City Guide: Best of Paris
I’ll be honest: I’ve never been tempted to leave New York City. I mean it’s a pretty exciting place to live and to eat. As I’ve said many times before, you can literally eat anywhere in the world right here in New York. And of all the places I’ve traveled to over the course of my life, I’ve never been tempted to stray from Manhattan, that is until I lived in Paris for two glorious months.
Wandering the gorgeous and curiously clean streets, and perfectly manicured gardens and parks of Paris makes you wonder why the hell we don’t all get on a plane and move to the city of love. And not just for love or for beauty, but mostly and most importantly (to me anyway), for food! Paris is a foodie’s paradise.
It’s a paradise for freshly baked, wondrously flaky croissants, for warm, crispy-edged crepes filled with deliciously unpasteurized cheese and farm eggs with fluorescent orange yolks (the way they should be!), for dense, rich foie gras slathered on toasted baguettes, and for nutty, yellow butter smeared on anything and everything. Lest I forget the souffles, the moist, fluffy quiches, the deeply flavored cassoulet, the sublimely stinky and soft cheeses, pain du chocolat, and the peerless chocolates.
I wish it weren’t so heavenly (because practically speaking, I won’t be moving permanently anytime soon), but it is. (C’est la vie.) Paris is like living in a museum, except the food’s so alive. What I learned while playing house in the Marais is that some of the best things I put in my mouth, the best bites I took, were not just from haute, fancy spots, but also from neighborhood bakeries (boulangeries, as they call them), cheese shops (fromageries) and chocolatiers. Of course, Alain Passard’s legendary Arpege was unforgettable (and yes, worth the ticket and fight for a table), and so was Spring and Yamtcha, but I’m more surprised at how exciting the outdoor food markets, the no-frills creperies, and grungy falafel joints are.
If you’re heading to Paris for three days, a week, or forever (I’m jealous), here’s my guide to the Best Restaurants Paris in the most delicious city in the world. And we’ll be adding new places every week…
Heard of the impossible reservation that is Septime? Well, owners chef Bertrand Grébaut and Théo Pourriat’s recently opened a no-reservations spot (yes, there is hope!) right next door. ...Read More
When I think of French food, I think of creamy sauces, rich reductions, and decadent meats. Vegetarian fare? Now, that's not something I'd ever associate with France.
But I recently had...Read More
Most of us don't have the luxury to pick up and spend two, three weeks, or even a month in another country. (I'm still not sure how I pulled off six weeks in Paris, but I won't look a gift horse in...Read More
Sick of eating French food in France? Hey, it happens. Though it's an exemplary cuisine, it's also a decadent one, and sometimes you just need a break, which is what compelled my husband and I to...Read More
If you've spent time traveling abroad, I'm sure you've realized it isn't exactly the easiest thing to make dinner reservations on your own, what with country codes and different time zones. Never...Read More
Wander by Le Chateaubriand and you'd never guess it was one of the top fifty restaurants in the world, at least according to San Pellegrino's annual list. In fact, it ranked number nine in 2009,...Read More
The thing about dining in Paris nowadays is that there are so many modern French restaurants that it's hard to find a traditional, fine French one. You know, the kind that features Quenelles, Frog...Read More
You can't go to Paris and not eat crepes. Quelle sacrilege! After all, crepes are one of France's most beloved street foods, and one of the world's greatest hangover remedies. (Well, it's...Read More
There's a new school of, well, new restaurants in Paris that all seem a lot alike, so I was worried Saturne would feel like deja vu. (A little like Spring, a little like Bones and Roseval.) But...Read More
Talk about an underrated restaurant: Not once did anyone mention Rech when recommending restaurants to visit in Paris. That's a mistake.
I make to sure hit up Rech every time I head to Paris...Read More
As a foodie, I've always wanted to eat at Astrance. It's one of those great dining legends you hear about, hoping one day you'll get to experience the magic for yourself. Pascal Barbot &...Read More
Cuisine: Middle Eastern
You don't exactly think of fallafel when you think of Paris, but the city of love just happens to house one of the best fallafel shops in the world. (Even better than the fallafel in Israel!)...Read More
Some restaurants have that certain magic you can't quite put into words. You know, one of those spots that everyone wants to not only see and be seen, but also wants to eat at. That's not an...Read More
If you're looking for an old school brasserie to sup on oysters and Chablis, Le Dome in Montparnasse is a fine idea. (Ernest Hemingway and Henry Miller made a regular habit of Le Dome.) With...Read More
You wouldn't expect to find a boulangerie in the heart of the Marais named after the first Jewish woman to serve in the United States Congress. But there's nothing American about this shop, easily...Read More
"We could be anywhere but Paris," my dining companion uttered as we sat down to dinner at Bones. In fact, it feels more like Bushwick, Brooklyn than Paris, France. The servers all speak English...Read More
Full disclosure: I'm not a big fan of the whole molecular gastronomy trend not just in France, but at-large (though I'm more than happy to be proven wrong and I most definitely (and thankfully) am...Read More
Marché President Wilson is proof that outdoor markets don't have to be so 'rough and tumble' so to speak. In fact, this one on the rather luxe Avenue President Wilson, just across from the Seine...Read More
There is no shortage of outdoor food markets in Paris, that's for sure, but some are way better than others, and Marché Bastille happens to be my favorite. Why? Because there's so much variety....Read More
Planning a visit to the famed Sacré-Couer in Montmartre? There aren't a lot of great dining options in this neck of the woods, aside from Le Coq Rico. If you want to cross Roast Chicken, the...Read More
What was once an orphanage for children in the 16th century -- orphans who were dressed in red, thus the Enfants Rouges part of the name -- morphed (all the way back in 1615) into one of the funkiest...Read More
I’ve eaten more than my fair share of tarte tatin in France and beyond, and I simply can’t find one that comes close to Yannick Alleno’s take at Terroir Parisien at the Palais Brongniart, near...Read More
What can I say? Croissants just taste better in Paris. I think it's the superiority of the butter they have, which is divinely rich and smooth.
There are so many gloriously flaky specimens to...Read More
Sometimes a restaurant can play a part. Some make you feel cool and in the know, while others make you feel sexy and in the mood. Le Grand Vefour makes you feel like a fancy Frenchmen (or women),...Read More
The room itself is almost worth a visit to this stylish haunt adjacent to the Hotel Le Thomieux in the 7th arrondissement. Really, all French brasseries should look this fabulous at 90 something...Read More
One glance at Cafe De Musees and you'll wonder why it always seems so packed. As far as looks go, it's on the uglier side of the spectrum. (Just saying.) It's located in the Marais, just a...Read More
The reason you don't read more about this boulangerie is because no one really knows the actual name of this underrated bakery. Some people call it Boulangerie 28 (which refers to its street...Read More
Ever since Bertrand Auboyneau opened Bistrot Paul Bert, Rue Paul Bert has become somewhat of a dining destination. His latest venture Le 6 Paul Bert, named after its address, is located just...Read More
Maybe I'm biased because I lived just a few floors above this cafe, but Carette is a great pit stop when you find yourself in the Marais. Would I go out of my way to eat here or dub it a...Read More
Think there's only one Brooklyn or downtown LA? Think again. There's a young and hip generation of chefs striking off on their own to make their mark on the Paris dining scene. Since they haven't...Read More
Lebanese in Paris? You'd be surprised how much ethnic food there is to eat in this beautiful city. Moroccan, Vietnamese, Japanese, Thai, and lots of Lebanese. If you need a night off from...Read More
It's hard to find a great neighborhood spot that you want to return to again and again. Especially for someone like me who loves to try new things and new places. Which is why I'm such a fan of...Read More
Cuisine: Food Market
Maybe this market was overhyped to me because I didn't think much of it, at least in comparison to the other outdoor markets the city has to offer. Then again, I'm more concerned with excellent...Read More
The Mousse au Chocolat is reason enough to make a pit stop at this buzzy neighborhood spot in the Marais. Do not pass go without the mousse. Because what arrives at the table is an enormous bowl...Read More