Q & A with George Mendes

George Mendes Headshot.jpgDistinguishing yourself as a chef is not easy.  Yet, George Mendes has done just that with his first restaurant, Aldea located in the Flatiron District.  This Portuguese chef has managed to bring invigorate Iberian cuisine with his modern twists on classic Portuguese and Spanish fare.   Mendes has been working two years to get Aldea off the ground. 

Prior to his solo debut, Mendes graduated from the CIA and went on to train under such esteemed chefs as David Bouley and Alain Ducasse.   Multiple stages in France and Spain further prepared him for the role of executive chef at Le Zoo and Toqueville.

At Aldea, he's receiving deserved critical attention for his vibrant Iberian cooking.  The menu's filled with Spanish and Portuguese classics, like shrimp alhinho as well unique bites, like sea urchin toast with cauliflower cream, sea lettuce and lime.

Single/Married/Divorced?

Married.

What did you want to be when you grew up?  Do you ever have thoughts of taking off your chef whites and doing something else?                                                                                                                                    I was very into sports: basketball and soccer.  Then in high school I began drafting and architecture, so that was what I was going to embark on.  And then I visited the Culinary Institute of America.

What was it like growing up in Connecticut in a Portuguese household and what are some of your most memorable recipes and family traditions?                                                                                            Thanksgiving and Christmas Eve, as well as all major holidays involved elaborate food preparations.  Various rice dishes, rabbit, goat, salt cod—my mom and aunts would be cooking for two days straight.

You regard David Bouley as your mentor.  What were the most important things you learned from working with him at Bouley?                                                                                                                                    It was an introduction to a very light, herbal cuisine, but most importantly I learned how to marry flavors.  He taught me to trust my palate and welcome global ingredients and seasoning.

You worked in kitchens our first executive chef job was at Le Zoo.  What was your cooking style like then, and how has it developed over the years?                                                                                                  I was 24 years old and it was my first time running a kitchen.  There was a lot of trial and error.  My food was very simple with the focus on technique.  I was eating out a lot.  My food has developed into a personal style influenced by my travels, heritage, and inspirations but with an Iberian reference point.

Your cooking has ranged from French to Austrian to Spanish, but which cuisine are you most passionate about?
I’m very passionate about the Iberian Peninsula – Portugal and Spain.

You’ve worked in restaurants all over the world, from Arpege in Paris to a stage under chef Martin Berasategui in Spain.  Why return to New York?

I never really left.  Those were trips/stages to learn and grow.  I grew up 1.5 hours from New York City and have lived here for 15 years.  I love it here, a lot to offer inspiration-wise from restaurants to design, fashion, etc.

 

Tell us about your experience working at Toqueville.

It was a period of research, defining my style and what direction I wanted to take.  I learned a lot about customer relations and business sense.

 

What is the most difficult aspect of opening your own restaurant?

Multi-tasking.  Trying to be everywhere at the same time.  It’s not about just being a chef or a cook anymore.  It’s other things like maintenance, and opening up envelopes of bills!

 

What food trends do you embrace?

Don’t like the word trend.  There is a constant influx of information out there—new techniques and ingredients.  New approaches.  I love the avant-garde movement.  If cuisine (or us chefs) doesn’t evolve, we regress.  And it gets boring.

 

What food trends do you wish would just die already?

I love burgers, but enough already.

 

What is your favorite item on the menu at Aldea?

There are many. The sea urchin toast, the shrimp alhinho, duck rice egg preparations, salt cod.

 

What is your least favorite (and yes, you must pick one)?

OK fine, but not really.  The clams.

 

Where do you like to go for a great Portuguese or Spanish meal in New York City?

For Portuguese I would go to PAO in west Soho or to Newark, New JerseyFerry St.  For Spanish, I love Boqueria and Txikito as well as El Quinto Pino.

 

Any new projects on the horizon?  Spill the beans…

Just Aldea right now.  And it’s more than enough.

Address: 31 W 17th Street, btwn. 5th Ave. & Ave. of the Americas

Phone: (212) 675-7223

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