363 Greenwich St. (btwn. Harrison & Franklin Sts.)
CODE.TV at Devin Tavern (with Restaurant Girl)
Savory NY video
Having successfully branded themselves onto beef with Dylan Prime Steakhouse, Michael Waterhouse and John Mautone (Drink Tank Restaurant Group) have set out to expand their Tribeca empire and culinary repertoire with their newest venture, Devin Tavern. With chef Christopher Dunn in the driver’s seat, the rustic New American menu breaths new and inspired life into classic continental fare. Trimmed with comfy camel banquettes, brick walls, and candle-lit sconces, the space evokes a definitively masculine feel, impressive enough for a testosterone-filled business dinner, yet somehow cozy enough for a date.
A master mixologist himself, co-owner Michael Waterhouse, celebrates the old-fashioned cocktail, concocting seasonal spins on the tried and true Manhattan, Sidecar & Clover Club. My hands-down favorite; the inventive Pepper basil caipirinha raises the bar with an unusual fresh basil and white pepper kick.
Overwhelmed by the precariously oversized menu, I was happily rescued by an attentive waiter, who steered me in the right direction. I had trouble keeping my end of the deal when it came to sharing a fluffy, but luscious sweet corn soufflé, which came gloriously crashing down in a thick rush of savory lobster bisque, poured tableside, into the center. The mushroom flan cushioned the blow of having to part ways with the soufflé. Worthy competition, the delicate wild mushroom flan was nicely balanced by a rich moat of demi-glace. Tragically, the Tribeca chowder paled in comparison; a tomato-heavy broth overburdened by potatoes and carrots, which drowned out the few cockles and clams it had to show for itself.
Sadly, the chit wood grilled artic char was also amiss. While the broccoli rabe and white bean puree were fine accompaniments, a full-bodied veal reduction sauce overtook the bland fish. Then the veal cordon bleu arrived – wrapped in a rich ham, slathered in a melted aged cheddar and mornay sauce – it was a decadent and worthy endeavor. And you can’t go wrong with the classic lobster club: exceptionally moist and succulent lobster, stuffed between three slices of fresh country bread.
Definitely save room for dessert and forget your manners, finger-licking is an absolute must when it comes to the chocolate-covered potato chips – generous slices of homemade, waffle-cut potato chips, dunked liberally in bittersweet chocolate, then dotted with candied nuts and dried fruit. If you can manage to squeeze in one more toothsome bite, make it the apple cake – spicy apple slices sitting atop a moist vanilla cake with a supremely creamy vanilla bean ice cream.
A welcome relief from the overly fussy gastronomic fare of late, I could live on the sweet corn soufflé and salty chocolate potato chips alone.
Until we eat again,