want to move into this bewitching Gramercy townhouse, but beware of a grumpy master of "The House" and a dull hodgepodge of undistinguished fare.

It's not often you discover a restaurant quite as inviting as The House, at least as far as appearances ago.  Even from the outside, the beautiful brick exterior and generous black-paned windows of this 1854 carriage house demand attention.  Upon entering through a little black door, visitors seem instantly taken by the glamorous black & white decor, crystal chandeliers, etched mirrors and silver-coated brick walls.  While the main floor's tall tables and stools lend themselves to a wine bar atmosphere, the upstairs dining room serenely towers over a quiet Gramercy street.   

As you stand in the entrance, you can't help but wonder why there hasn't been much buzz about this new spot.  But as Eater deftly pointed out, the restaurant's all but unsearchable and apart from The House's website, it practically doesn't exist. The master of "The House", who goes only by J.P. and refuses to disclose his full name, is curiously resistant to answering any questions about his restaurant.  As I waited by the front door, I noticed that every visitor who arrived was not greeted, but rather eyed suspiciously as if some stranger had showed up and rung the doorbell unexpectedly.  After being forced to waiting in a tiny front entranceway for fifteen minutes with no sign of a table, a party of four with reservations gave up and went elsewhere.  The House was unsympathetic to the group at best.  I had made my reservation only that morning and, while the third floor dining room was full, there was room on the first floor.  "I prefer that floor.  It's where the chef's table is," the hostess assured me.

BASEMENT DINING
I don't recommend it.  Dining on this floor is like eating in a basement kitchen.  We were sat directly next to the server station, where waiters came and went with orders.  It's usually the norm for chefs to work inside the kitchen, but consulting chef Sean Olnowich (Wild Thyme in the Hamptons) stood on the outside passively inspecting plated dishes as they made their way to the dining room.  I attempted to distract myself from the bustle with the wine list; an eclectic and happily inspired 150-bottle selection, featuring 15 quartinos and 25 half-bottles.  I settled upon a ambrosial red - Agamium 2004 from Piedmont - which for only $38, was the very definition of a "bang for your buck" bottle.

THE MENU
It's confusing.  While the menu leans toward Continental - oysters rockefeller, lobster club and a raw bar - it's also dotted with Italian dishes, like rigatoni, lasagna and assorted salumi.  Then there's the random hummus and baba ganoush offering, which Bruni makes note of in his Diner's Journal.  What no one seems to pick up on is the only thing that ties tuna crudo, a raw bar and hummus together is the lack of actual preparation involved.  With only four burners and three floors of tables, the menu is a strategic effort to minimize the number of dishes that require cooking. 

THE FOOD
We started with the yellowfin tuna crudo; four thin slices of fish, coated in a caper-olive relish, then garnished with an anchiovy aioli and bottarga powder.  While the fish was silky and fresh, it was suffocated by both the salty caper-olive relish and fishy anchovy oil.  A market-fresh bowl of roasted baby zucchini, tossed with plum tomatoes and pattypan squash, received a bright kick from cracked green & black olives.

I thought I'd strike up a conversation with the chef (seeing as he was stationed only a foot away), while we waited for our entrees.  "I'm more of a consultant for the restaurant.  I'm supervising a bunch of different projects in the city right now," the chef insisted when I inquired about his new job.  So much for small talk.

The seared branzino was an unremarkable fish served atop an unpleasantly cold and bland white bean salad with yellow beets.  I didn't want to eat at the restaurant and not indulge in their signature, "The House" Lasagna.  A slice of lasagna arrived unravelled: a warm mess of tomato sauce was studded with a flavorful wild boar and undetectable pancetta.  It was good, not great.

DESSERT
The House offers a daily selection of Blackhound's baked goods,  Il Laboratorio del Gelato ice cream and Steve's key lime tart, which begs the question: who is Steve?  Apparently Red Hook's key lime connoisseur, it was indeed nicely tart and smooth.  But if I want to eat store-bought desserts, I'll make a City Bakery run and adjourn to my apartment.   

Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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111 East 18th Street btwn. Park Avenue South & Irving Place
(212)260-2020
Savory NY video

TYPE: Contemporary Japanese & sushi
VIBE: Feng shui sleek
OCCASION: Entertaining
GO WITH: A date, birthday party, or power lunch - the possibilities are endless
DON'T MISS DISH: Wagyu brisket ravioli
DON'T BOTHER DISH: Tuna tuna salmon roll
PRICE: $50 & up
HOURS: Dinner, Sunday-Thursday, 5 PM-11:00 PM, Friday & Saturday, 5 PM-11:30 PM. The lounge (no food served after 11) stays open Sunday-Wednesday until 1 AM, Thursday, 1:30 AM, & Friday & Saturday until 3 AM.   Lunch will begin come September.
RESERVATIONS: Two weeks in advance for prime hours.
INSIDE SCOOP: No reservations necessary in the "walk-ins only" upstairs & downstairs lounge (100 seats & with an abbreviated food menu).
RESTAURANT GIRL RATES (1-10): 6
FINAL WORD: A big addition to the neighborhood...

QUICK CHEAT SHEET:
Drink - Wine by the bottle (the best bang for your buck)
Start with - Baked king crab nigiri
Eat - Wagyu brisket ravioli
Finish with - Chocolate indulgence

In a city being systematically swallowed by gargantuan Japanese eateries, the newest attack, this one mostly by sea, has set its sights on Gramercy Park's restaurant row.  Having already succeeded in becoming a prominent fixture on Chicago's culinary map, Japonais takes an 11,000 square foot stab at NYC and refreshingly manages not to make a scene about it.  The stylish space is divided into numerous intimate nooks, including an outdoor veranda, main dining room, upstairs & downstairs lounge (equipped with a DJ) - all outfitted with walnut, red & golden hues. 

While I was tempted to linger in a sexy banquette-filled lounge, already brimming with a trendy crowd, I chose to dine centerstage, sinking into a cushy candy red vinyl chair beneath a ceiling of undulating walnut wood waves in the dining room.  But there's no bad seat in this house - even the sushi bar's surprisingly roomy and civilized.  I eased into Japonais with the signature "Floating Orchid" cocktail - a fruity blend of vodka, cointreau, fresh pear & lemon juices, & an edible floating orchid - an Asian-inflected cosmopolitan of sorts, saccharine sweet, except for the orchid, which tasted exactly as a flower should (I don't recommend eating it).

Though the menu seems somewhat intimidating and lengthy, it's simple to navigate if you start with sushi, but focus your efforts (and money) on the cooked "Hot Kitchen Specialties".  I began with an inside-out spicy octopus roll, topped with a tuna tartare so fiery even the sweet eel sauce couldn't offset the heat, practically rendering my tastebuds useless for the rest of the meal.  Luckily, my tongue recovered just in time for a fantastic Kani Nigiri, a tangy tangle of spicy baked king crab wrapped in seaweed.   My last stop in the sushi section was a Tuna Tuna Salmon roll: generous slabs of silky and fresh ahi tuna arrived draped over a dried-out baked salmon roll (I would've preferred the ahi tuna solo).

But it was smooth sailing once I hit the cooked dishes.  Wagyu brisket raviolis were nearly perfect: tender and sumptuous pillows of wagyu simmering in a sweet sea of mirin & beer broth so delicious that I had to be physically restrained from picking up the bowl and lapping up the rest of the addictive broth.  Then came "The Rock", a kitschy & tasty do-it-yourself signature steak dish, that should be required eating by every table.  Marinated in a sweet soy sauce, slivers of paper-thin New York strip are cooked any way you like it - just throw a sliver on your personal hot rock (but don't touch the rock).

Come dessert, I spent time with the Chocolate Indulgence, an unmemorable trio of decadent sweets.  I tried not to pick favorites, but the chocolate truffle beignets - warm and fluffy bite-sized donuts - stashed an unusually rich, dark chocolate ooze that gloriously spilled out when bitten. 

Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl

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250 Park Avenue South (at 20th St.)
(212)995-0242

TYPE: Mediterranean
VIBE: Festive oasis
OCCASION: Take a Mediterranean vacation
GO WITH: A group (birthday) or date
DON'T MISS DISH: Octopus meze
DON'T BOTHER DISH: Dessert
PRICE: $50
HOURS: Lunch & Dinner, Sun & Mon 5:30-11:30;
Tu-Th 5:30-12; Fri-Sat. 5:30-12:30 PM
RESTAURANT GIRL RATES (1-10): 6
FINAL WORD: Sink into a pillow & go fish.

Even a gourmet junkie, like myself, can get tired of eating foie gras foam and other molecularly-altered edibles night after night, which is why Barbounia may be the perfect vacation not only from post-modern fare, but also from the city itself.  In fact, Barbounia seems to embrace a "recline & dine" Mediterranean philosophy.

Upon entrance, waves of creamy fabric draped from a soaring ceiling evoke a dine-by-the-sea feel.  From an oddly feathery chandelier to pillow-stuffed banquettes, Barbounia beckons weary New Yorkers in with pampering arms, a welcome relief from the starkly modern (and often uncomfortable) seating at the latest barrage of industrial chic restaurants.  Still beyond the sea of lively tables, stands centerstage, a grand open kitchen, where Greek & Turkish delights are busily being churned out.

Where the food might seem an accessory to the trendy scene (the music's just a tad too loud), Barbounia delivers a unexpectedly satisfying eating experience.  The menu highlights meze (small plates), souvlaki (skewers), and entrees as well as a stand-out whole fish selection: baked, grilled, or broiled.  First, my night began with an "olympia" cocktail, a seductive (not too sweet) elixir of champagne, pear, Beefeater and fresh lemon juice.  Next, I sampled an exceptionally tender and sweet charred octopus, gently tossed with lemon zest, plump grape yellow tomatoes and fava beans with the perfect kick of sherry vinaigrette.  The lamb gouvetsi was a tasty stew of savory minced lamb, tomato ragu and risotto, but much too rich a dish to order as an appetizer (I dare suggest it be relocated to the entree section).   

Think fish when it comes to your main course.  I tried a delicate yet crispy-skinned red snapper sharply accented by artichoke hearts, olives and sweet red peppers.  The branzino (I got it grilled) was expertly prepared, a fresh, flaky meat with a touch of lemon and olive oil.  While the desserts stumbled, I decided to cap off my visit with a brandied apricot cocktail, a toothsome end to my Barbounia vacation. 

Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl