June 2008 Archives

By Executive Chef Michele Mazza
(Serves 2 as an appetizer or 1 entree)

Ingredients:

• 8 oz Fresh Cut Pappardelle
•  8 oz Tomato Basil sauce Il Mulino
•  1.5 oz Parmesan Cheese
•  .5 oz Romano cheese   
•  1 oz Butter
•  1 oz Olive oil
•  Black Pepper to taste
•  1 tbls Basil Chiffinad

Procedure: 
1.  In boiling salted water cook pappardelle until aldente
2.  In a saute pan heat Il Mulino Tomato Basil Sauce with butter until butter is melted
3.  Strain pasta will and add to the sauce in the saute pan.
4.  Put the flame on low.  Add basil, parmesan cheese, Romano cheese and black pepper.  Toss well in the sauce until the cheese is blended in.   
5.  Place in a pasta bowl and drizzle extra virgin olive oil on the top.  Garnish with a basil sprig in the center.   

Phone: (212)673-3783
Address: 86 West 3rd St., nr. Sullivan St.

By chef-owner Gregory Zapantis

Ingredients:

• 5 Octopus 10-12 oz Each                              
• 10 Black peppercorns, crushed             
• 5 Bay leaves   
• 1 Liter  Red Wine Vinegar                                          

Procedure:
Tenderize octopus in washing machine by putting it through one cycle.  5 octopus can be done at one time in machine.

Marinade:

• 2 parts    Red wine vinegar
• 1 part      Red Wine
• 1/4 Cup  Red Pepper Flakes
• 1 Cup     Dried Oregano
• 1 Cup     Olive Oil

Procedure:
Place all ingredients except oil in quart container and cover with oil.

Red Wine Oregano Vinaigrette:

• 2 ltr-Red wine vinegar
• 2 ltr-Red wine
• 25 Pcs-Bay Leaves
• 1 Cup-Black pepper
• 7 Pcs-Shallots rough chopped
• 10 Pcs-Cloves garlic, rough chopped
• 8 tbl-Honey

Procedure:  Place all ingredients in a medium stockpot bring to boil and reduce to ½. Remove from heat and all spices to steep into red wine vinegar reduction.

Oregano oil:

• 1 Gal Blended oil
• 3 Bu. Oregano, Fresh
• 2 c  Oregano, Dried

Procedure:

by Chef John Iconomou

Reservations are hard to come by at this sought-after, new restaurant in Soho, so we thought we'd snag a recipe and sample a dish for ourselves.  Unfortunately, we couldn't recreate the al fresco dining or clubby atmosphere, but this recipe is presently easier to tackle than a reservation.  On a scale of 1-10, we'd rate this a 3 on the difficulty scale.

Ingredients:

3 ears of corn
1 large duck egg
Micro cilantro
Palacios Chorizo
1 cup cream
1 tsp lime segments
6p Chanterelles
1 tsp chopped shallots (raw)

Preparation:
1. Remove husks from corn, cut kernels from cob.
2. Add 1/2 of the corn with the cream and cook for 15 minutes until corn is tender and cream has reduced by half.
3. Blend the corn and cream mixture , then pass through a fine sieve and reserve.
4. Cut chorizo into small diceand add to pre-heated pan for two minutes.
5. Add Chanterelles, shallots and corn to pan and sauté for 2 more minutes.
6. Poach the duck egg.
7. Place corn and cream mixture on the bottom of a bowl and add egg.
8. Spoon corn/chanterelle/chorizo mixture over top, then add salt and pepper.
9. Garnish with micro cilantro.

Phone: (212)334-2426
Address: 265 Elizabeth St., btwn. Houston & Prince Sts.

By Chef/Pitmaster Kenny Callaghan
Serves 6-8

For Meat:
2 Full Racks Baby Back Ribs (skinned)

For Rub:
½ Tsp cayenne pepper
½ Tsp Spanish paprika
½ Tsp granulated onion
½ Tsp ground black pepper
½ Tsp ground white pepper
½ Tsp kosher salt
1 Tsp granulated garlic
1 Tsp ancho chile powder
1 Tsp chile powder
1 Tsp ground cumin
1 Tsp celery salt
2 Tsp white sugar
1 Tsp dark brown sugar

2 Cups Barbecue Sauce (homemade or store bought)

In a large bowl, mix all the rub ingredients together. Place both racks of ribs on a cutting board or wood slab. Gently massage the rub into the ribs, making sure to coat well. Refrigerate for 12 – 24 hours.

Pre-heat oven to 300°.

Place ribs on baking sheet in pre-heated oven. Ribs should cook for two hours, or until tender. In a small saucepan, warm the barbecue sauce over low heat. Once ribs become tender, brush the warmed barbecue sauce over meat. Cook ribs for five minutes more, allowing the sauce to glaze over. Remove from oven.

Using a sharp knife, cut ribs in between bones. Serve immediately. For saucier ribs, apply a second coat of warmed sauce just before serving. Wet naps recommended.

Address: 116 E. 27th St., btwn. Lex & Park Aves.
Phone: (212)447-7733

Special Note: This weekend Union Square Hospitality Group hosts the Big Apple Barbecue Block Party!
When: Sat. & Sun., June 7-8, 12-6pm
Where: Madison Square Park
For more info: http://www.bigapplebbq.org/

By Pastry Chef Marc Aumont

Ingredients for Vanilla Dough:

• 500 g. Unsalted Butter, softened (room temperature)
• 500 g. Confectioner’s Sugar
• 1 Vanilla Bean, scraped
• 6 large Eggs
• 500 g. All Purpose Flour

Preparation:
1. Cream together the butter, sugar, and scraped vanilla bean in a stand mixer with a paddle attachment.
2. Add eggs one at a time & mix on medium speed until combined.
3. Scrape down the bowl as often as needed to avoid lumps of butter.
4. Add the flour mixing gently until a dough forms.
5. Scrape the dough out onto a piece of plastic wrap, flatten slightly, & wrap.
6. Store in refrigerator until cold, at least 2 hours.
7. Once chilled, roll out dough to about 1/8” thickness and line a slightly buttered 10” tart mold with it.
8. Bake tart shell with weights in a 350 F oven for about 15-20 minutes, until golden brown.
9. Let cool completely. Unmold onto a cake board.

Coconut Cream
160 g. Unsalted butter, softened (room temperature)
160 g. Confectioner’s Sugar
  85 g. Almond Flour
  85 g.  Dried Coconut (unsweetened)
  16 g. Light Rum
100 g.  Lightly Whipped Heavy Cream

Preparation:

By Pastry chef Cory Colton
(Yield: approx 3 pints when frozen)

Ingredients:

• 1Qt fresh squeezed orange juice
• 1 1/3C sugar
•  1 cup heavy cream
•  1 tsp. vanilla extract
• 1Tbl. triple sec

Procedure:
1. Bring half of the orange juice up to a boil with the sugar
2. In separate container, mix together the remaining orange juice, heavy cream, triple sec, and vanilla extract.
3. Add the hot syrup to the rest of the liquids, homogenize with a hand blender, strain through a fine chinois and chill
4. Freeze in an ice cream freezer following manufacturers instructions until the sherbet reaches the consistency of a slushie,  then pack into freezable containers and allow to finish freezing up solid in the freezer.

To serve: Serve by the scoop garnished with fresh berries or other seasonal fruit, or combine with your favorite ingredients in a blender to make incredible fruit smoothies. Also goes great with blueberry cobbler!

Phone: (212)371-7777
Address: 57 West 58th St., btwn 5th & 6th Aves.

Pastry chef Alex Stupak has kindly supplied us with this doozy of a dessert recipe. On a difficulty scale of 1-10, I'd rate it a 10.  But some things are worth slaving away like a scientist in the kitchen and this dessert yields delicious results...

Ingredients:

To assemble the almond ice cream rocks:

• Almond ice cream
• Almond glacage
• Almond nougatine

To dress the dish:

• Bitter yogurt sauce
• Honey fluid gel
• Micro lemon balm sprigs (24 each)
• Dried lychee slices
• Bitter foam
• Minced dried apricot (10 dried apricot will be sufficient)

For the almond ice cream:

• 690 grams  Milk
• 166 grams cream
• 5 grams guar gum
• 40 grams non fat milk powder
• 20 grams dextrose
• 20 grams invert sugar
• 140 grams sugar
• 1 gram bitter almond essence

Method:
Combine the milk and cream in a pot and bring to a boil.
Transfer the boiling mixture to a blender. Add the remaining ingredients and blend until homogenized.
Cool the mixture in an ice bath and refrigerate for 12 hours.
Process the mixture in an ice cream machine and store in a freezer until needed.

For the almond glacage:
400 grams almond flour
180 grams all purpose flour
180 grams dark brown sugar
220 grams unsalted butter
4 grams kosher salt
50 grams almond oil

Method:
In a food processor combine the almond flour, all purpose flour, and dark brown sugar and pulse together...
Dice the butter and pulse into the almond flour mixture.
 

Spread the mixture across a parchment lined sheet pan and bake in a 300 degree convection oven until golden brown (approximately 25 minutes)
Allow the mixture to cool and transfer to a food processor along with the kosher salt and almond oil. Process the mixture until it liquefies. Hold the mixture at room temperature until needed.

For the almond nougatine:
250 grams sugar
100 grams water
2 grams salt
50 grams honey
250 grams skin on almonds (roasted and coarsely chopped)

Method:
Combine the sugar and water in a pot and bring to a boil.
Add the honey and salt and continue to boil until the syrup reaches 158 degrees Celsius
Remove from heat and stir in the almonds.
Pour the mixture out onto a nonstick baking mat and allow to cool for six hours.
Break the nougatine into small pieces and coarsely chop in a food processor.
Hold the nougatine in an airtight container until needed.

To form the almond ice cream rocks:

by Dan Barber, executive chef/co-owner Blue Hill and Blue Hill at Stone Barns

By Pastry Chef Patrick Coston
(Serves 8)

Ingredients for the Brioche:
1 lb 12 oz all purpose flour
3.75 oz sugar
½ oz salt
1 vanilla bean-split and scraped
8 eggs
2 oz water
1.75 oz fresh yeast
8 oz unsalted butter, cut into ½ inch cubes

Preparation:
1.    Place flour, sugar, salt and vanilla seeds in a mixing bowl with the dough hook attached.
2.    In a separate bowl, add eggs, water, and fresh yeast. Mix with handheld blender until smooth.
3.    Mix the dry ingredients on speed one; add the liquid in three parts - allow to mix for 2-3 minutes between additions.
4.    Continue mixing on speed 1, add the butter in 2 parts and continue to mix until all the butter is dissolved and incorporated.
5.    Place the dough in a large container that has been sprayed with a nonstick spray, wrap the container in plastic and place in the refrigerator overnight.
6.    Knead the brioche and divide it into 1 lb 12 oz pieces,  (the recipe will yield approximately twice as much dough as necessary). Place in a 10-inch loaf pan and allow to rise at room temperature until doubled in volume (about 90 minutes).
7.    Once doubled, bake in a 375-degree oven until well browned on top.  Tap the bottom to ensure the brioche is cooked all the way through - it should sound hollow.
8.    Once cooked, unmold and place on a rack until cool, then wrap in plastic  and place in the refrigerator overnight.

For the Caramel Apples...

by Deborah Snyder
(8 servings)

Ingredients:

• 2 c Lemon Curd (recipe follows)
• 2 egg whites
• ½ c sugar
• ½ c heavy cream, whipped

For Lemon Curd:

• 4 ½ T crème fraiche
• 3 eggs
• 2 yolks
• ¾ c lemon juice
• ¾ c sugar
• 1 ½ t lemon zest
• 1 ¾ t gelatin powder
• ½ c butter

Procedure:
Combine crème fraiche, eggs, yolks, lemon juice, zest and sugar in a non-reactive sauce pot.  Whisk to combine.  Heat, whisking steadily, until the mixture thickens and begins to boil.  Do not allow to boil rapidly.  Place the gelatin in water 1/8 c cold water, then stir the gelatin into the curd.  Pass the mix through a fine-mesh sieve and cool slightly.  Add the butter and stir - use an immersion blender if necessary, until everything is smooth. Put plastic directly on top and cool.

For Semifreddo:
Whip the cream to soft peaks and set aside.

Prepare 8 individual rings or a 6 cup soufflé dish by spraying lightly with Pam.  Combine ¼ c water and the sugar in a sauce pot and bring to a boil over medium heat.  Using a candy thermometer, cook the sugar to 242°, or soft ball.  Meanwhile, whip the whites in an electric mixer with the whip attachment until soft peaks form.  Slowly stream in the sugar syrup and continue to whip until cool.

Place the curd in a large boil.  Carefully fold in the cream, then the whites.  Try not to deflate.  Spoon or pour into the rings or soufflé dish, then freeze to set, at least four hours. Can be frozen overnight covered tightly. 

Serve with:
Whipped cream, candied pistachios, candied lemon zest.

The second coming of the Meatpacking District.
355 W. 14th St., at Ninth Ave. (212) 691-0555
Seven days a week, 5:30 p.m.-11:30 p.m.
CUISINE Southern Italian.
VIBE Grown-up Meatpacking.
OCCASION Trendy date; group dining.
DON’T-MISS DISH Spaghetti with tomato & basil; scallop crudo; roasted capretto.
PRICE Appetizers, $12-$17; entrees, $22-$37; dessert, $11.
RESERVATIONS Highly recommended.

In the past three weeks, I've eaten at Scarpetta three times. And every time, I ate too much. I ate polenta and panna cotta. I ate borlotti bean soup and imported burrata, braised short ribs and boneless veal shank. I ate scallops seared and as crudo. I ate cod and capretto. I ate ravioli, raviolini, tagliatelle, spaghetti, stromboli and lots of mascarpone butter.

Wait, there's more. I ate "pie" and "cheesecake." Not to mention yellowtail, octopus, tuna and fritto misto. And all the homemade bread I could get my hands on.

I probably went up a size, which is not something I want happening every week.

I blame Scott Conant. He has a wonderful way with the simplest ingredients. Polenta, after all, is just boiled cornmeal. Until you add milk, cream and Parmesan and layer it with preserved truffles and a couture mix of mushrooms.

Then it becomes almost opulent. Or the spaghetti - just eggs, water and flour. But the spaghetti at Scarpetta embraces its humility. It wants nothing more than a wash of fresh tomato sauce and basil. It costs $22 and earns it.

So many chefs in New York are busy serving arguments. Conant serves conclusions.

And to think, all this happens in a room that was once The Village Idiot - a place where you could buy a five-dollar pitcher of beer, spill most of it on your waitress, listen to the jukebox and gamble at the worn-out pool table.

How do you get from The Village Idiot to Scarpetta? That's what the Meatpacking District is asking. Florent is about to close after 23 years. Mark't was replaced by an Apple Store. Sascha quickly became Merkatto 55. Nothing lasts forever in this trendy corner of town.

Scarpetta suggests the direction the Meatpacking District might be heading, bringing an uptown crowd downtown for an uptown esthetic. The mirrors in the dining room wear orange leather belts and lean forward, so that diners facing the wall get a panoramic view of the room. The roof retracts.

I prefer dining in the cafe, next to the bar. The tall, wood-strip walls give it the feel of an urban sauna. But Scott Conant could open a halal stand and his uptown following - remembering his success at L'Impero and Alto - would flock to it.

In a way, Conant seems to be cooking from an idealized barnyard full of fat, contented animals. His goat - capretto in Italian - is caramelized on the outside, soft inside. His roast chicken is soothing, crisp and baptized with a sauce of chicken livers, currants and almonds. The veal shank - in too many restaurants, a Neanderthal hunk of meat - is surprisingly feminine, brightened by a lemon gremolata and reclining on a saffron-scented chaise longue of orzo.

As for the so-called "pie" and the so-called "cheesecake," order both. The apple pie crust is made of polenta and the caramel sauce has a pronounced bite of pepper. The cheesecake is indeed cheese-deficient. It tastes like Key lime cake batter topped with torrone, a convincing substitute for Marshmallow Fluff.

I have fond memories of The Village Idiot from the days when I was underage. But now that I'm overage, I'm quite content to find myself sitting in front of a bowl of spaghetti at Scarpetta.

There's nothing wrong with being lazy by the pool this summer - the Remote-Controlled Beverage Buggy does all the grunt work in getting off your chaise longue and fetching another beverage.  The remote control allows for right and left turns, forward and reverse.  And the two cup holders assure your can or bottle are in for a safe trip. Here's to safe drinking and buggying.

The Remote-Controlled Beverage Buggy

Care to share your favorite kitchen gizmo? Email Us.

Chef Nikki Cascone has covered her culinary bases: she was once food and beverage director at Yankee Stadium and later held her own on Top Chef, Season 4.  Now, she mans her own kitchen in SoHo at 24 Prince, where she has conceived a creative comfort food menu peppered with organic ingredients.  At 24 Prince, Nikki's signature dishes include crispy mac & cheese rolls with smoked gouda & bbq sauce and meat loaf wrapped in puff pastry with barbeque sauced mashed potatoes. 

What did you want to be when you grew up?
A singer / musician

What was your first job in food?
A Pork store on Staten Island when I was 14.  I sliced meats and made mozzarella.

You made it into the top 8 contestants on Season 4 of "Top Chef."  How has the television exposure affected your business at 24 Prince?
Top Chef has had a great impact on 24 Prince however it seems MOST of our customers don’t figure out I was on Top Chef until they get here.  I think they get more excited.  There has definitely been more transient people coming in specifically from the show.  We are truly a neighborhood restaurant so our biggest following consist of regulars.

Was your experience on the show a positive one, and who managed your kitchen while you were away? 
My sous chef Raul Juarez and my partner Brad Grossman held down the kitchen in my absence.  Raul has been with us almost from the beginning. He understands consistency and is a brilliant chef. My partner Brad, who has never worked in kitchens, had to help out, especially with ordering and inventory.  He can now prep many of the items on the menu.  Overall I had a positive experience.  It is the type of thing you have to step away from to truly appreciate.  It is difficult not to have regrets but I would do it all over again.

After culinary school, you pursued an interest in wine and are now a certified sommelier.  What do you consider most important when pairing wines with your menu? 
I try not to buy over produced or very commercial wines. My wine list focuses on the artisanal wine make that personally handle his wine with love and appreciation.  I have an eclectic lists with a wide range of varietals from all over the globe including Greece and Uruguay. I like the obscure and tend to be drawn to organic / bio-dynamic wines as well.  I always believed it was my obligation to know every aspect of the restaurant industry to be a successful restaurateur.  Wine is obviously a very significant piece of the puzzle.   

In 2005, you worked as the Food and Beverage Director at Yankee Stadium, serving VIPs in the suites.  What skill sets did you develop in this position that you utilize as restaurant owner and chef now?
It was just dealing with catering and a completely different type of service for me.  I was also responsible for 3 restaurants inside the stadium, one was a fine dining steak house we renovated that season. I had a lot of ground to cover and a lot more employees than I ever managed.  That is a very big challenge in itself. I had nothing to do with concessions. I tried to raise the level of service and provide a classy product to the suites. It was great preparation for Top Chef and continues to be valuable to my current position. 

You recently celebrated the two year anniversary of 24 Prince, an accomplishment on this rough and tumble dining scene.   What is your secret to maintaining a successful restaurant?... 

Pastry chef Cory Colton's culinary career was inspired not by his mother or farm upbringing, but rather by Marcel Desaulniers’ television show, “Death by Chocolate.”  After formal education at the CIA, Cory perfected pastry in kitchens varying from The Trellis in Williamsburg, Virginia to the St. Regis in Aspen.  But it was his drive to cook in NYC that brought him to Lespinasse and then the St. Regis, and now, Quality Meats.  At Quality Meats, Cory's signature desserts include his berry & praline crepes or his huckleberry & cherry cheesecake.  A recent graduate of Ice Cream University, do try his butterscotch oatmeal cookie or mint Oreo ice creams.

Single/Married/Divorced?
Single

What did you want to be when you grew up?
Originally, I wanted to follow my uncle’s footsteps into the landscaping industry, but after having to mow about 600 lawns as a teenager to make a buck I threw in the towel and vowed that one day, my yard would be entirely Astroturf! 

What was your first job in food?
My very first job in a kitchen was actually in a pizza joint in Maine…my first pastry job was in the St. Regis Hotel, Aspen, CO where we opened up an Olive’s restaurant.

Apparently, you were inspired to become a pastry chef from watching television? Do explain.
One of my favorite programs on TV growing up was “Death by Chocolate.”  Where I grew up there weren’t any bakeries or fine dining establishments…the only exposure I had to baking was the rustic style of my family and neighbors. “Death by Chocolate” was my window into an amazing and modern new world that I wanted to know and experience…and Marcel Desaulniers’ passion was such an inspiration for me to pursue this as a career. I eventually landed an internship at his restaurant.

You worked in the kitchen at Lespinasse? What was your most memorable experience there?
Yeah, Lespinasse was a really intense kitchen. I was working with the most talented cooks in my life up to that point and the standards were set very high. The pressure for you to do your best was always on and that environment was very stressful at times. My most memorable experience was the night I went in for dinner and experienced what we were all working so hard to accomplish: to blow people away. Perfectly choreographed servers presented me with the most amazing meal I had ever had. To gain the guests perspective impacted my attitude and work ethic so much that I now understood what the real reward was for working in this industry.

Which pastry chefs do you most admire?...

Chef Waldy Malouf is not just a chef.  Though he owns and operates multiple restaurants in NYC, including Beacon Restaurant on 56th Street as well as his namesake pizza joint, Waldy's, on 27th Street, his career extends far beyond the kitchen.  After graduating from the CIA, Waldy took over the Rainbow Room, revamping and earning the restaurant three stars from the NY Times.  Since then, Malouf has written two cookbooks, and now sits on many charitable organizations in NYC, including Share Our Strength and God's Love We Deliver. 

At Beacon Restaurant, diners can participate in the "Kitchen Counter" offered Thursdays, where Malouf personally prepares a twelve-course tasting menu.  On other nights, the chef takes advantage of his wood burning oven, serving wood-roasted wild mushroom ravioli with light cream & sage brother and grilled lamb chops with sweet garlic, mint & ratatouille. 

Status: Single/Married/Divorced
Married

What did you want to be when you grew up?
I wanted to be an astronaut. I grew up in Florida near Canaveral. I was supposed to be a lawyer like my father and even went as far as going through two years pre-law. I had been cooking since I was 14 and only then realized that it could be a career that I loved and began pursuing it as such.

What was your first job in food?
Working the pancake grill at Perkin’s Pancake House in Dunedin, Florida at age 14.

Many chefs say that making the transition from kitchen to writing recipes or a cookbook is incredibly tough - do you agree? What was the greatest challenge in speaking to the home cook through recipes?
In the beginning it is difficult but once you develop a method for looking at your recipes through a home cook’s eyes, it becomes much easier. I never write recipes for my cookbooks in a professional kitchen but always in a well-equipped home kitchen.  I also do my best to not leave out any little steps that I think would be second nature to me but unknown to the home cook.

You have a reputation for building incredible rapport with the chefs you work with – has this always been a priority in your kitchens?
It has always been a priority in my kitchens to build a team of chefs and cooks that truly enjoy what they do. They must always maintain a respect for the food and have a thorough understanding of true hospitality. It is necessary to build camaraderie in a kitchen and respect each person’s contribution, as no one person is more important than the other. In order for fine food and service to be produced, a well orchestrated collaborative is required. 

At your wood-fired pizza and penne restaurant, you bake your pizzas twice—first without the topping; then with. Where did you learn this method and how does it differ in taste from traditional pizza cooking?...

Chef Jared Stafford-Hill has traveled from East to West: previously chef de cuisine at Italian East Village restaurant, Hearth, he recently seized the opportunity to take over as executive chef at bobo, a chic townhouse in the West Village.  Jared has revamped the European menu and implemented a rigorously green-conscious kitchen.  Here, he combines bohemian and bourgeois influences with a salad of jamon serrano garnished with manchego, crushed almonds and apricots, and a dry aged beef "Fiorentina" with oxtail, morels and ramps. 

Single/Married/Divorced?
I'm unmarried, but very happily taken.

What did you want to be when you grew up?
I always wanted to be an architect as a kid.

What was your first job in food?
I was a dishwasher, at a fancy pizza place in Syracuse, NY. I knew then that this would be a good field....

You joined the ranks at Bobo after the somewhat early departure of chef Nicolas Cantrel.  Was it hard to take over someone else's menu?
It is always more difficult to take over for someone than to start from scratch. But we managed to transition the menu smoothly and quickly.

Prior to Bobo, you spent time as chef de cuisine at Hearth in the East Village, known for its Italian cuisine.  How has the transition from Italian to European cuisine been and how has this affected the rather dramatic revamping of the menu?
Both menus, at Hearth and bobo are rooted in traditional European recipes, while showcasing seasonal American produce. We have pretty traditional ravioli and risotto, as well as pates and terrines.

Going "green" is very important to you both personally and professionally.  In what ways do you accomplish this in the kitchen?...

Some might find Gordon Ramsay intimidating (to say the least,) but for Josh Emett, the chef de cuisine for all of the NYC Gordon Ramsay restaurants, Gordon Ramsay instills confidence and prowess, not fear.  Josh joined the UK Ramsay team in 2000, starting as senior chef de partie at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in Chelsea and then shifting to Gordon Ramsay at Claridge's.  In the fall of 2006, Josh left his homestead for NYC at The London to take part in the Ramsay transformation.  Now overseeing as many as 60 chefs, Josh reigns his multiple kitchens, varying from casual/bar fare to exquisite fine dining.  At maze, diners feast upon honey and soy roasted quail with sauteed foie gras and spiced pear chutney, while at Gordon Ramsay, indulge in a roasted cannon of Colorado lamb with confit shoulder, olive crusted tomatoes, vidalia onions and lamb jus.   

Status: Single/Married/Divorced
Divorced

What did you want to be when you grew up?
Park ranger

What was your first job in food?
At 15 at Wilson Carlile, a retirement home back in New Zealand, serving dinner to all the old ladies for two hours, 5 nights a week – it was a very well paid job, I really enjoyed it.

You believe being committed to physical fitness contributes to your performance in the kitchen. How does physical fitness translate into life in the kitchen?
I definitely think physical fitness is a huge part in a job where there are long hours and a lot of stress is involved - healthy body, healthy mind, that sort of approach.

Growing up on a farm, you had access to many seasonal ingredients. What ingredients do you use now that you credit to your upbringing?
Vegetables in general, but definitely working with game as well, products like duck, rabbit, squab, and quail, which I spent a lot of time around and hunted when I was young.

Your restaurant’s owner, Gordon Ramsay, is infamous for his kitchen temper. Have you fallen victim to what’s been portrayed on television?
I believe in running things with a very firm hand in order to get results, but I am pretty fair about things. I have 60 chefs in NY and things needs to be controlled.

You spent many years in England , working in The Savoy Grill and Banquette before crossing the Atlantic to become chef de cuisine at The London. How does the NYC restaurant scene compare to the UK's?...

It's hard enough to succeed as executive chef in one kitchen, but Michael White manages to produce superior Italian dishes at two: Alto and L'Impero.  Marrying into a Southern Italian family, his wife Giovanna was influential in his understanding of homemade pastas and balancing bright and bold flavors.  And spending 7 years in Italy, he solidified his talents in Italian cuisine.  Now residing in NYC, Michael maintains a consistent exploration of Italy, enabling him to add a personal touch to the "haute cuisine" at both restaurants.  At Alto, he takes ricotta-filled ravioli and gives it a Northern Italian touch, using earthy truffle and hearty egg yolk, spinach, asparagus ragu, and parmesan cheese to complete the dish. At L'Impero, the food takes a Southern turn as saffron-flavored pasta is paired with  meaty crab, sea urchin, and juicy tomatoes.

Single/Married/Divorced?
Married

What did you want to be when you grew up?
I haven’t grown up yet!

What was your first job in food?
Spiaggia (Chicago, Illinois)

Alto serves Northern Italian dishes, while L’Impero is decidedly more Southern. Do you have a preference for one particular regional Italian cuisine?
No, they are both very dear to my heart. My wife is from Southern Italy so I have spent a lot of time there, and it’s a “genre” of Italian cooking that I am very comfortable with. I learned Northern Italian cooking when I first went to Italy, but I feel really comfortable with both areas.

Through working with Valentino Marcattilli at Italy's Ristorante San Domenico, what was the best advice you took back to New York with you? It’s not just about cooking…it’s about culture, history and a way of life. It would be impossible to truly understand Italian cooking if you have never had the opportunity to live in or spend a lot of time in Italy.

How do you feel Alto and L’Impero have changed since your arrival as executive chef?
I feel they are both a good representation of the Italian kitchen.

What were some of the challenges you faced working for such highly acclaimed restaurants as Fiamma and Spiaggia in Chicago?...

With the 2008 James Beard Awards on the imminent horizon, we thought it would be an opportune time to check in with the foundation's newest president, Susan Ungaro.  Though Kim Cattrall from Sex and the City will dropping in to host the awards ceremony on June 8th, another woman runs the illustrious show year-round.  For twelve years, Ms. Ungaro served as the editor in chief for the award-winning women's magazine, Family Circle. An award winner herself, she has earned particular notice for her work from the William Paterson Legacy Awards and president Reagan's Office of Consumer Affairs.  Since having accepted the position of president at the James Beard Foundation two years ago, Ungaro has significantly revived its reputation and scholarship program.  Under her supervision, the James Beard's Greenwich Village townhouse has become a dynamic and prominent hub for over 200 visiting chefs, where New Yorkers have the unique opportunity to sample the cooking of chefs from all over the world.   

What did you want to be when you grew up?
My mom recently gave me an autobiographical essay I wrote when I was twelve. I was surprised to see that I wanted to be a nun and a comedian until I realized that The Flying Nun was a popular and funny TV show back then. No, I didn’t dream of running a foundation when I was younger. I did win the Betty Crocker Award in High School and worked my way through college at McDonald’s where I started an employee newsletter for the franchise. So I certainly know what it’s like to sweat over a grill and manage customer service. When I graduated from college, I ended up working at Family Circle magazine for over two decades and spent many days deciding on the best article ideas, photos and cover lines for food and diet stories. Will a chocolate cupcake outsell an apple pie? (The answer is yes!)  So in many ways, my previous experiences are helping me run the James Beard Foundation.

What excites you most about the world of food?
Every day something new is happening. Whether it is the opportunity to taste a visiting chef’s imaginative way with something as simple as sorbet or learning about the latest news in the constant churn of the restaurant world.  I am also totally inspired by the great good will and extraordinary creative talents of chefs, restaurateurs and winemakers today. They are not only true artists, but they are also very giving people.

How did you become involved with the James Beard Foundation?
As editor of Family Circle, I certainly understood the power of winning a James Beard Award and appreciated Beard’s legacy as the godfather of American Cookery. Little did I imagine that after leaving the world of publishing that I would be approached to head up this amazing organization. Barbara Fairchild, editor of Bon Appetit, was a colleague who had judged the magazine world’s ASME Awards with me numerous times. When she heard that I was interested in running a foundation after leaving Family Circle, she recommended me. And the rest, as they say, is history.

As president of the JBF, what have been your most rewarding moments?
Presenting the 2007 JBF Awards at Lincoln Center! The staff and I are incredibly proud of the fact that we successfully moved our Gala Awards to Avery Fisher Hall last year and debuted our Media Awards at the Hudson Theater. It was a gutsy move but one we felt was right for what are clearly considered the “Oscars” of the food and media industry. We are totally psyched for 2008 and so are all the nominees.

What has changed since you became president?
I’d like to think that we’ve taken what was clearly a diamond of the food world and just polished it and reset it to make the next 20 years even brighter. As many visitors to the Beard House know, we redecorated the place and improved the experience for both visiting chefs and dinner guests, created some new programs like Beard on Books which brings authors to the Beard House at least once a month, redesigned our website and re-energized our scholarship program. We’re very proud of the fact that since 2001, we’ve awarded over $1.7 million in scholarships to deserving high school students and mid-life career-changers.

Is there an international JBF presence?...

Craig Hopson inadvertently stumbled into the kitchen as a means to supplement his daily surfing habit while growing up in Australia.  From there he traveled through Europe, training in such esteemed kitchens as Restaurant Guy Savoy in France before returning to Australia to launch his own eatery, Circa Restaurant.  He moved to New York City to work alongside Terrance Brennan at both Artisanal and Picholine, earning himself a reputation for injecting bold and innovative flavors into French classics.  Tapped to run the kitchen at One if By Land, Two if By Sea, Hopson has successfully transformed the menu from American to continental French fare with inventive global influences, such as beef Wellington with foie gras sabayon and soft shell crabs with squid ink linguine and paella broth. Single/Married/Divorced?
Happily involved.

What did you want to be when you grew up?
Professional surfer.

What was your first job in food?
It was in a hotel/ motel in Geraldton, Australia, there was a restaurant and we also did pub food.

You inadvertently stumbled into the kitchen as a means to supplement your daily surfing habits in Perth,  Australia.  How did growing up on the coast of Australia influence your cooking? I was exposed to a lot of fresh seafood and also a lot of diverse cuisines.

You’ve spent a significant amount of time traveling around the world honing your craft, and many of the dishes on One if By Land’s menu reflect both Asian as well as European flavors.  What cuisines and travel experiences have been the most influential for you? I have always worked in french  restaurants   , here, Australia and in France, but I love flavors from all around the world and that is what I seek out to add to my cooking. I cook with the French technique that  but I aim to make every dish exciting and memorable, so I use flavors and ingredients from around the world.

Prior to your current position at One if by Land, you worked with chef Terrance Brennan at both Artisanal, then Picholine.  What did you learn there and how has working in Brennan’s kitchens shaped your present cooking techniques? Attention to detail. Bringing out the maximum flavor in evrything that is on the plate and to use bold assertive flavors. Also to taste, taste, taste!

After four years as chef de cuisine at Picholine, what compelled you to make the move to One if By Land, Two if by Sea? 
I was ready for a change. I was very happy with what I achieved there, but it was time to take on another challenge.

How do you feel One if By Land has changed since you’ve been there? 

Pastry chef Alex Stupak is a master of innovative designs and textures, making him no stranger to the molecular gastronomy taking place at wd~50.  In a kitchen where science takes dishes to a whole new level, Alex has relied on experimentation and a precise sense of balance to perfect the creations that continue to delight and awe customers.  At the youthful age of twenty-six, chef Alex Stupak had earned the pastry chef position at one of most innovative and praised restaurants in America, Alinea.  There, Stupak worked alongside famed chef Grant Achatz, distinguishing himself with provocative creations and cutting-edge techniques. Alex reverses expectations with a cherry-covered chocolate, a dish of smooth chocolate mousse encapsulated by a blood-red cherry gel.

Single/Married/Divorced
Married.  My wife is the pastry sous chef at Babbo.

What was your first job in food?
A dishwasher at a tiny café in my home town.

You were a pioneer of the molecular gastronomy on the pastry scene. What first compelled you to experiment with unconventional flavors and cutting edge methods?
I am completely self taught as a pastry chef, so any methodology or technique had to originate from experimentation, that, plus the fact that conventionality bores me.

Which tools do you always keep on hand in the kitchen?
A retractable razor, a note pad, and my offset spatula.

What’s your take on classic desserts like apple pie and key lime pie?
I leave them alone.  I believe in perfecting classics, not altering them.

What are some of the challenges you’ve faced as a pastry chef in such top restaurants as Alinea in Chicago and currently at wd~50?
Working at places that pride themselves in their creativity leaves you no choice but to be creative.  There's immense pressure.  I get the impression people think this is fun.

What’s your favorite dessert on the spring pastry menu?
Rhubarb with olive oil and yogurt.  It's exciting because my Sous Chef, Rosio Sanchez, created it.  It's amazing to watch her blossom.

What’s your least favorite dessert on the menu?...

Pastry chef Karen DeMasco has distinguished herself not with subversive creations or unconventional methods, but with exemplary, classic desserts.  Trends may come and go, but Karen's elemental style that embraces seasonal fruits has sustained her ever-evolving career and a seven-year run at Craft.  Karen first honed her techniques at Gramercy Tavern, and then Della Femina, where she was well-received by the New York Times. She was then lured by chef Tom Colicchio to helm the pastry department at Craft, and later Craftbar.   

At Craft, Karen’s signature desserts include gingerbread with roasted pear and crème fraiche, and chocolate cake with malted milk ice cream.  But hurry to have a "choose your own adventure" dessert, as she will soon be departing.  Officially ending her tenure with Craft and Craftbar this May, Karen plans to spend the summer finishing her cookbook and working on her own restaurant project to unveil in 2009.  DeMasco is a pastry chef on the rise and we await her imminent solo debut.   

Status: Single/Married/Divorced
Married, for 10 years this year.

What did you want to be when you grew up?
A truck driver, that didn’t really work out.

What was your first job in food?
Waitressing at Sand’s Delicatessen in Shaker Heights, Ohio during high school.

After spending time working in NYC restaurants (One if by Land, Gramercy Tavern), you moved to Portland, ME to work as pastry chef at Fore Street Restaurant. How was the transition from bustling NYC to a more tranquil lifestyle in Maine?
I loved it- we lived in a beautiful (and cheap) apartment on the east end of Portland overlooking Casco Bay and I walked to work every day. I learned how to ski and mountain bike, and made lots of good friends.

You clearly missed NYC soon, as you moved back not long after to become the pastry chef at Della Femina. What propelled that move?
My husband, Bobby, had a great opportunity to open his own business here (which is Pierless Fish- a wholesale seafood purveyor). It was a little scary, because it is a very comfortable lifestyle up there, but we both missed New York restaurants- and there were a lot more opportunities for me here as well. Looking back, I think we made a great decision.

Your current position rests within Tom Colicchio’s Craft-iness, assuming head manager of Craft and Craftbar’s pastry kitchens. How did this opportunity come about?
I had worked for Tom and Claudia Fleming at Gramercy Tavern before moving to Maine and I absolutely loved it. When I first moved back from Maine, I went back to Gramercy while I waited for Della Femina to open. Later, when I heard that Tom was going to open a restaurant I jumped at the chance to be considered. Tom hired me based mostly on Claudia’s recommendation, and it all grew from there. Craftbar opened next, and we sent the desserts from my pastry kitchen. Later, ‘wichcraft opened. We would carry all of the trays of pastries over each morning. In the beginning, they were all in a row along 19th street. That was great.

Tom Colicchio has made himself a notable icon, through both his restaurant accomplishments as well as Top Chef appearances. How is it working for such a critical Top judge?...
Tom is not a micromanager. He lets all of us make our own mistakes and figure out how to deal with them. Over the years, I have been able to pretty much do my own thing. That being said, he has an uncanny ability to spot the one thing in the kitchen that really did not come out right that day, and I have quite a complex about it. I always try to have him taste something else that is great after that happens. He doesn’t do it often, but when he tells me he doesn’t like something, I change it immediately.

Managing two pastry kitchens is tough when you can only be at one place at one time. How do you juggle the responsibilities?
At Craftbar, the desserts are plated by the garde manger. This has had its ups and downs, but the chef, Lauren Hirschberg, does a great job overseeing it. He cares about each plate that leaves the kitchen- desserts included. I have to trust him because I cannot be there most of the time. I spend my time at Craft, where we do all of the craftbar production along with everything for Craft.

As of late, we’ve seen a lot of shifting in pastry towards more savory flavors. What’s your take on this trendy transition?

Nancy Olson has traveled a long way from her hometown in Napoleon, North Dakota to her current mainstay as executive pastry chef at Gramercy Tavern.  With its unwavering devotion to bucolic compositions, this Danny Meyer haunt surely reeps the benefits of Olson's rural upbringing.  Nancy's father raised cattle, while her mother made jams and jellies from seasonal produce grown on their farm.  Her upbringing planted shaped a pastry career focused on the freshest, farm-grown ingredients.

At Gramercy Tavern, Nancy's signature desserts include the Grand Marnier mascarpone with a blood orange salad and a coconut tapioca with passion fruit caramel and cilantro syrup.  

Status: Single/Married/Divorced
Single – but attached to the most wonderful, supportive man!

What did you want to be when you grew up?
For a long time I really wanted to be a teacher. As a chef, I am constantly teaching my team in the kitchen, so I’m lucky that the two professions tie in together really well.

What was your first job in food?
My very first job doing anything with food was working at a supermarket deli during college. One of my responsibilities was cleaning and changing the oil for the chicken fryer – I went home after every shift smelling like fried chicken!

Growing up in North Dakota, you learned cooking from your mother and grandmother.  What favorite recipes do you attribute to your childhood?
Some of the desserts I created for Gramercy Tavern are inspired by my childhood, but rather than any specific recipe, I attribute more my attitude towards baking to my mother and grandmother. While my grandmother passed away before she could teach me how to bake, I remember we would always leave her home carrying loads of treats. She made huge batches of traditional German-Russian American pastries: kuchen, honey cookies, schlitz kuechla, fleischkuechla, ice knipfels, pumpkin blachinda, caramel rolls, rosettes, spritz and pfeffernusse cookies, raisin bread, potato buns, and kolacky. My mom followed suit and is a tremendous baker, so I definitely associate baking and pastries with family and love. I feel strongly that baking is an extension of my emotions – a way to say, “Here’s my heart on a plate.”

You began experimenting with pastry at The Fargo Country Club in ND. What were some of your best creations?...

48 hour marinades went out with afternoon naps in today's fast paced society. But that doesn't mean your meat should suffer: the Reveo MariVac Food Tumbler can do in ten minutes what a 2 day marinade would accomplish. The tumbler will even tenderize your meat as it absorbs your marinade. Maybe there is time after all for a few afternoon zzz's...

Reveo MariVac Food Tumbler

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Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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Too often the father of the house rules the BBQ, alienating himself from the party, banished from the beach, to cook up the afternoon steaks and burgers. But this Father's Day, give the gift of wireless technology: the Wireless Talking BBQ/Oven Thermometer will beep when your meat is cooked to your desired temperature - up to 330 feet away! So this year, invite dad to the conversation and let the wireless thermometer do the grilling work.

The Wireless Talking BBQ/Oven Thermometer

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For those interested in going green this summer, turn in your gas guzzling SUV for the 14 MPH Cooler. This cooler will drive your way from the house to the beach - up to 15 miles away - with the day's food and drink in tow.  Hold on to the handle bars to clutch the break, and rest your drink in the built-in cup holder.  Your days of juggling your chair, towel and lunch just got a whole lot easier.  We recommend packing it with a bottle of rosé, lobster salad and fresh berries...

The 14 M.P.H. Cooler

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If Memorial Day weekend didn't kick start your grilling season, this gizmo most certainly will.  The BBQ Branding Iron brands your charred meats so there's no more confusion as to who grilled what, or what hunk of meat belongs to you.  The Branding Iron has interchangeable letters, allowing for your steaks to be personalized, or even your chicken breasts to wish you a happy birthday.  You might as well stick a candle in your grilled chicken and forgo the sheet cake all together.

BBQ Branding Iron

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Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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With Memorial Day weekend just around the corner, many may be turning in their work suits for their swimsuits and heading to the beach.  Along with the cooler filled with sandwiches and soda, bring a bottle of wine and these Steady Sticks to enjoy while the waves come in.  Your chardonnay will stay sand-free as these sticks elevate your glasses and bottle, and give you a free hand to fly that kite that's been wrapped up all winter.

Steady Sticks

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Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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Here's to your next stress-free cocktail party: The Hot/Cold Serving Tray allows your hors d’oeuvres to stay warm or cool with no effort.  Just chill the tray or heat it up, and it will maintain its temperature for up to two hours.  Tepid appetizers are a thing of the past; here's to a hot and crispy pig in a blanket... if you can get your hand on one before they're gone.

Hot/Cold Serving Tray

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Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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