Bubby’s Embraces the Southern Meat & Three
25-year-old Bubby’s has long been a haven of feel-good, all-American eats, such as mac and cheese, apple pie, fried chicken and matzoh ball soup. And now, the collection of finer diners are delving even further into red, white and blue territory, by taking on the hallowed, southern-styled “meat + three”.
Recently appropriated by the Uncle Boons team (Mr. Donahue’s) and former Commerce chef, Harold Moore (of Harold’s Meat + Three), and popularized by Nashville luminaries like Arnold’s Country Kitchen, the affordable dining concept stays true to its name; offering customers a choice of protein, accompanied by a sustaining trio of sides.
With NYC real estate to contend with, however, Bubby’s version is more dearly priced than what you’ll generally find in the south; ranging from $20 (for classics like Ribs and Meatloaf, and unusual add-ons such as Cuban Roasted Pork and Peruvian-Style Chicken), to $25 (luxury options include Whole Trout and pepper-spiced Prime Rib).
Sides are whittled to two, ranging from wholly decadent (Skillet Hash Browns, Buttermilk Fried Onion Strings) to comparatively healthy (Braised Turnip Greens, Charred Broccoli, Asparagus with green sauce), leaving sauces to occupy their own portion of the plate; think Triple Citrus Shallot, Arkansas Parker BBQ and Horseradish Cream.
No matter. It just means you can allot saved stomach space to a new roster of burgers (Green Chili Cheese, SLC Pastrami); not to mention the impeccable lineup of pies (Sour Cherry, Peanut Butter-Chocolate, Mile High Lemon Meringue) — each owing considerably less to the south than they do the passed-down baking prowess of chef Ron Silver’s honored, beloved Bubby.
120 Hudson St.