Chicago luminary Brendan Sodikoff (currently behind 12 Windy City concepts, including Bavette’s Bar & Boeuf, 3 Arts Club Cafe and Au Cheval), is looking to double his luck in the Big Apple, laying the groundwork for a possible East Coast dynasty with the opening of 4 Charles Prime Rib.
Situated in the West Village (not far away from the recently revived Chumley’s), the polished newcomer is an equally atmospheric clubby den, augmented with dark gleaming wood, lavish chandeliers and tufted leather booths, and similarly devoted to meat and potatoes fare. But while Chumley’s is essentially a pub for scholarly types, 4 Charles Prime Rib is a classic steakhouse for moneyed movers and shakers, offering $16 Negronis, $22 Old Raj Gin Martinis, a solid lineup of well-aged scotches, bourbons and whiskies, and $40-75 platters of slow roasted, salt crusted, USDA prime beef.
Though solely accompanied by natural jus and horseradish cream, the menu provides ample opportunity to carb load, with an entire section dedicated to tubers (think loaded baked potatoes, potatoes mashed with chicken fat, and wedge fries dipped in garlic aioli), as well as an entrée of cacio pepe carbonara pasta; an extra-indulgent noodle mashup of bacon-bombed bucatini, cloaked in black pepper and pecorino. As for starters and sides, you’ll find all of the usual steakhouse suspects, from shrimp cocktail and raw oysters to gem lettuce salad and creamed spinach — it’s a great thing when eating your greens involves mountains of blue cheese.
Yet the biggest draw might just be the burger; the spitting image of the patty that’s garnered national acclaim for (and commanded corresponding lines at) at Au Cheval. Billed as the “American Cheeseburger,” it features two smash style prime rib rounds, with optional farm egg and bacon. Chicago residents will surely scoff at the price tag ($24 all told, while their version averages $13), but that’s what you get after factoring in leather, mahogany, chandeliers and West Village rent.
4 Charles Prime Rib
4 Charles St.