Ever since opening his bone broth window, Brodo, and releasing books like “A Good Food Day: Reboot Your Health with Food That Tastes Great,” it’s become clear that Marco Canora is intent on rejuvenating himself. And not just physically or emotionally, but professionally as well — parting ways with longtime partner Paul Grieco, lightening up the menu at his East Village flagship, Hearth, and turning the original location of Terroir into Fifty Paces, adding brodo bowls as bar snacks to complement an impressive collection of wines and sherries. And after barely more than a year, he’s elected to give Fifty Paces the heave-ho as well, transforming the East 12th Street space once again, into a turn-of-the-century inspired oyster room called Zadie’s.
As omnipresent in New York during the 1890’s and early 1900’s as hot dog carts are today, Canora emulates the menus at old-time oyster saloons by going far beyond the half shell. Sure, you’ll find four raw options — such as crisp Glidden Point, mild Saddle Rock, sweet Fishers Island and tiny Kushi — but the bivalve is also prepared baked (swiped in seaweed butter, and paired with ham, egg and leeks), broiled (along with sea lettuce, spring onion and parmesan), poached (in a beurre fondue of sherry, garlic and wakame), as well as steamed in a bath of herbaceous vermouth infused with lovage, pickled in a brine of tomato, cucumber and basil horseradish, and fried; dusted with fennel, dulse and lemon.
The selection is fleshed out with only six or so “Other Bites,” including shrimp cocktail, kelp coleslaw, caesar salad, top neck clams, and hunks of brown bread smeared with bluefish pate or anchovy butter. And then there’s the drinks list, tweaked to compliment the new, seafaring selections — think Chablis, Rose, “Song of the Sea” Sake, Elderberry-Apple Cider, and of course, tall cans of Montauk Summer Ale and Narragansett.
It seems Canora’s loss (of over 30 pounds; the product of good, clean eating) has definitely become our gain. This summer, you’ll want to head to the East Village to check out this excellent newcomer.
Zadie’s Oyster Room
413 E. 12th St. btwn. 1st & Ave. A