restaurantgirl

Fabio Trabocchi grew up in Italy, where his father and grandparents taught him the basics of Italian cooking from growing fresh ingredients to buying meat from the local butcher.  Comfortable in the kitchen by age 8, Fabio excelled in multiple Michelin-star restaurants throughout his teenage years.  He then traveled the world learning regional cuisines and kitchen styles, eventually standing still in Washington, DC to create the concept and open Maestro, located in Tyson's Corner, VA.  Here, he received 4-star reviews and the James Beard Award for Best Chef in the Mid-Atlantic in 2006. 

Despite his success in DC, New York City called.  Fabio recently joined the team of B.R. Guest Restaurants as executive chef of the newly face lifted Fiamma in SoHo.  He has received momentous acclaim for the fine dining he has implemented.  Signature dishes offered in his prix-fixe menu include the "I Vincisgrassi" with Le Marche lasagna and black trumpets and the "Il Tonno," crudo of ahi tuna topped marinated sardines, sea urchin, and panne frito.

Status: Single/Married/Divorced
Married

What did you want to be when you grew up?
I still haven’t decided.

What was your first job in food?
When I was 14 I got a job working in a small seasonal restaurant in Numana, in Le Marche, by the sea.

You grew up in Italy cooking beside your father and grandfather; How did your family influence your perception of food and cooking?
For my father, food was just a normal part of life.  I received an indirect education from him every day because we did the simple tasks necessary to feed the family.  I went with him to farms, butcher shops and markets, and learned how to select the best products along the way.  His eye for picking the best ingredients trained me to spot them right away; a skill which I now use all the time.

What favorite recipes do you attribute to your childhood?
Crema Fritta, a traditional Marchigiano dish.  It is essentially just fried pastry cream.  Delicious.

You have been working in Michelin restaurants since you were 16.  How was being young in that environment instrumental in becoming the chef you are today?
The experience shaped my character as a chef very early.  I consider myself very lucky to have spent time in those kitchens at such a young age.  What I learned during that time is like a briefcase of knowledge that I’ve carried with me everywhere since. It was also an instrumental foundation to stand on when I went out on my own.

You have worked all over the world – Moscow, London, Spain– do you have a favorite region to work?
Working in New York is unlike anywhere else and the energy here is inspiring.  I have loved it so far.  But I think my favorite place is Spain – working there was a tremendous experience and it has a special place in heart because it is where my wife is from and we go often to visit family.

Most recently, you were chef de cuisine at Maestro in the Ritz-Carlton Tysons Corner in McLean, VA, where you earned 4-stars from the Washington Post. What did it feel like to get 4-stars?
Each time it was one minute of glory followed by a year of responsibility until the next review.  The Washington Post re-reviews top restaurants each year, so once we had four it was hard work to maintain that standard.  It is a combination of hard work and vision, and never a one-man game.

Moving to NYC, you are the executive chef at Fiamma. How has the transition from DC to NYC been? What are the biggest differences in the restaurant industry?
The New York marketplace is much more competitive than Washington due to the pure volume of restaurants and chefs, and it has been an adjustment working in this professional climate.  I was very fortunate to have been supported by my former team at Maestro – many of them came with me when I left. I felt responsible for them and offered everyone a job.

Also, at Maestro I had an open kitchen, and now at Fiamma it is a closed one, so it is a completely different way of working.

How has the restaurant changed since all of the positive reviews you've recently received?
The restaurant is certainly busier.  The food is always evolving and it is important to me to keep tuned into what the New York clientele love to eat and want to come back for. Reviews are wonderful, but I have learned that it is important to embrace the customers in each different market that you work in.

Having worked in kitchens all over the world, how does the culinary scene in NYC compare?
The New York culinary scene is like an all-star team.  You are cooking with chefs from all over the world in one town.  There’s always an excuse to go out and experience new cuisine, which is exciting.

Your pasta dishes at Fiamma are truly spectacular. What is your take on some NYC Italian restaurants not making their own pasta?
I think the majority of Italian restaurant that are sticking to the vision of true Italian cuisine DO make their own pasta.  Pasta is so personal because of the culture of making it Italy, that it just makes sense to make your own.  It is important to do it yourself if you want to control the product and know exactly what goes into it.

What's your favorite dish on Fiamma’s menu right now and why?