What’s that we said about poke pushing out ceviche as 2016’s raw(ish) fish du jour? The just-opened Wisefish has all but made our case about the on-trend Hawaiian dish, serving made-to-order bowls from a blue-tiled space in Chelsea.
Taking its cue from another happening movement (the Chipotle-style mix-and-match, which has found its way to numerous fast-casual spots around the city), customers at the new and notably casual, Wisefish, pick and choose from an array of bases, proteins, sauces and toppings, in order to construct their ideal meal (rather reasonably priced for sustainable, sushi-grade fish, at $7.95 for a “snack” size, $10.95 for regular, and $13.95 for large).
Instead of staple starches like white or brown rice, or a wan tumble of mixed greens, your best bet here is to start with a cushion of shaved zucchini noodles — which add a jolt of freshness while still standing up to the considerable weight of their toppings. Hard to believe at a poke joint, but a top-layer of tofu is actually an option — one we beg you not to consider, considering the eatery’s primary purveyor is the first-rate Greenpoint Fish & Lobster. That leaves you with ruby cubes of Ahi Tuna, traditionally tossed with sweet onion, hijiki seaweed and scallions (or perhaps, augmented with tobiko, edamame, and wasabi avocado cream), or rosy, tender-fleshed Salmon — tingly with jalapeno and bathed in citrus shoyu, or maybe studded with cucumber and sea beans, and glommed in spicy mayo.
With their Draconian fish-freezing edict, the DOH may have already irreparably damaged the state of NYC’s sushi — but now that Wisefish is around, they better keep their mitts off our perfectly marinated poke.