Alice Waters may embody the wholesome, back-to-the-land aspect of California cuisine, but when it comes to its glitzy, glamorous, show bizzy side, there’s no better poster child than Wolfgang Puck. And while the enthusiastic Austrian may have expanded his brand to Bahrain, Singapore, and numerous American cities over the years, amazingly, it was only this past month that he finally staked a claim in L.A’s elite East Coast counterpoint, the Big Apple. And now that Puck’s finally here, he’s definitely not pulling any punches. Situated, appropriately enough, inside of the recently relocated Four Seasons Hotel on Church Street, the sixth global outpost of his lavish steakhouse, CUT, might just be his most ambitious yet.
Dramatically ornamented with jet black walls, gold curtains, red neon, and wine-dark club chairs, the ground-level space seats 86 in the main dining area, 32 in the lounge and 10 at the bar; more than enough room for the Financial District’s well-heeled movers and shakers. Open from 7am-11pm daily (power breakfasts, anyone?), the protein-focused establishment transitions from eggs in the early hours (French omelets, goat cheese frittatas, benedict with maple hollandaise and ham), straight on to hulking cuts of steak come noon; grilled over hard wood and charcoal and finished under a 1200-degree broiler. Options include Ribeyes, Sirloins and Filets; either Creekstone Farms’ 28 day-aged, Finger Lakes Farms Grass Fed, Snake River Farms’ American Wagyu, or the holy grail of Miyazaki Prefecture Pure Japanese Wagyu Beef.
But this time around, they occupy less than half of the menu — otherwise divided into “Starters,” “Salads,” “Pasture” and “Sea.” Which means one can expand on their steakhouse experience to include appealing additions such as Bone Marrow Flan with mushroom marmalade, as well as Heirloom Tomatoes arrayed with robiola, Double Lamb Chops drizzled with cilantro-mint raita, and a Pan Roasted Stonington Maine Lobster, anointed with black truffle sabayon.
And then there’s the “Rough Cuts” Bar and Lounge menu, proffering Kumamoto Oyster Gratin, Slow Braised Short Rib on bao buns, and Filet Mignon Vietnamese ‘Pho’ Steak Sandwiches until 1am at night. Wolfgang Puck may be a relative New York newcomer, but he knows how to please the City That Never Sleeps.
CUT NYC by Wolfgang Puck
99 Church St.