restaurantgirl

By Pastry Chef Vera Tong
(Yield: 8 portions)

Ingredients:

• Sugar ¾ cup
• Water ¼ cup
• Heavy Cream ¼ cup
• Muscavado Sugar ½ cup
• Cornstarch  ½ cup
• Kosher salt 1 ½ teaspoons
• Milk 3 cups
• Egg Yolks 4
• Unsalted Cold Butter 4oz and 2 tablespoons
• ¼ cup Scotch
• Vanilla Extract 1 teaspoon

Preparation:
Caramelize sugar and water in a heavy bottomed sauce pot until color is deep amber. Meanwhile, heat heavy cream in another saucepan. Slowly add to caramel. In a 4-quart saucepot, combine muscavado sugar, cornstarch, salt, milk, yolks and caramel. Cook on medium flame, whisking constantly until very thick. Immediately transfer pudding to a separate container. Add butter and stir until completely emulsified. Add scotch and vanilla and mix until uniform in texture. Pour into 4 oz ramekins and set in refrigerator for 4 hours (If you prefer not to have a skin on the top, place a piece of plastic wrap directly on top of the pudding).

Ingredients to serve:

• Heavy Cream 1 cup
• Sugar 1 tablespoon
• Ground Cardamom 1 teaspoon

Whip 1 cup of heavy cream with 1 tablespoon of sugar and 1 teaspoon of ground cardamom until soft peaks.  Then serve immediately.

Phone: (212)362-3800
Address: 103 West 77th St., nr. Columbus Ave.

For the finicky brownie eater who is partial to the crust - this brownie pan is for you. It's strategically shaped so every brownie has the crispy and slightly overcooked edges. If you're not a fan of the edge pieces, consider yourself saved from eating a pan of brownies...

Edge Brownie Pan

Want to share your favorite kitchen gizmo? Email Us.

With Gotham Bar & Grill, Alfred Portale has successfully managed to build a 24-year old East Village institution with exemplary modern American fare.  Portale has earned numerous high accolades, including two James Beard Awards and multiple 3-star reviews in the New York Times.  This Wednesday, February 27th, the Careers through the Culinary Arts Program (C-CAP) is honoring him at their 10th annual benefit dinner.  Not only a leader in the restaurant industry, but Portale also generously donates time to underserved high school students with culinary aspirations.

Portale produces some of the city's finest "vertically-inclined" dishes, including a roast squab with potato puree, sweet corn, snap peas, pine nuts and a smoked ancho chile sauce as well as juniper-spiced muscovy duck breast with sour cherries, butternut squash puree, foie gras and an apple cider jus.

Status: Single/Married/Divorced
Married

What did you want to be when you grew up?
Rock Star

How did you get into food?
Girls.  I started cooking in high school when I found it was a good way to get girls to the house.

What was your first job in food?
At an Italian restaurant, in Buffalo.

What was the inspiration behind Gotham Bar and Grill and its modern American menu?...

Owner Stephen LoCastro has transformed what was formerly Tribeca Studio Deli into Greenwich SteakNBurger.  Don't be deceived by the name as LoCastro (Tre Scalini) to implement an American bistro menu with an impressive selection of gourmet burgers (ten to be exact) and homemade sauces. 

Highlights include a New Zealand lamb burger with smoked onions, Maryland crab burger, and Sicilian veal burger with sweet potato gnocchi.  There's also a sizeable bistro menu with a signature "NY steak tartar burger" appetizer, grilled skirt steak with coffee barbecue sauce as well as grilled salmon with balsamic reduction.

The 70-seat space is outfitted with cherry hardwood floors, iron chandeliers and Morroccan benches.  Come spring, Greenwich SteakNBurger will also offer al fresco sidewalk seating.

Address: 369 Greenwich St., corner of Franklin St.
Hours: Mon-Sat, 11a.m.-11p.m., Sun, 11.a.m.-9p.m.
Phone: (212)625-1010

Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
**Don't forget to subscribe for Restaurant Girl's Weekly Newsletter**

** Two Stars - A hidden gem in Brooklyn
ADDRESS: 77 N. Sixth St.,at Wythe Ave., Brooklyn
PHONE: (718) 388-8985
DINNER: Tues.-Sat.,6-11:30 p.m.; Sun., 5:30-11 p.m.
CUISINE: Japanese brasserie
VIBE: Clandestine speakeasy
OCCASION: Romantic date; under-the-radar dining
DON'T-MISS DISH: Grilled miso oysters; scallops tempura
PRICES: Small plates $5-$14; desserts $6-$6.50
RESERVATIONS: Highly recommended

If James Bond were craving Japanese in Brooklyn, I imagine it would look a lot like Zenkichi.

An air of mystery and glamour begins at an unmarked wood door on a lonely street corner at the edge of Williamsburg. As you descend a flight of stairs into this three-story labyrinth of corridors, you'll feel like you've stumbled upon some hidden "otherworld" decorated with Japanese lanterns, bamboo and pebble-strewn floors.

Diners are escorted to dimly lit wooden booths and secluded from other guests by bamboo shades. There are tabletop call buttons to summon servers, who smoothly duck in and out of dining nooks to take orders or deliver dishes. It is no wonder Zenkichi is so romantic.  Husband-and-wife team Shaul Margulies and Motoko Watanabe designed and run this 70-seat restaurant.

This Japanese brasserie could easily get by on its looks. Yet the small-plates menu is as beguiling as the intimate surroundings. Luscious oysters - grilled in a red miso sauce and presented in an oyster shell - taste as opulent as they look...

In keeping with a seven-year tradition, swarms of foodies descended on South Beach for the 2008 Food Network South Beach Wine & Food festival this past weekend.  Rachel Ray, Emeril Lagasse, Bobby Flay and Giada DeLaurentis were on hand for the four-day long celebration. 

Vegetarians need not have attended this year's "Burger Bash" where guests dined on 17 unique renditions.  Though Radius of Boston officially beat out the competition, other noteworthy competitors included chef Laurent Tourondel (BLT) as well as chef Tim Love (Love Shack), who served up a flavorful patty topped with homemade pickles, bacon and the chef's signature "love" sauce.

The gluttony persisted the following evening at the "BubbleQ" with champagne and barbecue, prepared by Patrick Neely (Neely’s Bar-B-Que), Rick Bayless (Frontera Grill), and Kenny Callaghan (Blue Smoke) – to name only a few.  Though it had little to do with barbecue, we were partial to Tyler Florence’s grilled calamari with fennel over a fava bean puree as well as Zak Pelaccio’s brisket-laced burger finished with kimchee  (pictured right.)

But the most sumptuous feast of the weekend was had by attendees at Mario Batali and Jamie Oliver’s “Fettucine and Fiorentina” with an array of steaks and homemade pastas, including a superb rib steaks and penne Bolognese.  The festivities continued late into the evening at Gianni Versace's mansion as guests mingled poolside.

Other highlights included a Jean-Georges Vongerichten tribute dinner and a tribute brunch recognizing chef Jamie Oliver's charitable work toward improving food standards in school systems across the globe. 

Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
**Don't forget to subscribe for Restaurant Girl's Weekly Newsletter**

By Executive Sushi Chef Masato Shimizu
(Serves 4)

Ingredients for the ikura:

• 4 oz ikura (salmon roe)
•  Salt
•  Yuzu zest

Ingredients for dashi jiru:

• 6 ½ oz   katsuo dashi (bonito broth)
•  0.3 oz    mirin
•  0.3 oz    soy sauce

To prepare ikura:
In a medium bowl, wash roe in salted ice water to separate the eggs then strain.  In a large bowl, wash the roe in fresh cold water and strain.  Repeat three times, straining well each time. 

To make dashi jiru:
In a medium pot, bring to boil katsuo dashi, mirin and soy sauce.  Chill in an ice water bath.

To marinate the ikura:
In a medium bowl, combine the washed roe with 1 ounce of dashi jiru.  “Wash” the roe with dashi jiru then strain.  In a large bowl, combine roe with half (about 3 ounces) of dashi jiru.  In a refrigerator, marinate for three hours, then strain.  In a storable container, combine roe with the rest of dashi jiru and marinate overnight.

To serve
Place 1 ounce of roe with a little sauce in a small glass bowl.  Sprinkle with yuzu zest.

Address: 15 East 15th St., nr. Union Square
Phone: (212)647-0015

First-time restaurateurs Joe Campanale (left) and Gabe Thompson (right) have recently opened the instantly successful West Village wine bar, dell'anima.  With Thompson in the kitchen and Campanale focused on the wine, the two have formed a partnership that brings a new outlook into the trendy NYC wine bar scene. Campanale brings his experience as a sommelier from Babbo to dell'Anima, where he has not only installed a rigorous Italian wine program, but also leans on his travels through Italy when creating cocktails.  Thompson spent time in various acclaimed kitchens including Le Bernardin and Del Posto, where he perfected the art of homemade pasta, including kabocha squash ravioli with almonds, brown butter and sage, as well as a splendid tagliatelle alla bolognese.  

What do you two want to be when you grow up?
Joe: I don't know yet. I'm having so much fun.   

Gabe: I wanted to be a fireman, a scientist, an astronaut, an actor, a spy, a radio DJ and a stage hand.  Somehow I ended up being a chef.

What were your first jobs in food?
J: I had an internship in the kitchen at Union Square Café while I was a sophomore at NYU.

G: My first job was a busboy at Olive Garden.

Joe, prior to opening dell’Anima, you worked as the sommelier at Babbo. How did you acquire such a sought after and respected position in one of NYC’s most demanded restaurants?
I worked at the Italian Wine Merchants (also partly owned by Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich), which helped me get the interview.  I had other Italian wine experience having worked for almost a year with Vinifera imports, and spent seven months in Italy. I also knew that I still had (and continue to have) a lot to learn, and I must admit, David Lynch was a great teacher when we were at Babbo together.

Gabriel, how have you incorporated your experience from fine dining restaurants Le Bernardin and Del Posto into your current, more casual restaurant?...

Address: 1900 Broadway, near 64th St.
Phone: (212) 595-0303
Dinner: Sun.-Thurs., 5-11 p.m; Fri. & Sat., 5 p.m.- midnight; Lunch: Mon.-Fri., noon-3:30 p.m.
Cuisine: Contemporary French.
Vibe: Bustling wine bar.
Occasion: Charcuterie quest; casual UWS dinner.
Don't Miss Dish: Pate grand-mere; braised flatiron steak.
Price: Appetizers, $8-$18; entrees, $17-$28; desserts, $6-$12.
Reservations: Highly recommended.

Chef Daniel Boulud's new French bistro, which opened across from Lincoln Center, is unlike any other Boulud production. This is the iconic chef's answer to Manhattan's demand for informal wine bars. His talent for producing outstanding French cuisine is matched by equally impeccable service (Daniel, Café Boulud).

At Daniel (his haute flagship), servers glide gracefully through the dining room. At Bar Boulud, they frantically weave through the narrow quarters, crowded with oenophiles, locals and Boulud devotees. Guests swarm the hostess stand; the less desirable front dining room becomes a makeshift waiting area for those eager to feast on charcuterie, displayed in a glass counter that runs the length of the 100-seat space.

As for the charcuterie, there's a stunning roster of pâtés and terrines to be had. Charcutier Sylvain Gasdon delivers exquisitely rich pâtés, stocked with ground pork. The pâté grand-mère gets its rustic sweetness from chicken liver and cognac, while the pâté grand-père gets more opulent seasonings of truffle juice, foie gras and port. The terrines all emerge as savory mosaics that nearly transport you to the countryside of France. Among the stockpiles of charcuterie, my favorite was a juicy truffled sausage laced with pistachio and tucked into a warm brioche.

The wine list proffers a robust and affordable selection of reds by the glass that deftly harness the richness of the charcuterie. Subtle décor gestures, such as white oak tables, limestone floors and a vaulted ceiling are meant to evoke a wine cellar. Though wine plays a prominent role in all aspects of the restaurant, the bistro menu tends to lean too heavily on red wine for flavor. Both a mushroom-stuffed skate and an entree of salmon registered only their heavy-handed sauces of Syrah.

Many of executive chef Damian Sansonetti's classic bistro staples were surprisingly undistinguished. Neither a standard issue steak frites nor an underwhelming coq au vin, scattered with lardons and button mushrooms, was particularly compelling. The escargot was afflicted by a runny persillade (parsley and garlic) and a mismatched tomato garnish. Even a steak tartar, made with topnotch Black Angus sirloin, tasted underseasoned and ordinary.

But Bar Boulud's fancified version of "fish and chips" raises the bar: Silky grouper gets a crispy exterior and an inventive pairing with root vegetable chips. A tangy mustard sauce is the crowning touch on this dynamic plate. An excellent braised flatiron steak is plated over a fluffy carrot mousseline and sweet onion confit. A house-made linguine emerges terrifically light on its feet. It gets a briny sprinkling of razor clams, cuttlefish and olives, then is glossed in a white wine sauce with bright strides of lemon.

Unfortunately, bold flavor combinations and inspired dishes are a rare event. The bustle of the dining room and unreliable service make for an exhausting dining experience. Trying to place an order can feel a bit like hailing a taxi in a thunderstorm. Nonetheless, the charcuterie and terrific wine list alone are worth braving the mobs that are currently descending on the upper West Side eatery. In Daniel Boulud's indisputably talented hands, there's little doubt that Bar Boulud will rise to the occasion.

(with Roasted Bananas & Whipped Cream)
By Pastry Chef Daniel Skurnick

Ingredients

Chocolate Crémeux

• Milk 1 c.
• Heavy Cream  1 c.
• Cinnamon Sticks 1 each
• Star Anise 1 each
• Small Dried Chile 1 ea
• Egg Yolks 5 each
• Sugar 1/3 c.
• Dark Chocolate, chopped 14 oz.

Roasted Bananas

• Bananas 2 each
• Palm Sugar  1 T.
• Butter 1 T.
• Dark Rum 3 T.
• Sea salt 1/8 t.

Preparation:
(for the Chocolate Crémeux)
In a small sauce pan, bring the milk, cream, and spices to a boil, and then remove from heat.  Allow the milk to cool and the spices to steep for at least 30 minutes.  Strain the spices out of the milk and discard.  Meanwhile, in medium sized bowl, whisk together the sugar and egg yolks.  Return the spiced milk and cream to a boil, then pour over the egg yolk mixture, whisking well.  While this mixture is still hot, pour this over the dark chocolate, stirring well to completely melt the chocolate and make the mixture smooth.
Pour into small glasses or bowls and refrigerate, at least 6 hours or overnight.

(For the Roasted Bananas)
Slice the bananas into ½ inch discs. 
In a medium sauté pan, melt the butter and palm sugar.  Add the bananas and toss well.
Remove from the flame and add the rum.  Return to heat, taking caution with flames. 
When flames subside, season with salt, remove from heat and cool.

Garnish crémeux with bananas, unsweetened whipped cream, and chocolate shavings.

*Note: Star anise, dried chilies, and palm sugar can be found in most Asian grocery stores.  Light brown sugar can be substituted for palm sugar