July 2007 Archives
July 31, 2007
Anything but your boilerplate neighborhood Italian, Gusto's outfitted in sleek black and white decor with Missoni striped barstools & vintage Viennese chandeliers. Owner Sasha Muniak (Mangia & Centro Vinoteca) not only has an eye for design, but also talented chefs to implement this West Village spot's seasonally-determined menu. While Gusto debuted with Jody Williams, Amanda Freitag has skillfully stepped in, bringing her Mediterranean sensibilities to the table. With a CIA education and considerable experience in some of New York's most prominent kitchens (Vong, Cesca & Il Buco), she ably spices up the rustic cuisine with parmesan & prosciutto beignets, artichoke & pig's feet-stuffed pork chop, and a roasted goat special on Wednesdays.
Status: Single/Married/Divorced
Single
What did you want to be when you grew up?
A dancer, I guess. I still went for a high endurance career!
What was your first job in food?
I was a busboy, well busgirl.
After working with Jean-Georges, what inspired you to venture off
into Italian cuisine from French?
I was first introduced to Mediterranean cuisine when working with Diane Forley and felt a natural affinity towards Italian. My grandfather also influenced that side of me (Roger Grazioli) as well as he always cooked for the holidays.
How have you integrated your extensive knowledge of French
techniques into Gusto's seasonally-skewed Italian cuisine?
In a lot of our sauces and meat cookery.
You've worked with many notable chefs – Tom Valenti, Jean-Georges
and Sara Jenkins – what were some of your more memorable experiences in their
kitchens?
Jean-Georges really helped me develop my palate. Diane Forley taught me how to appreciate the product itself; Tom Valenti showed me how to be bold with flavors; and Sara, I will be forever grateful for all her lessons. I learned so much about Italy from her and pasta, and I always think about her when I am making pasta!
You took over the helm of the kitchen after Jody Williams. Was
that at all intimidating and how did you tweak the menu to reflect your kitchen
personality?
Taking over a kitchen after another chef is always challenging. I
always loved Jody's food and was so lucky to have stepped into this role. The
menu reflects the way I love to cook, in a nurturing simple style. I cook
what I would want to eat, seasonal and local with Italian integrity.
Gusto has a 60's sleek black & white design with happily
yellow-tinged accents. Do you find that the décor ever influences your
dishes?
No, I feel it just compliments the dishes.
There's obviously a bit of an Italian trattoria trend happening in
NYC…what do you make of it?
I think the Mediterranean diet is the best way to
eat and a lot of New Yorkers are aware of this and the Italian trattoria trend
provides for the demand. And besides Italian in
What's your favorite dish on the menu, and why?
You know this is
tough to choose. I really love the daily specials we do, but the scallops on the
menu is one of my favorites. It has everything sweet, salty, bitter &
creamy, yum!
What's your least favorite dish (and yes, you must pick one)?
I have
no problem picking one - carciofi alla giudea (fried artichokes). It is a staple on our menu and
everyone loves it except me!
What is your junk food of choice?
I rarely eat junk food; I really
love pizza of any kind at all hours of the day. I have a weakness for chocolate
chip cookies that I will never grow out of!!
Other than your own, what's your favorite restaurant in NYC?
My
favorite restaurant is "Al di La" in Park Slope,
What culinary trend do you most embrace?
I love the fact that chefs
are becoming more aware of local, sustainable cuisine and going a little more
"green". We, as an industry, can really make a difference on the
environment.
What trend do you wish would die already?
Pork belly everything. I
love it too, but enough already.
What's next on the horizon for you? Any new ventures or restaurants
in the works? Spill the beans…
It is all about GUSTO!
Address: 60 Greenwich St, nr. Seventh Ave.
Phone: 212.924.8000
Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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July 30, 2007
As I plow through the perpetual blizzard of new eateries, I've discovered many a dish that aught be devoured immediately. Thus, I'm officially kicking off my newly inducted weekly edition of "Dish of the Week", or in this particular case...dessert.
Seeing that summer's in full and much of the New York dining set have, for better or worse, made the Hamptons their weekend escape, I've sifted through the lot and happened upon a dessert so divinely dreamy it's just wrong. That's right...dreamy. While the parking lot mayhem at dining fixture Nick & Toni's may compel you to continue farther East to The Clam Bar in Amangansett (a worthwhile & laid back alternative), the peach & walnut tarte is inarguably worth clamoring for a parking spot. As we sunk our spoons into the gooey depths of this blissfully warm nibble of summer, silence fell over our table. A dense, flaky pastry shell was the perfect platform for a mess of supple chunks of fresh peaches & crunchy bits of walnut, all topped with a intense nectarine ice cream. But pastry chef Molly Harding didn't stop there. Oh no, she went beyond the call of duty, drizzling the already toothsome creation with caramel sauce. While dinner at Nick & Toni's is anything but a bargain (an appetizer of sheep's milk ricotta, speck & honey goes for $18), the nearly transporting whisper of this $12 sweet nothing seems like a bargain.
Address: 136 North Main St., East Hampton
Phone: 631.324.3550
Weekly Hamptons Fix: The Beach
Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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July 25, 2007
I'll admit: The Meatpacking District has most recently evoked unfortunate memories of emasculated steaks at STK, inebriated hordes swarming Tenjune and many a wintry night battling for a taxi. Revel has revived my hope for sanctuary in the midst of the madness. Once known only as the "Bar With No Name", this spot has recently gotten an actual name, a menu and a phone number to boot. Call me old-fashioned, but personally I'm partial to the reservation system and food. A girl's gotta eat. Owner Paolo Secondo (Barolo & I Tre Merli) has implemented an international menu with delicate Mediterranean undertones. With a backyard garden that seats 80 and dishes, the likes of spaghetti with lobster and bay scallops with chestnut honey & bacon, the Meatpacking District suddenly doesn't seem so daunting. That is, until you try to hail a cab at the end of the evening. In fact, it feels a little like Europe in the summertime.
Address: 10 Little West 12th St., btwn. Ninth Ave. & Washington St.
Phone: 212.645.5369
Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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July 24, 2007
Although Butter is no doubt better known for its swanky downstairs lounge, a nocturnal playground for the glitterati & New York's trendiest, but if you venture above ground, you'll happen upon a serene, forested landscape with an accomplished chef, modestly dazzling diners with her New American menu. Since 2005, Alex Guarnaschelli has put a unique spin on the driven, green market cuisine at this East Village spot. As the daughter of successful cookbook author, Maria Guarnaschelli, food seems to run in the family. With a culinary education from La Varenne in France, Alex has traipsed through many a prominent kitchen: the likes of three star Michelin-rated Guy Savoy, Daniel and LA's Patina. Now at home in NYC and Butter's kitchen, she churns out such signatures as cavatappi pasta with spicy colorado lamb sausage & yellow tomatoes and autumn mushroom papillote with goat cheese & fresh thyme.
What did you want to be when you grew up?
I wanted to be a marine biologist or work in a museum restoring Renaissance paintings.
How did you get into food?
My father was cooking Chinese food as a hobby – hanging ducks in the dining room for 3 days, making tea eggs. My mother was baking breads, making trifles, sausages, you name it…It was inevitable that the profession find me….
What was your first job in food?
My first job in food was slicing strawberries and making Crème Anglaise at Larry Forgione’s An American Place.
How did you end up in the kitchen at Butter?
The job at Butter found me, actually. I was a private chef and got hired by the General Manager in a pinch!
What's your favorite dish on the menu right now?
All in all, the Cavatappi Pasta with the Lamb Sausage is my favorite dish.
What's your least favorite dish on the menu and yes, you must pick one...
Right now, it’s the Tuna with Pickled Pear Vinaigrette.
What's your junk food of choice?
Oreo Cookies, Cool Ranch Doritos, & Funions. I like crunch…
Other than your own, what's your favorite restaurant in NYC?
Forty Carrots in the basement of Bloomingdale's.
What culinary trend do you most embrace?
Sustainable food choices.
What trend do you most despise?
Uninformed use of the otherwise interesting molecular gastronomy.
You're not only devising Butter's edible selection, but also a rather impressive and eclectic wine list. How did you learn so much about wine and what was your inspiration behind it?
I wanted a list that jived with the food and showcased the quality of fine wines, both domestic and European wines. I am still learning all about wine but the only way I have found I can learn is by reading and tasting, tasting, tasting…
Any new projects on the horizon for you? Do spill the beans...
No new restaurant ventures right now – I am having a baby so the expansion of the horizons is on temporary hold for the time being…I am working on a few other things, though, that I cannot divulge at this time.
Address: 415 Lafayette, nr. 4th St.
Phone: 212.253.2828
Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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July 23, 2007
Some of Manhattan's finest chefs jetsetted to the Hamptons for the weekend to partake in James Beard Foundation's illustrious Chefs & Champagne 2007. There was double cause to pop the bubbly as this year's festivities toasted both Charlie Trotter and the 20th Anniversary of The James Beard Foundation.
As the sun set over Wolffer Estate Vineyard in Sagaponack, foodies, socialites and the restaurant elite - Joe Bastianich, Steve Hanson & Martha Stewart - feasted on a lush spread of chilled corn soup, salads of sugar snap peas & peaches, oysters and a hefty bounty from the sea. If you weren't there to sample the first-rate fare, I won't dangle dishes now past, but highlights did include Ben Pollinger's (Oceana) delicate citrus-tinged oyster ceviche and local Hamptons celebrity chef, Michael Rozzi's (Della Femina) refined riff on lobster salad delightfully peppered with springy corn & fava beans. And in an ironic twist of fate, Tim Love swept the popular vote, crushing the competition with grilled lamb chops rubbed with Lonesome Dove's signature game rub. While Lonesome Dove failed to make waves in NYC - shuttering its doors after only five months - guests, including Martha Stewart, couldn't get enough of the tasty chops.
For dessert, there was no debate: As usual, Nicole Kaplan (Del Posto) stole the show with a naughty chocolate budino (pudding) with addictively crunchy chocolate streusel, finished with an almond & chocolate biscotti. Of course, there was no shortage of wine & champagne - the best of the lot was Wolffer's very own 2006 rose.
Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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July 22, 2007
Address: 472 9th Ave., at 36th Street
Phone: 212-695-9920
Cuisine: Modern Thai
Vibe: Buddhist-Zen
Hours: Sun-Thu: 11:30am-11pm, Fri-Sat: 11:30am-12am
First Bite Impressions: Unexpected delight
Note to Self: Order the mojito
Don't Miss Dish: Tamarind Duck- Crispy duck served
with smoked tamarind soy sauce over a bed of baby bok choy
Price: Appetizers, $5-10; Entrees, $9-18.
Reservations: Reservations recommended.
A diamond in the rough you might say, at 36th Street & 9th Avenue there lives a quaint and nondescript new Thai restaurant that is anything but mundane.
Woks abound with jumbo shrimp - plump & delicious - glass noodle pad thai's and the duck I dare contend is as crispy on the outside & juicy on the inside as any you'll find in Chinatown. Pad Thai spring rolls are double-rolled for an extra crunchy effect and even gimmicky pork poppers with were well-matched to a homemade fire sauce. Just when we thought this little Thai delight was simply too good to be true, a mound of fried ice cream came to the table. Healthy? Ha. Creative? Not really. Coldstone Creamery would've hit the spot, but I had to finish what I'd started. Sure, it's be a schlep to the rather unscenic 9th Avenue hood, but the Thai at this newbie might just be worth the trek.
July 20, 2007
Address: 406 E. 64th Street, at 1st Ave.
Phone: 212.750.0434
Cuisine: American Nouveau
Scene: Upper Eastsiders
Hours: Dinner, Mon-Sun, 5:30pm-11pm; Lunch, Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm; Brunch, Sun 11am-3pm.
First Bite Impressions: Simply inconsistent
Don't Miss Dish: Salt Cod and Gnocchi Ragout
Don’t Bother Dish: Bay Shrimp and
Chorizo Risotto, Proscuitto Wrapped Pork Tenderloin
Price: Appetizers, $11; Entrees, $25.
Restaurant Girl Rates:
6 for food, 6 for atmosphere
Reservations: Accepted & recommended for prime-time.
Tucked into a quiet railroad-style nook on Manhattan's Upper East Side, modestly emerges the modern American Solace. Unlike most restaurants that razzle dazzle us to garner attention, husband-and-wife duo, David & Mary Regueiro have instead set out to lull their "suburban" clientele.
Decor
The space is simple, perhaps to a fault: creamy leather banquettes wind their way around the edges of the dark wood beam-accented minimalistic dining room, all washed in a subdued glow. And then there's the view to the back garden, which drastically contrasts with the all too grown-up interior. Beyond French doors leading out to a back garden, lay a flurry of Pellegrino-branded umbrellas that hover over your basic beer garden-type furniture, and left me wondering if Solace was in cahoots with the sparkling water brand. Unfortunately, it was raining so we were relinquished to the indoors, where we sat among grown-ups to dine on an eclectic menu that spanned the continents.
Menu
An eclectic hodgepodge of Italian, French, American and raw bar offerings, the menu is diverse and somewhat random: poached pacific coast oysters, an eggplant , goat cheese and tomato terrine, And of course, there are the standard-issued, featuring seared salmon, roasted chicken, sirloin and grilled fishes.
Food
The menu is unequivocally & unfortunately, hit or miss. We landed on some well-executed dishes; a chunky tuna tartare finished with mango, chile, and a faintly sweet soy sauce; properly briny Rhode Island oysters, excellently matched with an inventive cucumber & apple mignonette. Better still, was a sea cod & gnocchi ragout - a truly transporting dish that jetted us off to Provence with an impeccably doughy gnocchi, bathed in a fresh bath of salty capers, olives and just-plucked san marzano tomatoes. Don't get me wrong: there are some excellent dishes to be had, they're just scattered amidst too many mediocre ones.
The bay shrimp in a chorizo risotto were outright fishy and its supposed lobster butter saucing untraceable. Then there was the wildly unremarkable & dried-out pork tenderloin, cloaked in an even drier prosciutto alongside overcooked mission figs. Warm apples sandwiched between a thick pastry sandwich disturbingly evoked visions of McDonald's baked "apple pie" pocket- not in a good way.
Solace results in a simultaneously serene & yet dull dining experience with too few notables and not enough ambiance to constitute a dining draw. But if you live in the neighborhood and have gotten your hands on a babysitter, it's nothing to turn your nose up at. Hey, the al fresco Sunday brunch is worthwhile. If nothing else, the pleasant resurfacing of Joseph Scalice, once March (most recently Nish's) wine director, is a plesant & ironic one at a BYO. Still, it's not bad for the 'burbs.
Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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July 19, 2007
Though Top Chef heartthrob Sam Talbot was initially slated to oversee the kitchen at the soon-to-be Spitzer's Corner, that die was shortly uncast after supposed diva-like behavior from the TV celebrity chef.
Enter Chef Michael Cooperman (formerly of Le Bernadin glory), to finesse the American gastropub fare with a destination-worthy raw bar. Things are looking good for Will & Rob Shamlian's imminent eatery, pleasingly outfitted with zinc countertops, retractable glass awnings & plenty of outdoor seating.
Spitzer's Corner intends to keep things casual in the front bar room with 40-plus beers on tap and tricked-out bar snacks- the likes of pork fat popcorn. Seeing as an alumnus of the Le Bernadin school of cooking now holds court in the kitchen, I'd say they're in good hands. But judgment day won't officially come until the first week of August...
Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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July 17, 2007
On the eve of P*ONG's official New York Times review, we thought it supremely apropos to check in with Pichet Ong, the owner & executive chef of NYC's newest dessert bar. Who knows how many stars Bruni's willing to stamp on this sleek Chelsea nook, but the zealous pastry set have already given Ong an overwhelming nod of approval. Unlike other pastry bandwagoners, Ong doesn't rest on his sweet creations, but instead does an impressive job with the savory bites: stilton souffle, escarole green goddess salad & wagyu carpaccio with shiso pesto. But to deny yourself dessert at P*ONG would be downright senseless; Especially when the offerings are as exotically sinful as chevre cheesecake croquette, miso ice cream and an extra virgin olive oil cake sandwich with wasabi candy and
strawberries.
What did you want to be when you grew up?
More grown up than I already am? I wanted
to be an architect when I was younger and even went to school for it.
What was your first job in food?
The Kosher kitchen at the Brandeis University dining hall.
Are you nervous about being reviewed?
I didn't expect to be reviewed. I don't really want to be reviewed. There's no need.
After working with Jean-Georges, what
inspired you to venture off on your own and open a dessert bar?
At Jean-Georges, I did savory. Then I left to do pastry for Jeffrey Zakarian when he opened Patroon and Rick Moonen at RM. Along the way, I went back and created the dessert menus for Jean-Georges at 66 & Spice Market. But I wanted to have my own business where all my
visual and intangible ideas can be realized. Hence P*ONG, which is not
necessarily a dessert bar.
Yes, I do worry that it might
fail. But then again this seems to be the common thought among all types
of restaurants.
Actually, I do them both simultaneously. I start
with the seasonal ingredients I’d like to feature on the menu, and then create
dishes from there, not necessarily starting of with a genre.
How have you
integrated your time spent abroad - Singapore, Thailand, and Hong Kong - into P*ONG's menu?
Being exposed to so
much resources in terms of ingredients I discovered in Southeast Asia and everywhere else, I incorporate them into familiar dishes that I love.
Most people don’t
probably don’t know that you have a masters degree in architecture from UC
Berkeley. That’s quite a career change –
what was the impetus to move to cooking?
I graduated at the time when computers were being introduced
to architecture and design. (I think I’m giving away my age now.) I
didn't want a desk job, I like to work with my hands.
I love the foie gras
brulee on pistachio biscotti with cherries and biscotti jelly. It seems
that every pastry chef loves foie gras, including myself, it's something I put
on the menu so I can have it everyday.
The space was designed by Andre Kikoski. This was
based upon a lot of visual shapes, styles, and colors that I love.
What's your least
favorite dish (and yes, you must pick one)?
Least favorite might
be the Vietnamese coffee and mango tapioca affogato with walnut cookie
crumbs. Let's just say a lot of people who walk into P*ONG expect Asian
desserts and hence. they aim straight towards the tapioca dessert. It is a
popular one and I love the dish anyway.
Potato chips and corn
chips from Lay's.
What culinary trend
do you most embrace?
There are too many to
mention. But I have dim sum (almost) every Monday when I’m off. Dim sum
in Chatham Square in Chinatown.
The dessert (or pastry chef-driven
business) trend.
What trend do you
wish would die already?
I believe there is
always room for more of anything in the business.
What's next on the
horizon for you? Any new ventures or
restaurants in the works? Spill the
beans…
I'm actually doing a cupcake shop next door: vanilla, chocolate, yuzu & cinammon will be my staples. I want to add a little salt & spice to my take on them. I'll also be doing seasonal specials, but those are my everyday flavors.
What's your take on frosting then?
I prefer butter over shortening, better flavor.
Any other projects in the works?
A bakery...followed by a Chinese restaurant maybe.
Address: 150 W. 10th Street
Phone: 212.928.0898
Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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July 13, 2007
Summer just got sweeter as
Dylan's Candy Bar launches the first in a series of mini candy bars on Main Street in East Hampton. What was Nuts About Chocolate - a long-standing candy store in the chic village of East Hampton - is officially set to morph into Dylan's premiere candy bar on August 4th. Dylan, the candy girl herself, tells us, "there will be more to boutique venues to come in the imminent future: Miami, Austin, resort towns and many more cities across America". The Hamptons store will deal in what else, but candy, of course. Candy bins, homemade ice creams, fudge, cotton candy, pre-packaged gift baskets and other private label goods will stock the shelves of this cozy nook. And for the toniest of folks, they'll conveniently be "candy-to-go" to cap off the haughtiest of clam bakes. As if parking wasn't difficult enough, come August it will be nearly impossible.
Dylan's Mini Candy Bar
Address: 52 Main Street, East Hampton
Opening: Beginning of August
Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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July 13, 2007
The moment has finally arrived; well, almost. While Townline BBQ
doesn't officially open to the public until July 19th, we've managed to get our
hands on the menu. But first, let's do a little background check: Owner Mark Smith & executive chef Joe Realmuto (of Nick & Toni's Hamptons fame) set out on an extensive roadtrip across Texas to sample the Lone Star State's best barbecue joints. After doing their proper due diligence - pitmaster Joe Realmuto completed an intensive bbq class, properly mastering the artistry of low & slow cooking - the two have returned to the beach to peddle their newfound 'cue cooking. They even picked up a few already christened smokers to get the job done right.
While Alison's by the Beach is all but a memory, what's emerged in its place is a down & dirty roadhouse pitstop in Sagaponack for weary weekenders to feast and do a little finger lickin'. Like nothing the Hamptons has seen before, the space is nothing less than down & dirty: the space is decked in unfinished woodbeam ceilings, long communal tables with wood benches to match and dangling bare bulb fixtures. It's even got indoor/outdoor seating and a centrally located hand-washing station to boot. Let's indulge an interior shot:
Behold: all things smoked, rubbed. Let's have a little look at the menu, shall we?
Address: 3593 Townline Road, Sapagonpack NY
Phone: 631.537.2271
For further Beach Reading: The Beach
Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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July 12, 2007
There's been much ado about The Spotted Pig, the West Village's perpetually packed gastropub, that spawned a trend in militantly seasonal comfort food spots. With a massive spread of all things offal, masterful ricotta gnudi and a greatly sought-after Roquefort burger, Ken Friedman & Chef April Bloomfield has indeed taken New York City by storm. (Not an easy feat). Bloomfield seamlessly mingles Italian cooking with simple bar food techniques, resulting in anything from a slow-roasted beef shin with polenta to a simple, but exquisite salad of roasted pumpkin & shaved pecorinio. It's no wonder people will wait over two hours to snag a table at The Spotted Pig: Bloomfield's resume reads such classic establishments as River Café, Chez Panisse and Kensington Place.
Status: Single/Married/Divorced
Single
What did you want to be when you grew up?
A police woman. I wanted to be a copper. I used to watch Cagney & Lacey, Chips, & NYPD Blue. It's ironic because I actually wanted to be a NYC cop, but thought that would never happen and now I'm here.
What was your first job in food?
Dishwashing in a small restaurant in Birmingham. I think it was called The Mill.
What was your experience like at Kensington Place?
It was great; simple, modern European cuisine. It was a small kitchen because it was only 1991 and the food scene in England had just begun to bloom. But it expanded as the cuisine quickly caught on.
How did you Ken Friedman manage to lure you over from London’s River Cafe to open the Spotted Pig?
He knew Jamie Oliver, who gave Ken my name. He brought me over for this great jetset weekend. He got me a limo, put me up in a hotel overlooking Union Square and I just loved it. We went to Otto, Lupa & Babbo all in one night. I was stuffed.
Why did you leave the rather illustrious River Cafe?
I was ready for a change, wanted to try something different.
How do you like living in NYC?
I love it here. I have no plans to go back to England right now.
Would you say you’re preoccupied with the almighty pig?
I like pork a lot. I'm British: we eat a lot of pork. My mom used to cook these perfect pork loins with the most amazing cracklings. I'd chomp down on crackling, my mouth full of potatoes & pork. It's making me hungry for that right now.
What's your favorite dish on The Spotted Pig’s menu right now?
The carrot salad.
What’s your least favorite dish on the menu (and yes, you must pick one)?
Oh, please. No, that’s not fair. We only opened The Spotted Pig just a few years ago. I'm not that bored yet.
Where do you get your inspiration for putting out a new menu every single day?
I try to change the menu as much as I can; I stick with the seasons. If I see something in the market or in another restaurant, whatever inspires me. Sometimes, I'll be reading a cookbook over a cup of tea and see something new I like. I try to eat out at least once a week.
Not many chefs can so seamlessly mingle Italian & English pub food. Was that an organic union for you?
Well, I’ve worked in both kinds of restaurants, so it wasn’t that difficult. So yes, I guess it was organic.
I won’t name names, but you’ve obviously started a gastro-pub trend in these parts? Flattered? What do you make of your followers?
It’s a good thing if people are doing it well. If more people can eat in a nice, relaxed atmosphere, but still have wonderful food that’s affordable - that's great.
Were you ever worried that the American palate wouldn’t take to dishes like roll mops or devils on horseback (or even know what the hell those bar snacks are exactly)?
No, I just didn’t think about it. I wanted to do it and I know New Yorkers are very receptive to new stuff. We sell a lot of those dishes.
What is your junk food of choice?
Spicy buffalo wings.
Other than your own, what's your favorite restaurant in NYC?
Well, I love Prune. I also love Rai Rai Ken, because it’s really cheap. They cook the pork right in front of you. Get the ramen.
Are there any trends you wish would die already?
No, not really.
What's next on the horizon for you? Any new ventures or restaurants in the works? Spill the beans…
Yes, we just signed a lease on 10th Avenue, between Del Posto & Craftsteak. It's a fish restaurant. It may be English style, European. I don’t think it will open for awhile, probably January or February.
Do you ever think of opening another Spotted Pig?
Maybe in the future, but not right now.
Address: 314 West 11th St., at Greenwich St.
Phone:212.620.0393
Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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July 11, 2007
Not to sound ungrateful for thousands of free samples - nearly every girl's dream - but after awhile, olives & energy drinks just don't mix. The circus has officially left town: after sorting through the goodies, I suppose it's time to ponder the future of food:
1) Vegetarians may no longer give caviar the cold shoulder; Sea Gem Caviar has unveiled an entirely seaweed-based line of kelp caviar. Sure, we’d prefer beluga to salmon-flavored eggs, but seeing as we've got no black market connections at this time, salmon, wasabi or beluga flavor might just do the trick. And there's that one little edge Sea Gem's got over tried-and-true caviar: seaweed's one of the world's healthiest foods - lowers cholesterol, strengthens the immune system, blah, blah.
2) While we're not above brown bagging our chardonnay, Wine By The Glass just devised a perilously easy way to imbibe on the run. Leave it to the Italians to come up with convenient, prepackaged cups (plastic or glass) of Chardonnay, Merlot or Rose, all for a measly $6.99. Take them to the beach, on a picnic, to the office - whatever gets you through the day.
3) The latest in the artificial sweetener craze: Maple Syrup Flakes. The aisles of the Jacob Javitz Center were riddled with these all-natural & organic way to get your sugar fix, top off your yogurt, cereal and salmon.
4) Pop goes the…candy bar? Yes, that’s right. Along with a parade of popcorn flavors, Dale & Thomas have introduced a line of chocolate candy bars riddled with exploding candy bits. No, it has nothing to do with popcorn...at all. Think Pop Rocks meets Hershey’s…in some bizarre-o world.
5) Salt & pepper just got another accompaniment: edible gold dust. If you haven't already, you'll soon be seeing bartenders and chefs alike adding a bit of bling to cocktails & desserts. Gold Gourmet now offers little gold shakers, so you can even gild your beer and chinese take-out.
6) A practically impossible feat, Taste has miraculously managed to bring a bit of elegance to the canned food section of the supermarket. Inside their smart blue cans, they pack in the freshest gourmet ingredients, including San Marzano tomatoes, crabmeat, salmon and a variety of other selections. Taste's quality goods are already being sold at Dean & DeLuca and Fairway as well as used by many a prominent city chef.
Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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July 10, 2007
Midtown's Hotel Mela hopes to lure midtowners to upscale French-inflected Vietnamese at newly-minted restaurant Saju. Co-owner & restaurateur Phillippe Bernard plays up the cuisine's traditional emphasis: green papaya & shrimp salad, pho bo and lemongrass tiger shrimp. What used to be headline-worthy is now just par for the course as Saju waits with countless others for the city's approval to wheel & deal in alcohol. However, this may prove quite NEWSWORTHY: insider intelligence reveals debut strife as the original chef, Thao Nguyen (formerly the chef at Bao 111 & Bao Noodles, and interestingly also the wife of Mai House's Michael Bao Huynh) who devised Saju's menu, has abruptly exited stage left. Thao Nguyen has been conveniently replaced by Hung Nguyen (any relation?). As Eater deftly observed, it's all very "curious".
A source writes in: "The new chef is Hung Nguyen. He is the sous chef of Thao Nguyen. Prior, Hung Nguyen worked for Jovia, not Bouley or Jean-Georges. Where did NY magazine get that information from? Also, Vietnamese Bouillabaisse is Thao's dish. Thao Nguyen left because the owner did want to pay her as promised. He claimed that he did not get the liquor license yet, so he didn't have the money - smart to replace Thao with the sous chef, take the menu and recipes." - Restaurant Girl inbox.
When I called Saju's PR firm to officially confirm or deny, they claimed ignorance as to the identity of the new chef. Things got even more dubious when I rang up the restaurant, resulting in this curt reply: "Just come in and try the food."
Not 'til we get to the bottom of this. I think there's more to this story - don't you? Call me curious. Does anyone know something? Oh, do tell...
Address: 120 West 44th St., near Sixth Ave.
Phone: 212.997.7258
Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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July 10, 2007
The 53rd Summer Fancy Food Show was nothing less than utter madness, but really, what do you expect when you combine food, free samples and thousands of people? After sifting through the newest wreckage in gourmet junk foods, olive oils and chocolates, we managed to stumble upon quite a few notables that just may change the face of food as we know it:
1) Artisanal Chips - The British are coming...one potato chip at a time. Tyrrell's home-grown & home-fried potato chips are damn tasty and while not healthy (at all), they do boast 20% less fat & all-natural ingredients. But the real clincher here are this endearingly small Herefordshire farm's seasonal flavors: asparagus-seasoned chips in celebration of summer and game chips for autumn/winter, of course. Yep. Duck, orange & ginger-tweaked chips apparently serve as the perfect cold weather snack. For dessert, Food Should Taste Good (that's the brand's actual name) has launched a line of gourmet tortilla chips, which oddly enough include chocolate tortilla chips, simultaneously salty & sweet.
2) Vineyard Vinegars - At-home chefs can now toss and even pair their salads with a little vino. If you tend to top off your local greens with a little manchego cheese, Casa Pons' Merlot Bittersweet Vinegar will pair perfectly. Or perhaps you'd prefer goat cheese, then Bittersweet Chardonnay might be better suited to the occassion. Oh yes, food just got even more complicated.
3) Gummy Gross-out - What used to be fiction has become a
curious and slightly foul reality, thanks to Jelly Belly's new line of
Harry Potter-inspired flavors. Not so appetizing flavors include:
booger, dirt, grass, earthworm and vomit. Trust me, they for better or worse hit the nail
on the head.
4) Olives On The Run - Oloves exclusive & admittedly
ingenious little grab n' go bags come replete with exactly 14 olives. This
Barcelonian company boasts black Aragon olives from the northern region of Spain,
available in both original flavor & habanero chile. While not yet
available to the general public, Oloves intends on lining both gourmet
& convenient store shelves.
5) Beyond Extra Virgin - In the not so distant future, you may find yourself dipping into an entirely new realm of oils. High blood pressure? Dip your bread in flaxseed oil. Do you long to stop the signs of aging? Drizzle a little hemp oil over your arugula. Who knows? We may soon be seeing this little trend in restaurants sooner than you think. Please don't replace the bread basket with carrots & celery. No, seriously.
Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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July 9, 2007
As I basked in one of summer's simplest pleasures - Carvel's soft serve vanilla ice cream with rainbow sprinkles while staring into a store freezer filled with Fudgie The Whale cakes - I realized we sometimes forget the edible warhorses that have transcended the very notion of food fads. And before I descend into the chaos that is the Fancy Food Show at the Jacob Javits Center to uncover the latest fashions, I thought it only appropriate to honor the classics and reflect on summer's greatest hits:
1) Carvel's Vanilla Soft Serve Ice Cream - Top it with rainbow sprinkles or those divinely addictive chocolate crunchies, even the most devout chocolate snobs are hard-pressed to turn their nose up at this custardy creation.
2) The Lobster Roll - While it's become a somewhat controversial of late, no one can claim ownership over the mayonaissey splendor of a doughy roll cradling plump chunks of lobster meat, diced celery and yes, lots of mayonnaise.
3) Strawberry Shortcake - A foolproof dessert for even the most pastry-challenged, simply slice strawberries, add whipped cream and sandwich between a biscuit or two slices of white cake. This dessert was so beloved that American Greetings built an entire line of Strawberry Shortcake dolls. If you've moved beyond packaged shortcake, this is a great old-fashioned shortcake recipe.
4) Hebrew National Hot Dogs - They're snappy, juicy, 100% beef and an absolute rite of passage for any baseball fan.
5) Corn On The Cob - One of nature's most brilliant inventions remains happily brandless. Simply coat in butter, parmesan cheese or paprika and you're good to go.
6) Lemonade - Ideally fresh-squeezed, it's a wonder how refreshing lemons, sugar & water can taste.
7) The Fudgsicle - After sampling the newer versions, I still stand by the tried-and-true original.
8) Iced tea - Sweetened, unsweetened, herbal, a wedge of lemon; whatever you fancy, it's practically synonymous with summer.
9) Soft Pretzels - Despite all the wickedly fanciful dishes I've sampled, I still delight in a warm salt-studded pretzel. My personal pick, Philly's, but a little mustard or ketchup and any kind will do.
10) The Chipwich - A chocolate chip cookie ice cream sandwich rolled in chocolate chips...does life get better than this? I think not.
Stay with us for continuing coverage of the Fancy Food Show...
Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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July 5, 2007
It's about time someone step up and open a nonchain restaurant in the gastronomically-challenged desert that is Midtown West. Amidst a blizzard of Starbucks & Cosi types, a new sushi spot will soon grace the forlorn area with its raw wares. Owner Udi, former manager of Sushi Samba on Park, has migrated uptown to launch Omido, a sushi house of his very own. A departure from their usual industrial chic design, AvroKo has stepped in to transform the former electronics store into a sophisticated spot with warm, wood-paneled accents and a sushi bar. Udi has stolen chef Taka away from Sushi Samba to run the kitchen, which will dish out traditional Japanese cooked fare as well as sushi. The only catch: diners will have to maneuver their way through the "Late Show with David Letterman" masses that line up nightly outside the adjacent theater.
OPENING DATE: June 8th
Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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July 2, 2007
Address: 100 E. 63rd. St., at Park Ave.
Phone: 212.644.1900
Cuisine: Summer-inspired American
Scene: Mixed bag
Hours: Dinner, Sun-Thu, 5:30-11pm, Fri & Sat, 5:30-11:30pm; Lunch, Mon-Fri, 11:30am- 3pm; Brunch, Fri & Sat, 11am-3pm.
First Bite Impressions: Splendidly summer
Don't Miss Dish: Soft shell crabs with strawberries, soy & avocado
Price: Appetizers, $16; Entrees, $32.
Reservations: Accepted & recommended for prime-time.
Park Avenue Cafe had fallen into the category of steadfast old-timers, wrestling with the demands of a new generation of diner, who eat as stylishly as they dress, while still trying to appease seasoned regulars. That is, until Alan Stillman's son recently took over the restaurant's reigns. Michael Stillman first tempted fate when he transformed the seafaring Manhattan Ocean Club into Quality Meats, a chic new steakhouse species.
At Park Avenue Summer, he's again ventured out on a limb with a restaurant that takes the notion of the four seasons quite literally. Presently, Park Avenue embodies summer: the space wears sunny yellow-lacquered panels, dressed up with tortoise shells, white leather banquettes and beachy whitewashed wood boards. Park Avenue Summer will fall into autumn, then winter and spring; so will the menu and the decor. AvroKO has admirably broken out of their signature industrial chic rut, shaping a beachy, yet polished atmosphere that can be taken down and re-imagined four times a year. There's the elephant in the room that begs the question: how financially viable could building a set for every season be? Time will soon tell. But one thing's for sure...
There's nothing more fashionable than being new, and that's exactly what Michael Stillman is banking on: the perpetually virginal restaurant. As for the menu, Craig Koketsu, who will also maintain his position at Quality Meats, has devised an appropriately seafood-streaked menu with a generous sprinkling of summer's best: sea scallops with peaches & granola, grilled langoustines and lamb chops paired with barbecued cherries.
Summer arrives in the crusty form of warm, sea salt-coated semolina rolls delightfully stocked with fresh corn kernels. Man could live on bread and water alone here, but best not as the menu reveals Craig Koketsu at his best, arousing the most bewitching subtleties from creatures of the sea. Petals of fluke, simple and clean, sneak surprisingly potent blasts of flavor from dabs of intense plum & cilantro paste, each perfectly capped with a crispy wisp of sunchoke. A crunchy green & yellow bean salad terrifically benefits from chewy chunks of dried apricot & crushed almonds. Soft shell crab gets downright dreamy when flash-fried in a white soy-infused batter, brightened by the gentle sweetness of strawberries & passion fruit, then immediately mellowed by smooth avocado and peppery slivers of jicama.
You could easily drift among appetizers and find yourself perfectly content, but if you do venture into entrees, you'll be richly rewarded with a juicy filet mignon sandwich; apricot becomes the perfect foil for intensely rich lamb tenderloin; and properly creamy lobster salad is polished off with a zesty kick of orange-lemon vinaigrette.
The only true disappointment I happened upon were bland medallions of yuzu-infused tuna, all but overwhelmed by gluey puddles of aioli. Amidst an exciting collection of inspired dishes, it fell remarkably flat.
Dessert redolently reeks of summer as well. Veteran pastry chef, Richard Leach, expertly executes on original interpretations of sweet classics. (He also engineers the perilously addictive bread basket). The most enticing of all, was a velvety blueberry ice cream that accompanied a fluffy semolina cake & silky-smooth panna cotta with aromatic undercurrents of lemongrass. Leach's grown up riff on thin mint cookies arrives as a trio featuring an airy chocolate & peppermint custard, an ice cream pop robed in dark chocolate shell and a decadent chocolate bar. Leach makes it impossible to skip dessert and even more so, to pick just one when delivering fried corn pudding fritters draped in juicy in roasted peaches and an uncharacteristically light sweet corn panna cotta.
It's pricey. But then again, you wouldn't expect anything less when dining on Park Avenue.
Until we eat again,
Restaurant Girl
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