Since opening in fall of 2014, Cosme has remained one of NYC’s hottest reservations. And now that chef Daniela Soto-Innes has received a James Beard Award “Rising Star” nomination, it’s all but assured that buzz won’t be slowing down anytime soon. So if you’re craving instant access to justly lauded creations like opulent Uni Tostadas, and pastry chef Jesus Perea’s ingenious Husk Meringue, your best bet might be to take a long break from the office, and settle in for a truly spectacular lunch.
Taking place from 12pm-2:30pm from Monday through Friday, the just-launched, early afternoon service includes blessed access to those two, aforementioned items, but an expansive roster of other dishes, exclusively offered at lunch, also warrant a dedicated visit. In addition to low octane cocktails such as Bloody Marias, tingly with Serrano, guajillo or chile de arbol, and citrusy Palomas, rimmed with grapefruit salt, you’ll find “Poisoned” Oysters (splashed with lime and mandarin juices, hot sauces, and vinegar made from xoconostle; the fruit of the cactus plant), as well as Octopus Cocktail, dotted with celery and moistened with ginger mayo, a tender Potato Tamal, crowned with fermented coils of cabbage and hoja santa salsa, and large plates like Whole Fish a la Talla, Short Rib with scallions, cipollini onions and avocado, and Duck Enmoladas; hand-patted tortillas wrapped around silken shards of meat, and blanketed in red mole.
And if you don’t regularly indulge in dessert during lunch, it goes without saying that you should make an exception at Cosme (Perea is undoubtedly one of the biggest talents to hit the pastry scene in ages). That powdered, burnt Corn Husk Meringue, barely containing a lava burst of molten corn mousse, blended with mascarpone and heavy cream, is as awe-inspiring as ever, but there’s an equally intriguing Lemon Mousse, partnered with avocado, marcona almonds and coconut sorbet.
So don’t stress yourself if you can’t snag a table during dinner; no reasonable boss could deny you Cosme’s leisurely, one-of-a-kind lunch.