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Our Favorite Cold-Weather Pastas in New York

v1.4In all honestly, we could probably eat pasta three meals a day, seven days a week and 365 days a year.  But in reality, we tend to indulge our penchant for unapologetic carb loading mostly in the wintertime, so we can hide the side effects under bulky coats and billowy sweaters.  So before spring induces us all to start shedding those layers, don’t miss the chance to try some of the very best pasta dishes around — from the hearty Red Wine Lumache at Bar Primi to the cloudlike Chestnut Gnocchi at Via Carota and much more.

Bar Primi

Bar Primi
325 Bowery
Bowery,New York 10003
(212) 220-9100

This casual Andrew Carmellini trattoria is actually dedicated to pasta, so how could it not make our list?  Indeed, it’s a veritable noodle-lovers heaven, serving classic dishes, like Spaghetti Pomodoro, Bucatini Amatriciana and Calamarata Frutti di Mare, seasonal variations, such as Orecchiette with kale and celery root, Rigatoni with pancetta and cabbage, and Red Wine Lumache (large shells) with pork ragu, and even a breakfast option; Spaghetti served with kale, pancetta and a poached egg.

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All’Onda

All’Onda
22 East 13th Street
Union Square,New York 10003
(212) 231-2236

Although Chris Jaeckle offers all manner of Venetian delicacies at All’Onda, there’s a reason the Union Square restaurant has become indelibly associated with Bucatini and Smoked Uni.  Like thick spaghetti with a hole in the middle, the housemade noodles are perfect for soaking up the umami bomb of a sauce (an emulsion of dashi parmesan stock, lemon, garlic, cream and cherrywood-smoked Maine uni), before being tossed with flat leaf parsley and Calabrian oil-toasted breadcrumbs.

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Via Carota

Via Carota
51 Grove St
West Village,New York 10014
(212) 255-1962

This utterly charming collaboration between West Village darlings, Jody Williams (Buvette) and Rita Sodi (I Sodi), specializes in effortlessly elegant Italian small plates and pastas.  And the current offerings are especially well suited to winter, including plump Pumpkin Tortelli, Roasted Vegetable Lasagna, and feathery Gnocchi flavored with pleasantly pungent gorgonzola.

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Upland

Upland
345 Park Avenue S.
New York 10010
(212) 686-1006

Justin Smillie’s Park Avenue spot may be inspired by perennially balmy California, but soul-warming dishes such as Fusilli al Peposo are the ultimate antidote to bitter New York winters.  Deliciously combining the cold weather comforts of both rib-sticking pasta and steamy stew, chewy fusilli is ladled with hunks of black pepper-rubbed beef and roasted tomatoes, and cut by a dash of brightly acidic verjus (the pressed juice of unripened grapes).

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The Clam

The Clam
420 Hudson Street
West Village,New York 10014
(212) 242-7420

It only stands to reason that a restaurant entirely focused on clams (i.e., raw, stuffed, fried and in chowder) should have a mean Spaghetti and Clams dish on the menu.  And Mike Price’s West Village eatery definitely doesn’t disappoint, offering housemade, al dente pasta cooked in clam broth, tossed with crushed tomatoes, top neck clams and (believe it or not), soy, and finished off with green onions and a sprightly arugula salad, dressed with citrus vinaigrette.

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Semilla

Semilla
160 Havemeyer St
Williamsburg,New York 11211
(718) 782-3474

If you’re looking for all of the satisfaction and none of the guilt that comes with eating wheat and egg-based pasta, check out the ingenious noodles crafted at the veggie-focused Brooklyn hot spot, Semilla.  The toothsome ribbons of tagliatelle are actually shaved coils of aromatic celery root, the flavor heightened even further with crunchy buckshots of celery seed.

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Masseria Dei Vini

Masseria Dei Vini
887 9th Ave
Hell's Kitchen,New York 10019
(212) 315-2888

A welcome addition to Columbus Circle’s lackluster dining scene, this little sister to La Masseria Ristorante has a real way with pastas, adding clever flourishes to Southern Italian classics, such as Cavatelli with seafood and pea puree, Spinach Gnocchi with radicchio and taleggio, and Agnolotti Piemontesi; veal-stuffed half moons of delicate ravioli, sauced with a mix of musky wild mushrooms.

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Cooklyn

Cooklyn
659 Vanderbilt Ave
Prospect Heights,New York 11238
(347) 915-0721

Usually, we are adamantly against taking an ingredient as supremely delicate and utterly luxurious as lobster, and sublimating it in a gooey casserole of noodles, cream and cheese.  But Cooklyn chef Anthony Theocaropoulos — who worked on the opening teams at both Eataly and Ai Fiori — uses a delicate hand (not to mention lots of lobster) in his outrageously decadent dish; tender swirls of fusilli garnished with nutty breadcrumbs and a soft-poached egg.

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