Emmy‘s Detroit-style squares may be the most notable new addition to Brooklyn’s pizza scene, but the across-the-bridge expansion of the borough’s own Speedy Romeo — not to mention its St. Louis-inspired pies — is definitely the most exciting Manhattan development of late.
One of the city’s most distinguished out-of-the-box pizza purveyors, the Clinton Hill-based eatery recently opened a outpost on the Lower East Side, bringing old favorites, like the “St. Louie” (sausage, pepperoni and housemade provel cheese), the “Dick Dale” (speck, pineapple and scallions), and the “KC Royale” (clams, pancetta and kale) with them.
Outfitted with reclaimed windows, movie theatre benches from the Czech Republic, and an old liquor sign from just across the street, the funky, 50-seat space is anchored by a wood-burning oven, painted to resemble Eddie Van Halen’s guitar. Which — just like at its predecessor — is used to cook literally everything on the menu, from Octopus drizzled with hazelnut romesco, Caesar Salad spritzed with lemon, and Artichokes dotted with sesame croutons and mint, to Whole Branzino flavored with fennel, a Cheeseburger doused in “Speedy Sauce,” Chicken Parm (actually comprising half a chicken) and a Dry-Aged Ribeye for Two.
Needless to say, it’s also responsible for turning out those quirky, thin-crusted pizzas, including signature Lower East Side additions, like the “Paul’s Boutique” (yes, named after the record by the Beastie Boys). An edible homage to their new neighborhood, the pie features Katz’s pastrami, smoked sauerkraut, mustard béchamel and fontina, layered on an everything crust. And since Speedy’s newest establishment actually has a liquor license as well (the original only serves wine and beer) even cocktails are put to the flame, grouped under “Smoking” (the “Diver Down” has rye, vermouth, amaro and a brûléed cinnamon stick) and “Non”(try the “Meadowland” with gin, elderflower, maraschino, lemon, grapefruit, and orange zest).
It looks like Brooklynites may have real incentive to actually cross the bridge into Manhattan.
63 Clinton St., New York, NY 10002