The movie theatre-cum-restaurant is already a big thing in Brooklyn; starting with Williamsburg’s Nighthawk Cinemas, continuing at Bushwick’s Syndicated, and expanding Downtown to Alamo Drafthouse, slated to open this summer. And now, it’s finally taken hold in Manhattan, with the recent debut of Metrograph Commissary, inspired by the in-studio eateries from Hollywood’s golden age.
Located on the once-gritty Lower East Side, the ambitious complex is seriously soigné; featuring a clubby restaurant with padded leather banquettes, a balcony bar and lounge serving whiskey sours and negronis, a bookstore stocked with film and art tomes, a candy shop and of course, a screening room, projecting archive quality 35mm and state of the art digital video.
But before taking in a movie, as varied as 1931’s “Party Husband,” a selection of Chuck Jones’ Warner Brothers shorts, and a Brian De Palma retrospective, featuring “Body Double,” “Mission: Impossible” and “Carlito’s Way,” you’ll want to fortify yourself with a meal. With plans to eventually offer breakfast, lunch, brunch and late night options — as well as special, themed “Writer’s Menus” and such — chef Dennis Spina (in his first out-of-Brooklyn foray) has kicked things off with dinner.
Sticking with time-honored classics, current offerings include Steak Tartare bound with fried capers and spiced mayonnaise, Waldorf Salad tossed with celery, apple, walnuts and crème fraiche, Trout slicked with brown butter and paired with asparagus and parsley, and Roasted Chicken, plated with spring peas and jus.
We have a feeling this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship with Metrograph Commissary.
7 Ludlow St.,