Q & A with Drew Nieporent

There are a lot of seasoned restaurateurs in this town, but few as versatile as Drew Nieporent.  That’s why he named his company Myriad Restaurant Group.  Nieporent’s accomplishments include cuisine from sushi at the world-famous Nobu to Mexican at Centrico.  His most recent venture was also a huge risk.  Opening an upscale French restaurant in this economy isn’t exactly a sure thing.  But Nieporent and chef Paul Liebrandt pulled it off.

Not exactly what you’d expect from a guy who once worked at McDonald’s.  His key to success was a crucial understanding of quality and service at spots like Tavern on the Green, Le Perigord and La Grenouille.   In 1985, Nieporent opened Montrachet followed by Tribeca Grill in 1990 then Nobu in 1994.  Somehow, he still finds time for charity work, recognized this year at C-CAP’s annual fundraiser. On another note, Nieporent not a fan of “the pig on the altar” craze or the “reinvetion of the burger.” 

Single/Married/Divorced?
I’ve been married to my wife Ann for 23 years and have two wonderful children.

What did you want to do when you grew up?
Exactly what I am doing now.

What was your first job in food?  What was did you learn lesson from that experience?
My first job was with McDonald’s as a Quarter-Pounder grill man.  I learned a fantastic system of quality, service and cleanliness.

You’re a fixture in the NYC food world with a long, storied rise.  What did you learn from people like Warner Leroy and why the leap from Tavern on the Green to French classics like La Grenouille?
Warner Leroy at the Tavern on the Green taught me how to serve a large volume of people all while working with a quality kitchen. The French restaurants taught me refinement and the importance of personal service.

What was the impetus behind your involvement in Nobu?
Robert De Niro had eaten Nobu’s food in Los Angeles at Matsuhisa and we had just opened Tribeca Grill to great success in 1990.  I was the catalyst in making the deal in New York work and bringing all of the resources together to open the first Nobu. I knew in my gut that it would be a big hit.

You recently opened Corton in the old Montrachet space.  What prompted such a dramatic change as far as space and concept?
Change is painful yet ever necessary. The time had come to relinquish the old world charm of Montrachet and bring it into its current modern setting.

Was it difficult to let go of Montrachet and take a risk on Corton, considering the economy during opening?
It was very, very difficult and certainly more complicated due to the conditions of the economy.  But it was something that I knew would work.

You’ve got a number of very diverse restaurants in the Myriad empire.  What inspires the variety, boredom? 
Our name is Myriad for a reason. Our ideas are endless and countless. My goal was not to cookie-cut one idea, but to be creative and open many things, which we have done. It’s not about boredom, it’s about creativity and challenging yourself.

How did you go about hiring a chef for Corton?
Paul Liebrandt and I have been speaking on and off for many years, so it was always in the back of my mind to do something with him. The time was right and it just felt right to do it in the Montrachet space.

What kind of control and input do you have in Corton’s kitchen?  Did you collaborate with Paul Liebrandt or let him run with the menu?
Paul and I have a professional partnership. He is not only our chef, but he is my partner.  I do not tell him what to do, nor do I control his ideas, his recipes or his cooking. That really wouldn’t work well. Our collaboration is based on respect and give and take. He has total autonomy over the menu.

After all these years, you’re still working the front of the house, delivering dishes to diners.   Do you feel the industry has shifted back in that direction? Do you love it or hate it? 
I joke that it’s the new economy!  But, my approach has always been hands-on and if that means delivering food or bussing a table, I’m perfectly happy and willing to do that.

Your restaurants have won their share of recognition over the years (everything from the New York Times to Food & Wine to the James Beard Foundation).   What factors and people have been critical to your success?
We always try to work with the best and the brightest people and nurture loyalty. At the end of the day, talent is key, but the character of a person is more important to us.

In addition to the restaurants winning awards, you’ve received a lot of recognition for your humanitarian work, including awards from C-CAP and the James Beard Foundation.  How did you become involved in the charities you support?  Have you managed to get other restaurateurs involved in these organizations?
We’re involved with dozens of charities such as Citymeals on Wheels, Taste of the Nation and, of course, C-CAP and the James Beard Foundation. The restaurant industry is very generous in their support of charitable and community organizations. And we always try to involve the entire restaurant community in contributing to all of these various charities.

It’s not easy opening a successful restaurant, never mind many of them.  What do you think the formula or philosophy for success in this industry is?
Obviously there is no formula other than following your gut instincts, which are derivative of your life experiences and taste. For something to work, it has to appeal to a mass audience, but for me to get excited by it, it also has to involve exceptional people and a clear, focused goal as to what you’re trying to deliver.

Where do you see the future of the industry?  Restaurants, trends, cuisines and how we dine over the next ten years?
The good news is that food quality has increased – even in casual restaurants. The diffi

cult news is that newer restaurants tend to be small, crowded, and noisy.  The focus is on the mood, not the food. I would hope that the future is that we can blend great food with a comfortable environment.

What advice would you give aspiring restaurateurs?
Be generous with your customers and your staff and set the correct example by working hard.

Where do you go for a great meal on your nights off (not your own restaurants)?
I love Chinatown and Little Italy as they’re our neighbors, but I’m always happy to be in a colleague’s restaurant and to enjoy and observe.

Do you cook?
I love to cook.

What culinary trends do you embrace?
None. I believe the word “trend” is contrary to my approach I believe we’ve been in front of the trends and the proof is in the pudding.

What culinary trends do you wish would just die already?
The reinvention of the hamburger and the idea of the pig on the altar.

Do you have a favorite dish on the menu at Corton and/or Nobu?
I believe my favorite dishes are the signatures of each restaurant. ‘From the Garden’ at Corton and the Yellowtail Jalapeño at Nobu.

Do you have a least favorite at both (and yes, you must choose one)?
At Nobu, my least favorite is tempura. At Corton, my least favorite is the scallop dish we no longer serve.

Any new projects on the horizon? 
Dozens!

Corton

239 W. Broadway
(212) 219-2777
http://myriadrestaurantgroup.com/corton/index.html