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City Guide: Best of Paris

cheeseI’ll be honest: I’ve never been tempted to leave New York City.  I mean it’s a pretty exciting place to live and to eat.  As I’ve said many times before, you can literally eat anywhere in the world right here in New York.  And of all the places I’ve traveled to over the course of my life,  I’ve never been tempted to stray from Manhattan, that is until I lived in Paris for two glorious months.

Wandering the gorgeous and curiously clean streets, and perfectly manicured gardens and parks of Paris makes you wonder why the hell we don’t all get on a plane and move to the city of love.  And not just for love or for beauty, but mostly and most importantly (to me anyway), for food!  Paris is a foodie’s paradise.

savorycrepeIt’s a paradise for freshly baked, wondrously flaky croissants, for warm, crispy-edged crepes filled with deliciously unpasteurized cheese and farm eggs with fluorescent orange yolks (the way they should be!), for dense, rich foie gras slathered on toasted baguettes, and for nutty, yellow butter smeared on anything and everything.  Lest I forget the souffles, the moist, fluffy quiches, the deeply flavored cassoulet, the sublimely stinky and soft cheeses, pain du chocolat, and the peerless chocolates.

breadI wish it weren’t so heavenly (because practically speaking, I won’t be moving permanently anytime soon), but it is.  (C’est la vie.)  Paris is like living in a museum, except the food’s so alive.   What I learned while playing house in the Marais is that some of the best things I put in my mouth, the best bites I took, were not just from haute, fancy spots, but also from neighborhood bakeries (boulangeries, as they call them), cheese shops (fromageries) and chocolatiers. Of course, Alain Passard’s legendary Arpege was unforgettable (and yes, worth the ticket and fight for a table), and so was Spring and Yamtcha, but I’m more surprised at how exciting the outdoor food markets, the no-frills creperies, and grungy falafel joints are.

If you’re heading to Paris for three days, a week, or forever (I’m jealous), here’s my guide to the Best Restaurants Paris in the most delicious city in the world.  And we’ll be adding new places every week…

Clamato

Clamato
80 rue de charonne
Paris,75011
+331 43 72 74 53
Cuisine:

Heard of the impossible reservation that is Septime?  Well, owners chef Bertrand Grébaut and Théo Pourriat’s recently opened a no-reservations spot (yes, there is hope!) right next door.  ...

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L’Arpege

L’Arpege
84 Rue de Varenne
07 ème,75007
+33 1 47 05 09 06
Cuisine: ,

When I think of French food, I think of creamy sauces, rich reductions, and decadent meats.  Vegetarian fare?   Now, that's not something I'd ever associate with France. But I recently had...

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La Regalade Conservatoire

La Regalade Conservatoire
11 Rue du Conservatoire
09 ème,75009
01 44 83 83 60
Cuisine:

Most of us don't have the luxury to pick up and spend two, three weeks, or even a month in another country.  (I'm still not sure how I pulled off six weeks in Paris, but I won't look a gift horse in...

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Aida

Aida
1 Rue Pierre Leroux
07 ème,75007
+33 1 43 06 14 18
Cuisine:

Sick of eating French food in France? Hey, it happens.  Though it's an exemplary cuisine, it's also a decadent one, and sometimes you just need a break, which is what compelled my husband and I to...

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Yam’Tcha

4 Rue Sauval
01ère,75001
+33 1 40 26 08 07
Cuisine: ,

If you've spent time traveling abroad, I'm sure you've realized it isn't exactly the easiest thing to make dinner reservations on your own, what with country codes and different time zones.  Never...

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Le Chateaubriand

Le Chateaubriand
129 Avenue Parmentier
11 ème,75011
+33 1 43 57 45 95
Cuisine:

Wander by Le Chateaubriand and you'd never guess it was one of the top fifty restaurants in the world, at least according to San Pellegrino's annual list.   In fact, it ranked number nine in 2009,...

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Le Relais Louis XIII

Le Relais Louis XIII
8 Rue des Grands Augustins
06 ème,75006
+33 1 43 26 75 96
Cuisine:

The thing about dining in Paris nowadays is that there are so many modern French restaurants that it's hard to find a traditional, fine French one.  You know, the kind that features Quenelles, Frog...

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Breizh Cafe

Breizh Cafe
109 Rue Vieille du Temple
03 ème,75003
+33 1 42 72 13 77
Cuisine:

You can't go to Paris and not eat crepes.  Quelle sacrilege!  After all, crepes are one of France's most beloved street foods, and one of the world's greatest hangover remedies.  (Well, it's...

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Saturne

Saturne
17 Rue Notre-Dame des Victoires
02 ème,75002
+33 1 42 60 31 90
Cuisine: ,

There's a new school of, well, new restaurants in Paris that all seem a lot alike, so I was worried Saturne would feel like deja vu.  (A little like Spring, a little like Bones and Roseval.)  But...

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Rech

Rech
62 Avenue des Ternes
17 ème,75017
33 1 45 72 29 47
Cuisine: ,

Talk about an underrated restaurant: Not once did anyone mention Rech when recommending restaurants to visit in Paris.  That's a mistake. I make to sure hit up Rech every time I head to Paris...

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Astrance

Astrance
4 Rue Beethoven
16 ème,75016
+33 1 40 50 84 40
Cuisine:

As a foodie, I've always wanted to eat at Astrance.   It's one of those great dining legends you hear about, hoping one day you'll get to experience the magic for yourself.  Pascal Barbot &...

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L’As Du Fallafel

L’As Du Fallafel
32-34 Rue des Rosiers
04 ème,75004
+33 1 48 87 63 60
Cuisine:

You don't exactly think of fallafel when you think of Paris, but the city of love just happens to house one of the best fallafel shops in the world.  (Even better than the fallafel in Israel!)...

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Le Comptoir Du Relais

Le Comptoir Du Relais
9 Carrefour De L'Odeon
06 ème,75006
Cuisine:

Some restaurants have that certain magic you can't quite put into words.   You know, one of those spots that everyone wants to not only see and be seen, but also wants to eat at.  That's not an...

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Le Dome Cafe

Le Dome Cafe
108 Boulevard du Montparnasse
14 ème,75014
+33 1 43 35 25 81
Cuisine: ,

If you're looking for an old school brasserie to sup on oysters and Chablis, Le Dome in Montparnasse is a fine idea.  (Ernest Hemingway and Henry Miller made a regular habit of Le Dome.) With...

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Florence Kahn

Florence Kahn
24 Rue des Ecouffes
04 ème,75004
+33 1 48 87 92 85
Cuisine: ,

You wouldn't expect to find a boulangerie in the heart of the Marais named after the first Jewish woman to serve in the United States Congress.  But there's nothing American about this shop, easily...

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Bones

Bones
43 Rue Godefroy Cavaignac
11 ème,
33 9 80 75 32 08
Cuisine:

"We could be anywhere but Paris," my dining companion uttered as we sat down to dinner at Bones.  In fact, it feels more like Bushwick, Brooklyn than Paris, France.  The servers all speak English...

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David Toutain

David Toutain
29 Rue Surcouf
07 ème,75007
+33 1 45 50 11 10
Cuisine:

Full disclosure: I'm not a big fan of the whole molecular gastronomy trend not just in France, but at-large (though I'm more than happy to be proven wrong and I most definitely (and thankfully) am...

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Marche President Wilson

Marche President Wilson
Avenue President Wilson
07 ème,
Cuisine:

Marché President Wilson is proof that outdoor markets don't have to be so 'rough and tumble' so to speak.  In fact, this one on the rather luxe Avenue President Wilson, just across from the Seine...

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Marche Bastille

Marche Bastille
Boulevard Richard Lenoir
11 ème,
Cuisine:

There is no shortage of outdoor food markets in Paris, that's for sure, but some are way better than others, and Marché Bastille happens to be my favorite.  Why? Because there's so much variety....

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Le Coq Rico

Le Coq Rico
98 Rue Lepic
18 ème,75018
+33 1 42 59 82 89
Cuisine:

Planning a visit to the famed Sacré-Couer in Montmartre?  There aren't a lot of great dining options in this neck of the woods, aside from Le Coq Rico.  If you want to cross Roast Chicken, the...

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Marche Des Enfants Rouges

Marche Des Enfants Rouges
39 rue de Bretagne
03 ème,75003
33-1-40-11-20-40

What was once an orphanage for children in the 16th century -- orphans who were dressed in red, thus the Enfants Rouges part of the name -- morphed (all the way back in 1615) into one of the funkiest...

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Terroir Parisien

Terroir Parisien
28 Place de la Bourse
02 ème,75002
+01 83 92 20 30
Cuisine:

I’ve eaten more than my fair share of tarte tatin in France and beyond, and I simply can’t find one that comes close to Yannick Alleno’s take at Terroir Parisien at the Palais Brongniart, near...

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Gosselin

Gosselin
258 Boulevard Saint-Germain
07 ème,75007
+33 1 45 51 53 11
Cuisine:

What can I say? Croissants just taste better in Paris.  I think it's the superiority of the butter they have, which is divinely rich and smooth. There are so many gloriously flaky specimens to...

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Le Grand Vefour

Le Grand Vefour
17 Rue Du Beaujolais
01ère,75001
+33 1 42 96 56 27

Sometimes a restaurant can play a part.  Some make you feel cool and in the know, while others make you feel sexy and in the mood.  Le Grand Vefour makes you feel like a fancy Frenchmen (or women),...

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Brasserie Thoumieux

Brasserie Thoumieux
79 Rue Saint-Dominique
07 ème,
33 1 47 05 49 75
Cuisine:

The room itself is almost worth a visit to this stylish haunt adjacent to the Hotel Le Thomieux in the 7th arrondissement.  Really, all French brasseries should look this fabulous at 90 something...

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Cafe Des Musees

Cafe Des Musees
49 Rue de Turenne
03 ème,75003
+33 1 42 72 96 17
Cuisine:

One glance at Cafe De Musees and you'll wonder why it always seems so packed.  As far as looks go, it's on the uglier side of the spectrum.   (Just saying.)  It's located in the Marais, just a...

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La Boulangerie Beaumarchais

La Boulangerie Beaumarchais
28 Boulevard Beaumarchais
03 ème,75011
Cuisine:

The reason you don't read more about this boulangerie is because no one really knows the actual name of this underrated bakery.  Some people call it Boulangerie 28 (which refers to its street...

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Le 6 Paul Bert

Le 6 Paul Bert
6 Rue Paul Bert
11 ème,75011
+33 1 43 79 14 32
Cuisine:

Ever since Bertrand Auboyneau opened Bistrot Paul Bert, Rue Paul Bert has become somewhat of a dining destination.  His latest venture Le 6 Paul Bert, named after its address, is located just...

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Carette

Carette
25 Place des Vosges
03 ème,75003
+33 1 48 87 94 07
Cuisine: ,

Maybe I'm biased because I lived just a few floors above this cafe, but Carette is a great pit stop when you find yourself in the Marais.  Would I go out of my way to eat here or dub it a...

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Roseval

Roseval
1 Rue d'Eupatoria
20 ème,75020
33 9 53 56 24 14
Cuisine:

Think there's only one Brooklyn or downtown LA?  Think again. There's a young and hip generation of chefs striking off on their own to make their mark on the Paris dining scene.  Since they haven't...

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Rimal

Rimal
94 Boulevard Malesherbes
16 ème,75017
+33 1 42 27 61 22
Cuisine:

Lebanese in Paris?  You'd be surprised how much ethnic food there is to eat in this beautiful city.  Moroccan, Vietnamese, Japanese, Thai, and lots of Lebanese.  If you need a night off from...

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Camille

Camille
24 Rue des Francs Bourgeoi
03 ème,75003
+33 1 42 72 20 50
Cuisine:

It's hard to find a great neighborhood spot that you want to return to again and again.  Especially for someone like me who loves to try new things and new places.  Which is why I'm such a fan of...

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Marche Biologique Raspail

Marche Biologique Raspail
Boulevard Raspail
06 ème,75006
0608439023
Cuisine:

Maybe this market was overhyped to me because I didn't think much of it, at least in comparison to the other outdoor markets the city has to offer.   Then again, I'm more concerned with excellent...

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Chez Janou

Chez Janou
2 Rue Roger Verlomme
03 ème,75003
+33 1 42 72 28 41
Cuisine:

The Mousse au Chocolat is reason enough to make a pit stop at this buzzy neighborhood spot in the Marais.  Do not pass go without the mousse.  Because what arrives at the table is an enormous bowl...

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