Elettaria
A hip stage for modern American with an Indian edge. 33 W. Eighth St., near MacDougal (212) 677-3833 Dinner, Mon.-Sun., 5:30 p.m.-11:30 p.m. CUISINE Indian-inflected American VIBE Hip Village haunt OCCASION Bar dining; downtown date DON’T-MISS DISH Crispy pig’s feet; fried quail. PRICE Appetizers, $9-16; entrees, $18-25; desserts, $7. RESERVATIONS Recommended From the looks of it, you would never know there is a well-trained chef hustling in the kitchen at Eletteria, a restaurant that just debuted in Greenwich Village. Floating doors, cropped paintings and a fake staircase suggest a funhouse for frivolous culinary affairs. So does the audience, a hip, young crowd who tend to flock to the newest restaurants for sport. But a deep-fried quail suggests serious pleasures. When skin this crisp gives way to such wondrously sweet meat, you don’t debate the merits of frying. It’s perfectly...
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