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April is Pastry Month

Green_mint_cake In honor of the largely unsung artists who create the divinely sweet endings to many of our perfect meals, we are celebrating some of the city’s finest pastry chefs throughout the month of April.  Many often work as diligently in the kitchen as the executive chefs, yet receive far less acclaim for their labors.  These confectionary experts will be featured in our weekly "Behind the Kitchen Doors" interviews.  We will also showcase their recipes in each Friday "Dining Out" feature.  Chefs on the recognition roster include Karen De Masco from Craft, Vera Tong from Dovetail and Richard Leach of Park Avenue Spring.  Also, look for detailed roundups throughout the month on everything from New York's Best Cookies to the  City's Finest Classic Desserts.  

Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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Raising the Bar on Organic Food - Free Foods NYC

Free_foods_nyc_3 You have to admire chef Matthew Kenney's unbridled enthusiasm for opening restaurants.  Though Heirloom and Blue/Green Organic Juice Cafe were both unsuccessful, Kenney seems to be making a comeback at Free Foods NYC.   With business partner Peter Schatzberg, Kenney has launched this organic answer to fast food - a quickly burgeoning trend in NYC.  Though this eatery is located in the heart of midtown, the space feels more like a Vermont country store.  Shelves are lined with organic sodas and wicker barrels are stocked with organic chocolates and chips. 

While the container (pictured right) may look like plastic, it's made entirely out of 100% sustainable, corn-based material.  Thus, I was quite skeptical that the food would transcend any "tastes good for healthy food" expectations.  Well, it does.  Free_foods_plastic_container In fact, the spice-rubbed filet mignon is excellent.  Juicy slivers of filet get wrapped around a sweet caramelized potato, all of which are finished with a tangy caper parsley pesto.  It's offered at the market table, which features a seasonally rotating selection of dishes, including salmon with shitake mushrooms and pomegranate seeds as well as farro pasta with fiery chicken, pancetta and fennel pollen.  Other than Moroccan-spiced carrots that had a slightly medicinal aftertaste, nearly every dish I sampled was tremendously flavorful and 100% organic.  Though Kenney seems to be rediscovering meat and fish, we noticed the vegan raw lasagna he launched at Pure Food & Wine has resurfaced here.

Free Foods NYC also features a soup station with a tasty roasted red pepper soup as well as a large roster of paninis, including a BBQ pork panini.  Skip the gluten free chickpea brownie and grab a chewy macadamia nut blondie spiked with maple sugar. 

Address: 18 West 45th St., btwn. 5th & 6th Aves.
Phone: (212)302-7195
Hours: Mon-Thu, 7a.m.-8p.m., Friday, 7a.m.- 5p.m.
www.freefoodsnyc.com

Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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Greenwich SteakNBurger Opens in Tribeca

Nysteaknburger Owner Stephen LoCastro has transformed what was formerly Tribeca Studio Deli into Greenwich SteakNBurger.  Don't be deceived by the name as LoCastro (Tre Scalini) to implement an American bistro menu with an impressive selection of gourmet burgers (ten to be exact) and homemade sauces. 

Highlights include a New Zealand lamb burger with smoked onions, Maryland crab burger, and Sicilian veal burger with sweet potato gnocchi.  There's also a sizeable bistro menu with a signature "NY steak tartar burger" appetizer, grilled skirt steak with coffee barbecue sauce as well as grilled salmon with balsamic reduction.

The 70-seat space is outfitted with cherry hardwood floors, iron chandeliers and Morroccan benches.  Come spring, Greenwich SteakNBurger will also offer al fresco sidewalk seating.

Address: 369 Greenwich St., corner of Franklin St.
Hours: Mon-Sat, 11a.m.-11p.m., Sun, 11.a.m.-9p.m.
Phone:
(212)625-1010

Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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2008 South Beach Wine & Food Festival

Bbq_6 In keeping with a seven-year tradition, swarms of foodies descended on South Beach for the 2008 Food Network South Beach Wine & Food festival this past weekend.  Rachel Ray, Emeril Lagasse, Bobby Flay and Giada DeLaurentis were on hand for the four-day long celebration. 

Vegetarians need not have attended this year's "Burger Bash" where guests dined on 17 unique renditions.  Though Radius of Boston officially beat out the competition, other noteworthy competitors included chef Laurent Tourondel (BLT) as well as chef Tim Love (Love Shack), who served up a flavorful patty topped with homemade pickles, bacon and the chef's signature "love" sauce.

The gluttony persisted the following evening at the "BubbleQ" with champagne and barbecue, prepared by Patrick Neely (Neely’s Bar-B-Que), Rick Bayless (Frontera Grill), and Kenny Callaghan (Blue Smoke) – to name only a few.  Bbqzak_pelaccio_3 Though it had little to do with barbecue, we were partial to Tyler Florence’s grilled calamari with fennel over a fava bean puree as well as Zak Pelaccio’s brisket-laced burger finished with kimchee  (pictured right.)

But the most sumptuous feast of the weekend was had by attendees at Mario Batali and Jamie Oliver’s “Fettucine and Fiorentina” with an array of steaks and homemade pastas, including a superb rib steaks and penne Bolognese.  The festivities continued late into the evening at Gianni Versace's mansion as guests mingled poolside.

Other highlights included a Jean-Georges Vongerichten tribute dinner and a tribute brunch recognizing chef Jamie Oliver's charitable work toward improving food standards in school systems across the globe. 

Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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City Bakery's Hot-Chocolate Festival

Good_hot_chocOn February 1st, City Bakery launches a month-long celebration of hot chocolate in all of its glorious variations. Though this Flatiron shop is praised year-round for its rich melted chocolate topped off with a homemade marshmallow, the 16th annual festival offers a rotating roster of additional flavors, from Caramel or Banana Peel to the Chili Pepper or even Beer varieties. Maury Rubin, owner of the City Bakery and Birdbath, admits he's partial to the bourbon hot chocolate, even issuing this rather curious and passionate statement: “The bourbon [hot chocolate] tastes like what a vintage Jaguar looks like going very fast.”  Alrighty then.  More importantly, we've received confirmation that there is indeed bourbon in this warm elixir, which begs the question: Will City Bakery be carding diners at the register?

Flavors can be ordered by the 4-ounce shot or the slightly more indulgent 10-ounce cup.  While the calendar won't officially be up-and-running until February 1st, a sneak peek revealed an exotic new flavor: Lemon-licorice. For more information, visit www.hotchocolatefestival.com.
 
City Bakery
Address: 3 West 18th St., btwn. 5th & 6th Aves.
Phone: (212) 366-1414

South Gate Readies - Now Taking Reservations

Rear_dining_banquette5_2 Chef Kerry Heffernan's (Eleven Madison Park, Mondrian) much-anticipated South Gate is readying for its mid-February debut.  Perhaps the flashiest thing to happen to Central Park South, the mirror-decked front bar with exposed glass bar shelves overlooks the park.  Formerly Cafe Botanica, South Gate will be a swanky showcase for Heffernan's American fusion cuisine.  A sneak peek at the menu reveals fanciful appetizers, featuring seared foie gras with pears, muscat and pear wafers as well as fatty albacore with eucalyptus, lemon zest and crisp garlic.  As for entrees, they'll include a roasted rack of monkfish with warm romano bean salad, and chianti vinaigrette and pork with cider, star anise, yellow leeks and kohlrabi bacon puree.  With the recent opening of Bar Boulud and Dovetail, dining uptown is getting more exciting by the minute.

Address: 154 Central Park South btwn. 6th & 7th Ave.
 
Phone: (212)484-5120
Opens: February 8th (Friday)

Grown Up Jell-O Shots

Dovetail_vodka_shots Though chef-owner John Fraser seems to be bucking the trend toward uber-casual dining at his new UWS American, Dovetail, his amuse-bouche is an unexpectedly playful gesture.  A haute spin on a Jell-O shot, a spoonful of vodka gelee arrives topped with salmon roe, fried capers and a dab of sour cream.  It's the perfect ice breaker and nearly frisky teaser of the meal to come.  It's too soon to tell whether the UWS neighborhood will appreciate Fraser's sense of humor, but it reflects the constantly evolving tradition of the amuse-bouche: originated in France, it literally translates to "mouth amusement."

While it can often be a tool of showmanship, even a Frenchman like chef Laurent Tourondel takes a whimsical approach at BLT Market, which I formally reviewed toward the end of last year.  It may inhabit the Ritz-Carlton, but that isn't stopping Tourondel from welcoming diners with a gussied-up pig in a blanket.  Of course, it's a sophisticated yet tongue-in-cheek riff on a notably American hors d'oeuvre.

As for Dovetail's grown up Jell-O shot, Fraser may want to consider a sweet variation to bookend the meal...and ease diners into their check. 

Address: 103 West 77th Street, nr. Colombus Ave.
Phone: (212)362-3800

Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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Astor Center Launch

Kitchenaction A unique hub devoted to all things food and wine, Astor Center officially opens its doors Monday, January 14th.  It's one thing to sit in Gramercy Tavern's dining room and marvel over what Michael Anthony does behind kitchen doors, but now the gastronomically-obsessed can learn from the chef himself over a five-course dinner with other experts on sustainable and Greenmarket affairs. 

Astor Center offers a bounty of classes from top sommeliers, mixologists and chefs from around the country on everything from scotch & chocolate pairing to pig parts with Zak Pelaccio and Josh Ozersky, Cutlets in the flesh.  Spotted Pig fanatics can even learn the secret to April Bloomfield's burger from the woman herself.

www.astorcenternyc.com
Address: 399 Lafayette St., at 4th St.
Phone: (212)674-7501

Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
**Don't forget to subscribe for Restaurant Girl's Weekly Newsletter**

Cafe Notte - Wifi meets Wine

Cafe_notte_2What was formerly DTUT has been radically transformed into this sleek wifi cafe meets wine bar on the Upper East Side.  Owners Steven Salsberg and Nikola Camaj (who also owns Erminia on the UES) have partnered up to launch this "socially and environmentally" correct lounge this Monday, January 14th. 

Cafe Notte's casual menu will feature organic coffees as well as greenmarket and artisanally-bent fare, including a harvest salad, handmade granola, salmon carpaccio and housemade mozzarella.  There will also be a lengthy selection of wines, charcuterie and cheeses available throughout the day. 

An interesting venture to say the least, it's anyone's guess how the neighborhood will take to emailing over swiss cheese fondue and a bottle of Merlot. 

Address: 1626 Second Ave., btwn 84th & 85th Sts.
Phone: (212)288-5203
Hours: 7 days a week, 7 a.m.-2p.m.

Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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The Revival of dona

Anthos_owner_donatella_arpaia_and_c After investing considerable time and money into transforming Bellini into dona, co-owners Donatella Arpaia and Michael Psilakis lost their midtown lease and were forced to close after only nine months. Though it was a devastating loss, the two have seized the opportunity to reinvent the restaurant as a casual, Greek-inflected Italian with significantly pared-down prices.  While they haven't officially settled on the name - they're toying with mia dona and casa dona - its new home will be 206 East 58th Street between 2nd & 3rd Avenues. 

"I wanted to stay midtown.  That's my clientele," Arpaia tells us.  "The new location feels homey, like a rustic townhouse.  It has a library, living room, and lounge."  While dona has shed its yellow & white color palette for earth tones, Arpaia has kept the zebra-striped carpet to decorate the floors in both the living room and library, and the porcelain plates will now hang from wood paneled walls.  "We really wanted to something more informal and affordable this time around," Arpaia states. 

As Arpaia readies the front of the house, Psilakis focuses his energies on editing the menu.  "I've never written so many dishes for a menu in my life," Psilakis tells us.  "Now it will just be a function of cooking in that space.  I don't know what it will be like to stand on the line in our new kitchen." 

Psilakis continues excitedly, "I've never had any influences because I've never worked in someone else's kitchen, so everything I create really is my own.   It gives me the freedom.  I have no rules because I wasn't classically trained.  Dona will be Italian at its soul with hints of Greek and Spanish cooking.  It's going to be a menu that bridges the gap between all the restaurants I've done.  It will definitely be lighter, seasonally-oriented fare; pastas, antipasti and family-style plates for two."

Address: 206 East 58th Street, btwn. 2nd & 3rd Aves.
Phone: TBD

Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
**Don't forget to subscribe for Restaurant Girl's Weekly Newsletter**

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