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Mesa Coyoacan

  • Cuisine: Mexican
  • Vibe: Laid-back chic
  • Occasion: Group dinner, communal dining, neighborhood bites
  • Don’t Miss: Tacos de suadero, enchiladas de mole, churros
  • Price: Appetizers, $8; entrées, $14; desserts, $4.50
  • Reservations: Accepted only for six or more
  • Phone: (718) 782-8171
  • Location: 372 Graham Ave., between Skillman Ave. and Conselyea St., Brooklyn

It’s hard to find a good black mole sauce, but Garcia’s is
phenomenally flavorful. It’s a 37-ingredient mole that requires its own
chef and includes six types of chiles, Mexican chocolate, almonds and
cinnamon. I highly recommend the enchiladas de mole – moist chicken
bathing in smoky-sweet sauce, rolled up in a thick tortilla and crowned
with crema fresca, avocado, onion and sesame seeds. There’s also $7
tamale trio with shredded chicken and black mole wrapped in a corn
husk.

There are a few hiccups on the menu. Skip the ceviches,
both were ruined by a watery tomato salsa. The grilled whole snapper
was dry and poorly matched with a lump of guacamole and a cold cactus
salad. And all three salads arrived way overdressed.

There’s a small but well-edited wine list and a great Michelada, a lime-spiked beer served in a spice-rimmed glass.

For
dessert, I love the churros, which come with a rich chocolate and milky
caramel dipping sauce. There’s also homemade strawberry ice pops spiced
with chile de arbol, and cinnamon-flavored horchata.

Mesa
Coyoacan’s been open only a month, and it’s already crowded with repeat
customers. We have tons of great ethnic food in New York. But to be
honest, we could use a few more good Mexican restaurants like this one.

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