Best New Find – The Wallace

Can a former magazine publisher -turned chef- turned restaurant owner even hope to make a mark on Brooklyn’s expansive local-seasonal scene?  The answer is yes if you’re talking about Jon Wallace, who just opened his first eatery in Clinton Hill with fiance Jessica Soule.  At The Wallace, chef Jon manages to add spice and soul to dishes that, at less interesting restaurants and under less capable hands, run the risk of becoming tired trends.  Case in point – a board of both housemade and locally sourced Charcuterie, which includes duck liver pate with diced jalapeño and plum jam, testa with pickled shallot, and Benton’s ham with chili oil (we weren’t kidding about the spice).  A not-too-sweet Butternut Squash Risotto with mascarpone, pecorino romano and balsamic reduction makes a terrific follow-up, as do Braised Oxtails (tender as short ribs!) with creamy polenta, toasted breadcrumbs, and crispy garlic.  The wine and spirits list is extensive, with (this being Brooklyn and all), a decided emphasis on New York State bottles and brands .