Last Licks of Summer 2014
Okay, so Labor Day has sadly and all too quickly come and gone. But luckily, summer’s not over just yet, which is why an edible “In Memoriam” seems fairly appropriate. Corn. Tomatoes. Peaches. Peas. Watermelon. Lobster. Squash. We hardly knew you. Sigh.
So before the choice picks at the Greenmarket become apples, sweet potatoes and kale, get your final licks of summer by indulging in these vibrant restaurant dishes, highlighting the very best that the season has (sniff, almost had!) to offer…
Bâtard
Marcus Glocker is drawing raves for his thoughtful, approachable fare at Bâtard, Drew Nieporent’s latest incarnation of his long held, Tribeca space. We were already duly won over by the Maine Lobster with asparagus, zucchini blossoms and citrus rind earlier in the season, and now there are even more summery dishes to savor… try the Chilled Corn Soup with Scallops and apple balsamic, and the Poached Stone Fruits with candied pistachios and lemon-thyme ice cream.
Read MoreÉlan
Okay, so maybe General Tso’s Sweetbreads and Foie Gras Lollipops don’t immediately scream summer. But the menu at élan, David Waltnuck’s anticipated return to the NY dining scene, is dotted with all sorts of other, hyper-seasonal gems, such as Tomato Watermelon Gazpacho with lobster and crisp ham, Zucchini Blossoms with tomato confit and lemon crème fraiche, and Fried South Bay Oysters with ginger mignonette.
Read MoreBarchetta
As far as we’re concerned, summer and seafood are indelibly intertwined, so if you’re looking for one last shellfish splurge, head straight to Dave Pasternack’s Barchetta. Needless to say, this isn’t beach shack fare, but you’d be hard-pressed to find more elegantly executed crudos, such as Wild King Salmon with Maine blueberries, small plates, including Rhode Island Red Shrimp Skewers with prosciutto and watermelon, and seafaring entrees, including Louisiana Redfish paired with peaches and saba.
Read MoreCherche Midi
Committed more to comfy French bistro staples than staunch seasonality, there are nevertheless a number of don’t-miss summer dishes at Keith McNally’s new Bowery hotspot. Take the juicy Heirloom Tomato Salad, intriguingly paired with avocado, wild mint and hearts of palm, and the succulent Roasted Chicken Breast, plated with baby leeks, floury nubbins of gnocchi, and exquisite, musky morels.
Read MoreClaudette
Ratatouille is often described as the essence of summer, cooked down into one deeply savory, utterly unctuous stew. And the charming new West Village brasserie, Claudette, from the Rosemary team, re-imagines the fabulous Provencal staple (tomatoes, zucchini, eggplant and herbs), as a filling for a delectable tart, layered into a delicate, flaky pate brisee.
Read MoreDelaware and Hudson
Pete Wells recently sang the praises of this Williamsburg newcomer, owned by Alto and i Trulli alum, Patti Jackson. And he rightfully singled out the Green Tomato Pie on her current, all-tomato prix fixe menu. It won’t win any beauty contests, but the appealingly rustic wedge is all about flavor; tangy slices of acidic, dun-colored tomatoes kissed with molasses, and layered between two buttery, handmade crusts.
Read MoreThe Gorbals
While many of the dishes at Ilan Hall’s L.A. to Brooklyn transplant are decidedly kooky (Schnitzel with the hooves still on? Whaaat?), he knows better than fuss too much with perfect summer ingredients. Take the Roasted Corn with pimenton butter, Monkfish Cheeks paired with watermelon and radishes, and the eye-poppingly green “Peas Many Ways,” comprised of grilled snow peas, pea tendrils, pea and miso puree and dehydrated pea dust (ok, so he sometimes fusses just a little bit).
Read MorePacifico’s Fine Foods
Having worked for farm-to-table guru, Peter Hoffman, for over ten years, you better believe that Shanna Pacifico knows her way around a Greenmarket. And the current menu at her Brazilian-accented Brooklyn spot is an ode to the summer season — from Blistered English Peas in the Pod and a refreshing Ceviche of the Day, to a toothsome tomato relish and zucchini blossom-topped Pappardalle, made with wide ribbons of crunchy summer squash.
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