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On February 1st, City Bakery launches a month-long celebration of hot chocolate in all of its glorious variations. Though this Flatiron shop is praised year-round for its rich melted chocolate topped off with a homemade marshmallow, the 16th annual festival offers a rotating roster of additional flavors, from Caramel or Banana Peel to the Chili Pepper or even Beer varieties. Maury Rubin, owner of the City Bakery and Birdbath, admits he's partial to the bourbon hot chocolate, even issuing this rather curious and passionate statement: “The bourbon [hot chocolate] tastes like what a vintage Jaguar looks like going very fast.”  Alrighty then.  More importantly, we've received confirmation that there is indeed bourbon in this warm elixir, which begs the question: Will City Bakery be carding diners at the register?

Flavors can be ordered by the 4-ounce shot or the slightly more indulgent 10-ounce cup.  While the calendar won't officially be up-and-running until February 1st, a sneak peek revealed an exotic new flavor: Lemon-licorice. For more information, visit www.hotchocolatefestival.com.
 
City Bakery
Address: 3 West 18th St., btwn. 5th & 6th Aves.
Phone: (212) 366-1414

Fabio Trabocchi grew up in Italy, where his father and grandparents taught him the basics of Italian cooking from growing fresh ingredients to buying meat from the local butcher.  Comfortable in the kitchen by age 8, Fabio excelled in multiple Michelin-star restaurants throughout his teenage years.  He then traveled the world learning regional cuisines and kitchen styles, eventually standing still in Washington, DC to create the concept and open Maestro, located in Tyson's Corner, VA.  Here, he received 4-star reviews and the James Beard Award for Best Chef in the Mid-Atlantic in 2006. 

Despite his success in DC, New York City called.  Fabio recently joined the team of B.R. Guest Restaurants as executive chef of the newly face lifted Fiamma in SoHo.  He has received momentous acclaim for the fine dining he has implemented.  Signature dishes offered in his prix-fixe menu include the "I Vincisgrassi" with Le Marche lasagna and black trumpets and the "Il Tonno," crudo of ahi tuna topped marinated sardines, sea urchin, and panne frito.

Status: Single/Married/Divorced
Married

What did you want to be when you grew up?
I still haven’t decided.

What was your first job in food?
When I was 14 I got a job working in a small seasonal restaurant in Numana, in Le Marche, by the sea.

You grew up in Italy cooking beside your father and grandfather; How did your family influence your perception of food and cooking?
For my father, food was just a normal part of life.  I received an indirect education from him every day because we did the simple tasks necessary to feed the family.  I went with him to farms, butcher shops and markets, and learned how to select the best products along the way.  His eye for picking the best ingredients trained me to spot them right away; a skill which I now use all the time.

What favorite recipes do you attribute to your childhood?
Crema Fritta, a traditional Marchigiano dish.  It is essentially just fried pastry cream.  Delicious.

You have been working in Michelin restaurants since you were 16.  How was being young in that environment instrumental in becoming the chef you are today?
The experience shaped my character as a chef very early.  I consider myself very lucky to have spent time in those kitchens at such a young age.  What I learned during that time is like a briefcase of knowledge that I’ve carried with me everywhere since. It was also an instrumental foundation to stand on when I went out on my own.

You have worked all over the world – Moscow, London, Spain– do you have a favorite region to work?
Working in New York is unlike anywhere else and the energy here is inspiring.  I have loved it so far.  But I think my favorite place is Spain – working there was a tremendous experience and it has a special place in heart because it is where my wife is from and we go often to visit family.

Most recently, you were chef de cuisine at Maestro in the Ritz-Carlton Tysons Corner in McLean, VA, where you earned 4-stars from the Washington Post. What did it feel like to get 4-stars?
Each time it was one minute of glory followed by a year of responsibility until the next review.  The Washington Post re-reviews top restaurants each year, so once we had four it was hard work to maintain that standard.  It is a combination of hard work and vision, and never a one-man game.

Moving to NYC, you are the executive chef at Fiamma. How has the transition from DC to NYC been? What are the biggest differences in the restaurant industry?
The New York marketplace is much more competitive than Washington due to the pure volume of restaurants and chefs, and it has been an adjustment working in this professional climate.  I was very fortunate to have been supported by my former team at Maestro – many of them came with me when I left. I felt responsible for them and offered everyone a job.

Also, at Maestro I had an open kitchen, and now at Fiamma it is a closed one, so it is a completely different way of working.

How has the restaurant changed since all of the positive reviews you've recently received?
The restaurant is certainly busier.  The food is always evolving and it is important to me to keep tuned into what the New York clientele love to eat and want to come back for. Reviews are wonderful, but I have learned that it is important to embrace the customers in each different market that you work in.

Having worked in kitchens all over the world, how does the culinary scene in NYC compare?
The New York culinary scene is like an all-star team.  You are cooking with chefs from all over the world in one town.  There’s always an excuse to go out and experience new cuisine, which is exciting.

Your pasta dishes at Fiamma are truly spectacular. What is your take on some NYC Italian restaurants not making their own pasta?
I think the majority of Italian restaurant that are sticking to the vision of true Italian cuisine DO make their own pasta.  Pasta is so personal because of the culture of making it Italy, that it just makes sense to make your own.  It is important to do it yourself if you want to control the product and know exactly what goes into it.

What's your favorite dish on Fiamma’s menu right now and why?

 

Where Valentine's Day is concerned, there's nothing more romantic than dining out in New York City. While veterans at the reservation game may have already secured some of the most coveted tables, there's still a handsome selection of enchanting venues. Here are 10 of the city's most romantic spots.

RAOUL'S 180 Prince St., between Sullivan & Thompson Sts., (212) 966-3518. This quintessential SoHo bistro and its classic French fare make for an effortlessly romantic evening. The three-course meal ($75) features chestnut and foie gras ravioli as well as sea bass with Maine mussel fondue. Request the cozy enclosed garden, then retreat to the upstairs loft for an after-dinner reading from the resident fortune teller.

ELEVEN MADISON PARK 11 Madison Ave., at 24th St., (212) 889-0905.  Serious food lovers can feast on acclaimed chef Daniel Humm's outstanding French fare and partake in a sumptuous, seven-course tasting menu ($225), including diver scallops with black truffles. Dine under exquisite vaulted ceilings or settle into one of the more intimate dining suites at Danny Meyer's lavish Flatiron destination.

DRESSLER 149 Broadway, near Driggs Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 384-6343. With its stunning chandeliers and mosaic tile floor, this polished New American is an enchanting Williamsburg oasis. The three-course tasting menu ($70) is scattered with a flurry of aphrodisiacs: oysters, foie gras, scallops and artichoke hearts.

PUBLIC 210 Elizabeth St., between Prince and Spring Sts., (212) 343-7011. If a dining room lit with one thousand flickering candles doesn't sound romantic enough, there's also the exotic allure of an Australasian menu with a five-course tasting menu ($90), featuring a New Zealand venison chop with truffle parsnip mash.

DESSERT STUDIO (at Chocolat Michel Cluizel), 888 Broadway, at 19th St., (212) 477-7355. You may want to skip dinner...

To read the complete article on The New York Daily News

 

This week we introduce Gizmo Girl: your guide to the latest gastronomical gadgets and gizmos.  Every Monday we will reveal our new favorite gadget to stir up your kitchen, a new accessory to doll up your tabletop, or a cooking accessory that we can't live without.

We begin this week with Anthropologie's Measuring Gaggle.  This gaggle of geese are nesting measuring cups, providing a little amusement when baking cookies, making soup, or just measuring out your morning granola.

Measuring Gaggle

Want to share your favorite kitchen gizmo? Email Us.

Photo Credit: www.notcot.com

Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
**Don't forget to subscribe for Restaurant Girl's Weekly Newsletter**

From Centro Vinoteca

6 eggs
1 ½ cups mayonnaise
1 tablespoon truffle oil
Pinch of cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons black truffle peelings, finely chopped (optional)
Chopped chives for garnish

1. Place the eggs in a pot and cover with tap water. The level of water should be about 1 inch above the eggs.

2. Bring the pot to a boil. Turn off the heat, cover and let sit for exactly 13 minutes. Uncover and run the eggs under cold water to cool if using immediately or refrigerate until ready to use.

3. Peel the eggs and cut in half lengthwise. Remove the yolks from the whites. Place the yolks in a mixer bowl or mash with a fork. Add the mayo, truffle oil, cayenne and      peelings if using.

4. Whip until very light and fluffy. *If you want a little more truffle flavor add a little more truffle oil. Proceed with caution – it is very easy to over-truffle.

5. Pipe or spoon the yolk mixture into the egg whites. Sprinkle with chopped chives.

6. Mangia bene!

Address: 74 7th Ave S. btwn Barrow & Bleeker Sts.
Phone: (212)367-7470

*1/2 Stars
Address: 44 W. 44th St., between Fifth & Sixth Aves.
Phone: (212) 944-8844
Hours: Dinner, Sun.-Thur., 5:30 p.m.-11 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5:30 p.m.-midnight. Breakfast & lunch service.
Cuisine: Modern American.
Vibe: Yacht adrift.
Occasion: Under-the-radar dinner; hotel dining.
Don't Miss Dish: Sweet onion tart; olive oil poached salmon.
Price: Appetizers, $14-24; entrees, $24-44; desserts, $12-15.
Reservations: Accepted.
Capsule: The nautically themed Brasserie 44 feels like a restaurant adrift in the Royalton Hotel.

A $17.5 million facelift and a newly minted restaurant were meant to reignite the once iconic Royalton Hotel. So where is everybody?

Media moguls once flocked to the Philippe Starck-designed boutique hotel. Its futuristic lobby looked like a runway leading to its restaurant, 44, the city's most fashionable cafeteria. But even the best of trends fall out of fashion.

After a dramatic renovation, the Royalton Hotel's lobby now looks like a plush bachelor pad. Designers Roman and Williams have outfitted it with masculine cowhide-covered lounges and a two-sided gas fireplace.

Stashed at the far rear of the lobby is Brasserie 44. Restaurateur John McDonald (Lever House, Lure Fishbar) has swapped the minimalist trappings in favor of creamy leather banquettes, glossy teak wood and woven rope arches that evoke a yacht-at-sea vibe. Though it feels luxurious and serene, the space appears timid against the swanky backdrop of the lobby.

McDonald has elected chef Scott Ekstrom (Oceana, Daniel) to oversee the modern American menu that ambitiously straddles breakfast, lunch, dinner and room service. Thus, it caters to a broad scope of hotel guests at the sacrifice of excitement.

Like the setting itself, many of the dishes proved timid and lackluster. A steamed black bass barely registered any flavor at all. The dashi broth poured tableside, albeit a lovely gesture, was nearly as tasteless. Room temperature gnocchi neither benefited from a thin saucing of beurre noisette (browned butter) nor an accessory of white asparagus, distinguishable only by texture.

Even a milk-fed poularde (chicken) wasn't particularly juicy or crispy. And though I was fond of its roasted artichoke accompaniment, they certainly didn't warrant a pilgrimage through a lobby that spans a city block.

But Ekstrom's olive oil-poached salmon is worth the trek. The glossy pink fillet...

Chef Kerry Heffernan's (Eleven Madison Park, Mondrian) much-anticipated South Gate is readying for its mid-February debut.  Perhaps the flashiest thing to happen to Central Park South, the mirror-decked front bar with exposed glass bar shelves overlooks the park.  Formerly Cafe Botanica, South Gate will be a swanky showcase for Heffernan's American fusion cuisine.  A sneak peek at the menu reveals fanciful appetizers, featuring seared foie gras with pears, muscat and pear wafers as well as fatty albacore with eucalyptus, lemon zest and crisp garlic.  As for entrees, they'll include a roasted rack of monkfish with warm romano bean salad, and chianti vinaigrette and pork with cider, star anise, yellow leeks and kohlrabi bacon puree.  With the recent opening of Bar Boulud and Dovetail, dining uptown is getting more exciting by the minute.

Address: 154 Central Park South btwn. 6th & 7th Ave. 
Phone: (212)484-5120
Opens: February 8th (Friday)

**Stars
Address: 109 South Sixth St., near Bedford Ave., Williamsburg (718) 782-2333
Dinner: Sun.-Thur., 5 p.m.-11 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5 p.m.-midnight. Closed Sundays.
Cuisine: Contemporary Latin.
Vibe: Vibrant Spanish villa.
Occasion: Neighborhood dinner; Group dinner.
Don't miss dish:   Pinchos de res (cubed filet mignon); escolar in blood orange sauce.
Price: Appetizers, $7-12; entrees, $15-21; desserts, $7-8.
Reservations: Accepted.

These days, there are many temptations in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. I learned this en route to Viñas, a new Latin American restaurant in this burgeoning neighborhood.

First, there's Peter Luger. The aroma of its butter-sopped porterhouses wafts out onto the streets. Literally. If you can resist this seduction, there's yet another: the lure of Dressler, with its romantic portrait window and sophisticated American fare.

Though nearly impossible to refuse both temptations on my first visit, I persevered toward a quiet street with few signs of life. Then, there was the unexpected sight of a vibrant tile-topped bar, visible through the window. As you make your way inside Viñas, you'll feel as if you've just crossed the East River and ended up in Spain. It's decorated with terra-cotta floors, leather-trimmed benches and salvaged wood tables.

But the more unexpected discovery is the food. The menu covers more territory than its decor: It not only ambles through Spain, but also Argentina, Peru and Puerto Rico. The chef, Henry Lopez Jr., is Puerto Rican. Other than a six-month stint as a line cook at Ola, Lopez has spent little time training in prominent kitchens.

Yet, if you tasted his expertly poached escolar, you'd never know it. The snowy-white hunk is sauced with a blood orange mojo, and sits above a crunchy mountain of coconut rice. Even a swine snob would find his braised pork belly fetching. Its crackly skin gives way to truffle honey-tinged meat that's fanned around a yucca cake. The yucca cake (yucafongo) is deep-fried and stuffed with squid - an entree unto itself.

It's gutsy to peddle meats so close to the legendary Peter Luger. But Viñas takes a decidedly Argentinean approach where steaks are concerned. Juicy cubes of filet mignon are skewered and served with an anchovy- and tuna-spiked red pepper sauce that's a tangy hybrid between chimichurri and tonnato sauce. There's a garlicky skirt steak and a flavorful trio of lamb chops placed over shredded collard greens and a side of crusty purple potatoes.

The lamb chops didn't arrive with an entourage of servers. They were brought to the table by the chef himself, who sometimes makes deliveries. Viñas is a small-scale production. General manager Cliff Robinson plays the part of server and, more impressively, the sommelier. He has designed a sizable and affordable roster of wines by the glass (15 whites and 13 reds).

In addition to full-flavored meats, Viñas offers intriguing empanadas and ceviches, including spicy shrimp invigorated by Peruvian chilies and roasted tomatoes as well as kalamansi-marinated scallops.

The restaurant's shortcomings somehow make it more endearing. There are missteps, like a red snapper ceviche in an excessively sweet passionfruit sauce, and some comically small dishes: a miniature quail and a marble-sized nibble of goat cheese in a guava shell for dessert. Considering the size of the staff, dessert is an afterthought.

The dining room is scattered with a few locals and friends of the chef or owner Mike Jaramillo. Jaramillo has amassed a tiny empire in Williamsburg, which also includes Sweet Farm Bakery, a Maxim gym and another gym that will open just next door to the restaurant in February.

Viñas' inventive Latin fare is still relatively undiscovered here. It shouldn't be.

From Pamplona
(Serves 2)

Ingredients

• ½ lb of rice
• ½ onion small diced
• 1 red pepper, small diced
• 3 cloves of garlic, brunoise
• 1 ½ tbsp of Paprika
• 3 grams Saffron
• ¾ qt of chicken stock                      
• 1 fresh chorizo link                           
• 1 chicken leg cut in small pieces
• 5 oz of rib eye steak
• 10 cockles
• 10 mussels
• 6 shrimp
• 4 tbsp olive oil
• Salt and pepper to taste

1. Make a sofrito with onions, peppers, garlic, paprika. Season with salt and pepper
2. Add chicken, steak and chorizo.
3. Add rice.
4. Cook the mussels and cockles in a separate pot just till open. Reserve
5. Drain liquid, add liquid to the rice.
6. When rice is almost cooked, add shrimp.
7. When paella is almost cooked, if you want to remove cockles and mussels from      shell, add to rice to warm. Then serve.

Photo Credit: Zandy Mangold

Address: 37 East 28th St., btwn. Park & Madison Ave.
Phone: (212)213-2328

After working in some of NYC's finest restaurants, including Jean Georges and Compass, chef Jehangir Mehta has recently opened a humble, 18-seat savory/sweet eatery of his own.  Located in the East Village, Graffiti is a visual scrapbook of his life; the menu a culinary scrapbook of both his Mumbai upbringing and expansive training.  His unique cuisine subtly marries contemporary Asian cuisine with Indian seasonings. 

At Graffiti, his signature dishes include the foie gras raspberry crostini with walnut salad and the chili shrimp with a curry steamed rice cake.  Of course, don't skip this pastry chef's desserts, such as the hazelnut chocolate caviar cupcake with chocolate chip ice cream.

Status: Single/Married/Divorced
Married

What did you want to be when you grew up?
Honestly, I would say I wanted to do something with people - more so in terms of not complete social work type of work, but do something in working with the poor.  I know I will do that at one point in my life.

What was your first job in food?
In New York, it was an internship at L'Absinthe.

How did your family influence your perception of food and cooking?
I learned mostly why foods were eaten; honey is what we had in the morning because it’s good for your skin. I like having it with hot water. Everyday we had fresh coconut water; we ate the foods that were beneficial to our health. We ate raw walnuts instead of making walnut cake.

How was working with Jean Georges and opening Mercer Kitchen?
I really liked working for Jean Georges. He is not the easiest person to work with, and I really liked that. I liked his rule of discipline, something that bothered most Americans. I think his discipline made me a better chef.  He promoted me to pastry chef.  He was the first person to give me that title, and there were two other people who had more experience and yet, he chose me.

How was the transition to working with Rocco di Spirito at Union Pacific?
Rocco’s establishment was very old-style work.  Everybody washed dishes, not just the dishwashers. I liked getting yelled at while working for Jean Georges.  I liked being scared in the kitchen at Union Pacific.  That fear makes you a better chef.

You have a separate business of event planning and wedding cake production. How many wedding cakes do you do, how did you get involved in that aspect of pastry?
We have a website, www.partistry.com, for wedding cakes, party favors, and catering. I don’t advertise it as much because we have so much on our hands, but we are doing events and parties in homes from 20-250 people. I would say it is one of the most enjoyable parts of my job at this point.

At this point I would like to do both, but I would really like to focus more on event planning in the future. I like making their invitations, thank you cards, arranging taxi services for them… the whole event.

What are your favorite seasonal ingredients?
Probably fennel – it is supple and very nice to use.

What have been your greatest challenges in venturing into owning and operating your first restaurant?
The biggest, biggest challenge is accounting.

What’s most important to you in running your kitchen?
One thing I feel that is most important to know is that my sous chef, Didier Virot, and I have worked together for 10 years.  I really think that most people feel it’s only one person that makes it happen.  I don’t think I would be where I am without my sous chef.  I don’t think many people can say they can run a restaurant with four people who have worked together for such a long time. Our love in the kitchen translates to the people who come to eat. I think that’s very, very important.

Why did you name your restaurant Graffiti?
I wanted something that is international, done all over the world, because our food is from all over the world, as is our staff.

What's your favorite dish on Graffiti’s menu, and why?
The scallops, because of its story. I used to cook scallops at home for my wife, and she would always challenge me to make them better. One day I realized that scallops have a natural sweetness, and I realized that I should pair them with something sweet. I made a jam with chili peppers and pickled ginger. The spicy and sweetness of the jam made the scallops what my wife believed were absolutely the best scallop she had ever eaten. Now, I feel extremely happy whenever someone says they love it, as it’s one of the best dishes I’ve come up with, and its history makes it go to my heart more than anything.

What's your least favorite dish (and yes, you must pick one)?