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Our New York Fall Favorites

xMarlow_,a_Son,27s_Brick_Chicken_10.jpg.pagespeed.ic.TwbOA9KdbDAlthough it may not necessarily feel like it (we had two, 80-degree days this weekend!), it’s officially fall.  And that means, corn and heirloom tomatoes are quickly giving way to dark, leafy greens and squash.  But that doesn’t need to be as big a bummer as it sounds, especially if you elect to dine at the following restaurants, from the recently opened GG’s and White Street, to established favorites like Il Buco Alimentari, Marlow and Sons, and even Le Cirque, all of which are beautifully transforming autumn’s bounty into some seriously delicious dishes!

White Street

White Street
221 W Broadway
Tribeca,New York 10013
(212) 944-8378

After years of working within Danny Meyer’s storied restaurant empire, Floyd Cardoz finally set out on his own this year, resulting in this chic Tribeca eatery on White Street.  While we hope Indian flavors factor even more prominently on his menu in the future (the shuttering of Tabla left a still un-filled void in the city), it’s still rife, nonetheless, with appealing, autumnal items.  Try the Spiced Pumpkin Soup with toasted seeds and ricotta, a Roasted Half Cauliflower with pine nuts and raisins, and North Atlantic Sea Bream with shaved brussels sprouts and tamarind glaze.

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GG’s

GG’s
511 E. 5th St
East Village,New York 10009
(212) 687-3641

Nick Morgenstern’s light-dappled, recently opened reincarnation of Goat Town draws inspiration from classic, New York fare.  That means, a double-decker oven churns out char-crusted pizzas, such as the 1986 (an ode to the World Series-winning Mets), topped with spicy soppressata, pickled peppers, and fennel agrodolce, as well as hearty, slow-baked dishes, including Whole Branzino with garlic cream and potatoes, Sweet Squash with bitter greens, lardons and beets, and Cast Iron Chicken, served with salt-baked fall vegetables and a vibrant chimichurri.

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Tessa

Tessa
349 Amsterdam Ave
Upper West Side,New York 10024
(212) 390-1974

Cedric Tovar explores mostly Mediterranean flavors at this spacious, new Upper West Sider.  Highlights on his recently released fall menu include a trio of dips, like Carrot Harissa, Smoked Eggplant and Ricotta Cheese & Figs served with lavash bread, as well as a silky Sunchoke and Chestnut Soup, laked with truffle cream, Rabbit Cavatelli, a rich assemblage of pasta, pancetta ragu, smoked cipollini onion and lovage coulis, and a Grilled Berkshire Pork Chop, served with charred scallions and braised gigante beans.

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Porsena

Porsena
21 E 7th St
East Village,New York 10003
(212) 228-4923

Sara Jenkins may have become known for her luscious rolls of roasted pork at Porchetta, but she decided to explore a broader range of Italian dishes a few years ago, when she opened her charming East Village trattoria, Porsena.  And pastas, in particular, have proved a specialty, so don’t think twice about constructing a multi-course progression of diminutive Pennette, dotted with brussels sprouts leaves, pancetta and thyme, Anelloni; ring-shaped noodles wrapped around spicy lamb sausage and mustard greens, and substantial Cannelloni al Forno; ragu, tomato and béchamel-filled tubes, individually baked in terra cotta.

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Le Cirque

Le Cirque
151 E 58th St.
Midtown East,New York 10022
(212) 644-0202

It’s a disservice to solely associate Le Cirque with its 1980’s-era “heritage” dishes, now that forward-thinking Michelin-starred chef, Raphael Francois, is at the helm.  Not that he’s above grand, Le Cirque-ian flourishes, such as sending slabs of velvety, pink Pate to be presented tableside, accompanied by pickled chilies and pearl onions plucked from ceramic crocks.  But he never selects form over function (i.e., creating thoughtful, perfectly balanced dishes), such as succulent Maine Diver Scallops, paired with sweetbreads and a silken corn beurre blanc, a winter-ized Caprese-style Salad, which subs tomatoes for sweet cylinders of beet, cloaked in an airy mozzarella mousse, and an unctuous Blue Crab Brandade, thick with cream and fragrant with fennel.

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Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria

Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria
53 Great Jones Street
East Village,New York 10012
(212) 837-2622

Longtime chef, Justin Smillie, may have departed, but Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria is still a must for simple, yet elegant Italian fare.  Start with a Fall Harvest Olive Oil Tasting, featuring emerald pools of nectar from Moraiolo, Taggiasca and Biancolilla olives, followed by inky strands of Neri pasta, tossed with hunks of house-cured salt cod, strewn with fennel and coated with breadcrumbs, and finish with rustic proteins such as Polletto alla Griglia; chicken paired with plums and pomegranate, Roasted Short Ribs flavored with walnuts, horseradish and celery, or Porchetta alla Romana; pork with peaches, olives and agrodolce.

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Marlow & Sons

Marlow & Sons
81 Broadway
Brooklyn,New York 11249
(718) 384-1441

One of a string of seminal Williamsburg restaurants owned by Andrew Tarlow, the moody, mirrored and marbled Marlow & Sons boasts a brief, ever-changing menu, devoted to oysters, small plates and serious seasonality.  So blink and you might miss current offerings, such as meaty Red Snapper, accompanied by clams and end-of-summer sweet corn, tender, gamey Rabbit Leg, deposited atop cauliflower and pine nuts, and golden, crispy-skinned Brick Chicken, served with oversized wedges of slow-roasted sweet potatoes for sopping up the juice.

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Extra Fancy

Extra Fancy
302 Metropolitan Ave
Brooklyn,New York 11211
(347) 422-0939

An established, after-shift hangout for industry folk (Daniel Boulud celebrated his star-studded, 59th birthday there), Extra Fancy’s killer cocktail program and beachy, seafood-centric menu might seem eternally rooted in summer.  But chef Sean Telo’s dishes (both shellfish-based and non) are totally appropriate all year round, including Hudson Valley Foie Gras with delicata squash, grilled pears and bonito flakes, Bangs Island Mussels served with housemade bread and verjus, and Pan Seared Trout accompanied by fingerling potatoes, bacon and mustard.

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