restaurantgirl

The New York debut of Ago restaurant in the newly opened Greenwich Hotel had the makings of a summer blockbuster. The famous West Hollywood flagship has long been a powerful magnet for celebrities and movie moguls, including film giants Robert De Niro and the Weinstein brothers, who are partners in the Ago empire. This Tribeca outpost is the fourth offshoot of chef-partner Agostino Sciandri's Italian eatery, following expansions in Las Vegas and Miami.

The recruitment of Grayling Design - responsible for such iconic venues as Balthazar and Pastis - set high expectations for an impressive, Old World interior. Though the space is detailed with antique mirrors, vintage farmhouse chairs and terra cotta tiles imported from Tuscany, the sprawling setting fails to achieve the warmth or authenticity of an Italian trattoria. If you're seated in the rear dining room - worlds away from the buzz of the bar - you'll feel as though you've been exiled to Siberia.

My qualms about the vast surroundings temporarily faded when a rich burrata arrived at our table. It was a...

To read the complete review at The New York Daily News