Pages Navigation Menu
Categories Navigation Menu

French Cuisines

Inside Acme’s Unexpected Culinary Revamp

Neighborhood: , , | Featured in First Bite, Hottest Newcomers, Restaurant, Restaurant Spotting, Reviews

Perusing the recently revamped menu at Acme, it’s evident that Mads Refslund — co-founder of the exceedingly influential Noma — has categorically left the building. Instead of esoteric New Nordic offerings like hay-roasted whole sunchokes and “burlap sack” lobster with wildflowers, it’s newly padded with deliciously rustic French brasserie fare…

Read More

Trend Spotting: The French Food Revival

Neighborhood: | Featured in Gourmet Gossip, Trendwatch

It seems odd to speak of French food as a trend, considering that its associated techniques, ingredients, flavor profiles and dishes form the backbone of a seemingly endless, totally disparate range of cuisines, from Japanese to Haitian to farm-to-table American. And yet, in the last couple of years, the French influence in New York has been far more evident than the occasional cassoulet, a swipe of béchamel sauce, a quenelle of sorbet, or vegetables cut into a perfect julienne or brunoise.

Read More

Q & A with Rebelle’s Chef Daniel Eddy

Neighborhood: , | Featured in Chef Q&A, Chef Q&A Recipes

NYC is home to many of the very best French chefs in the world, from Eric Ripert to Daniel Boulud to Jean-Georges Vongerichten. So who would have thought that a Nicaraguan New Yorker — and a former actor, no less — would currently be serving hip French fare in the city?

Read More

Beaubourg – First Bite

Neighborhood: , , | Featured in First Bite, Restaurant, Reviews

I’ll admit I get neighborhood envy. How could I not? I live on the Upper East Side. And while we’ve admittedly made strides with the addition of Ristorante Morini, Rotisserie Georgette and the like, we have a long, long way to go. So you can imagine how jelly donuts I was to hear about the new French marketplace that is Le District all the way down in Battery Park…

Read More

Inside Le District, Battery City’s French Food Mecca

Neighborhood: , | Featured in Food Markets

Hudson Eats is already one of New York’s most impressive new food halls. But the long-awaited debut of Le District — a 30,000-square foot market and dining mecca on the ground floor of Brookfield Place— has put it over the top. Essentially the French version of Eataly, the gleaming, gourmet mecca is divided into four major sections…

Read More

Restaurant Spotting: Bara

Neighborhood: | Featured in First Bite, First Bite, Hottest Newcomers, Restaurant, Reviews

The East Village is arguably New York’s top dining destination right now, with more than its share of noteworthy newcomers (Tuome, Huertas, King Bee, GG’s, Bowery Meat Company, Root and Bone, & Empellon al Pastor), and just as many seminal institutions, like Russ & Daughters, Prune, & Momofuku Noodle Bar. But the restaurant we’re most excited about hasn’t made anyone’s “hot” list yet, which means you can actually still snag a prime time table…

Read More

Racines NY – Reviewed

Neighborhood: | Featured in Hottest Newcomers, Restaurant, Reviews

The cool thing about living in New York is that chefs and restaurateurs from all over the world want to open up right here in Manhattan. Now you don’t have to go all the way to Paris to try the popular, market-driven wine bar & bistro, Racines, because they just opened a stateside outpost…

Read More

L’Arpege

Neighborhood: , | Featured in City Guides

When I think of French food, I think of creamy sauces, rich reductions, and decadent meats.  Vegetarian fare?   Now, that’s not something I’d ever associate with France. But I recently had over twenty, mind-blowing courses at L’Arpege and most of them were vegetarian, and every one was divine.  You see, the chef, Alain Passard, is like the vegetable whisperer, teasing maximum flavor our of nature’s produce, plucked from Passard’s own garden and farm.  He earned three Michelin stars at L’Arpege and he deserves every one of them.  (In fact, he earned two stars elsewhere at the tender age of 26.)  His Onion & Parmesan Gratin with Black Truffles is perfectly caramelized; sweet and savory Cevennes Onions and just plain unforgettable.  So is the Vegetable Consommé with Four Ravioli, each tucked with a different vegetable from Passard’s garden; a delicate...

Read More

La Regalade Conservatoire

Neighborhood: , | Featured in City Guides, Restaurant

Most of us don’t have the luxury to pick up and spend two, three weeks, or even a month in another country.  (I’m still not sure how I pulled off six weeks in Paris, but I won’t look a gift horse in the mouth.)  When you only have a few nights in a country, you have to pick your restaurants very carefully.  You google online, pulling up Travel & Leisure, Frommers, Fodor’s and the like, ask a friend who’s been, maybe skim a few, local blogs, then hope for the best.  If I had to pick my top five Paris restaurants, I would most definitely include La Regalade Conservatoire and that says a lot. La Regalade is the perfect example of a modern French bistro with authentic French cooking.   It’s not one of those been around forever bistros with rickety...

Read More

Yam’Tcha

Neighborhood: , | Featured in City Guides, Restaurant

If you’ve spent time traveling abroad, I’m sure you’ve realized it isn’t exactly the easiest thing to make dinner reservations on your own, what with country codes and different time zones.  Never mind foreign countries with languages that are foreign to you, too.   And it’s even harder to get a table at a hot restaurant where prime time tables are scarce.  If you don’t speak the language, you have to rely on your hotel’s concierge to do the negotiating for you. (And if you rented a flat, villa, apartment, or chateau, well, it’s even more impossible.) According to the food blog, Eater, a reservation at Yam’Tcha is one of the “Eleven Toughest Reservations in the World.”   (It’s in such esteemed company as Noma, Tickets and The Fat Duck.)   Truth be told, one of the reasons it’s so difficult is...

Read More

Le Chateaubriand

Neighborhood: , | Featured in City Guides

Wander by Le Chateaubriand and you’d never guess it was one of the top fifty restaurants in the world, at least according to San Pellegrino’s annual list.   In fact, it ranked number nine in 2009, which is no small feat.   This humble bistro looks like it’s been around forever: The tables are a weathered wood, the floors made of faded tiles, dim globes hanging from the ceiling, and chalkboards along several walls, featuring wine makers and wines by the glass.  Upfront, there’s a quaint bar with a Marzocco coffee maker and a window onto the street. Not exactly what you’d imagine to find at one of the toughest reservations in the world.  The menu is a 65 Euro tasting menu, a pretty good deal considering there are over six courses.  The most pretentious thing about Le Chateaubriand is its...

Read More

Le Relais Louis XIII

Neighborhood: , | Featured in City Guides, Restaurant

The thing about dining in Paris nowadays is that there are so many modern French restaurants that it’s hard to find a traditional, fine French one.  You know, the kind that features Quenelles, Frog Legs Provencale, Sole Meuniere, and a proper Grand Marnier Souffle (I don’t know about you, but I’m salivating already!).  Classics are what French food is about really.  After eating my way through Paris for six weeks, I’d yet to even spy Quenelles — light-as-air fish dumplings — on a menu.  In fact, I was worried this menu warhorse was in danger of extinction. It was actually a local, a born and bred Parisian driver named Thomas, who tipped me off to Le Relais Louis XIII.  Now, I’d done plenty of due diligence on where to eat and Louis XIII was not on anybody’s must-try list....

Read More

Breizh Cafe

Neighborhood: , , | Featured in City Guides, Restaurant

You can’t go to Paris and not eat crepes.  Quelle sacrilege!  After all, crepes are one of France’s most beloved street foods, and one of the world’s greatest hangover remedies.  (Well, it’s true.)  These savory and sweet, wafer- thin pancakes are sold on nearly every corner.  Though I prefer to eat them sitting at a table with a bowl of cider (that’s the traditional way to serve it).  While there’s no shortage of Creperies in Paris, two of the best happen to be in the Marais: Creperie Suzette, and my all-time favorite, Breizh Cafe. Owner and Brittany born Bertrand Larcher first opened back in 2007 and it’s been packed ever since.  Don’t take my word for it: Just check out the crowds spilling out onto the sidewalk on the stylish Rue Vieille du Temple in hopes of a table.  My...

Read More

Saturne

Neighborhood: , | Featured in City Guides, Restaurant

There’s a new school of, well, new restaurants in Paris that all seem a lot alike, so I was worried Saturne would feel like deja vu.  (A little like Spring, a little like Bones and Roseval.)  But it didn’t look much like the others, most of them tiny, no frills spots with not much to look at except your plate. Saturne, on the other hand, is a breezy beauty with soaring ceilings and huge picture windows flung open onto the street on warm days.  There’s a second dining room in the back with a glass roof, which is equally as interesting as the front, so don’t fret over which room you’re sat in because they’re both great!  The space itself is modern and yet casually elegant, furbished with blonde wood floors, tables and even a wood-topped bar, dark leather banquettes and...

Read More

Rech

Neighborhood: , | Featured in City Guides, Restaurant

Talk about an underrated restaurant: Not once did anyone mention Rech when recommending restaurants to visit in Paris.  That’s a mistake. I make to sure hit up Rech every time I head to Paris because it’s all the things you love about France wrapped up in one casually elegant spot.  Why?  For starters, there’s a terrific selection of Oysters from all over France.  But that’s just one of the stellar slurry of shellfish on display outside the entrance of Rech, a compelling lure to step inside and order the Seafood Plateau, brimming with Langoustines, Mussels, Clams, Crayfish, Whelks, Shrimps and I could go on.  You could order the Plateau, nibble on great French bread and butter, drink some Chablis and call it a good night here. But then you’d miss the Vegetable Tart, a vibrant melange of spring produce —...

Read More

Astrance

Neighborhood: , | Featured in City Guides

As a foodie, I’ve always wanted to eat at Astrance.   It’s one of those great dining legends you hear about, hoping one day you’ll get to experience the magic for yourself.  Pascal Barbot & Christophe Rohat’s joint venture earned them three Michelin stars and a spot on San Pellegrino’s Top Fifty Restaurants In the World List for the last decade.  How could you go wrong? Something went wrong because I wasn’t wowed or moved much at all.  Don’t get me wrong: It’s not that dinner was bad.  It’s an entirely elegant and intimate spot (with just twenty five seats), and the service is impeccable.  The serene space is spread out over two floors, which are decorated with yellow leather banquettes, sky high ceilings, and charcoal gray walls.  And I can’t ignore how fantastic the wine list is because there are...

Read More

Le Comptoir Du Relais

Neighborhood: , | Featured in City Guides, Restaurant

Some restaurants have that certain magic you can’t quite put into words.   You know, one of those spots that everyone wants to not only see and be seen, but also wants to eat at.  That’s not an easy or common combination.  Just think about the restaurant at the Hotel Costes.  Locals and tourists alike aspire to sit on the terrace at this sceney spot, sipping rose and people watching.   But what do they eat?  The same thing they eat at every single Hotel Costes restaurant (and there are nearly 100 Costes-owned and run eateries in Paris), and it’s all mediocre at best. Le Comptoir, on the other hand, is one of those few, magical restaurants that manages to be everything to everyone.  It’s fashionable without trying to be and the food is terrific.   Though it’s been around for...

Read More

Le Dome Cafe

Neighborhood: , | Featured in City Guides, Restaurant

If you’re looking for an old school brasserie to sup on oysters and Chablis, Le Dome in Montparnasse is a fine idea.  (Ernest Hemingway and Henry Miller made a regular habit of Le Dome.) With bragging rights to a Michelin star and its own seafood shop just around the corner, the kitchen’s got today’s catch at its fingertips.  As is often the case in seafood brasseries in Paris, the shellfish is on jewelry-like display at the entrance of the eatery, everything from Gillardeau and Fines De Claires oysters to Clams, Mussels and Langoustines.  The space is a warm, cozy spot (especially good for a chilly night), outfitted in red-and-gold velvet banquettes, wood paneling along the walls and dangling light fixtures shrouded in lampshades. This is a fruits de mer platter kind of spot, so you’ll want to try whatever’s...

Read More

Florence Kahn

Neighborhood: , , | Featured in City Guides, Restaurant

You wouldn’t expect to find a boulangerie in the heart of the Marais named after the first Jewish woman to serve in the United States Congress. But there’s nothing American about this shop, easily identifiable by its beautiful, blue and white tile mosaic on the facade. (It’s actually a Paris landmark, which originally opened back in 1932.) In fact, it’s one of the last standing, traditional Jewish bakeries in Paris’s Jewish Quarter, and undoubtedly the best, especially for Pre-War Europe classics…

Read More

Restaurant Spotting: Le Cirque Revitalized

Neighborhood: | Featured in Restaurant Spotting

Unlike tourists meccas like Tavern on the Green, Le Cirque has always been an iconic haven for local glitterati — such as Barbara Walters and Michael Bloomberg, who owns the glass-fronted, u-shaped building where Le Cirque is now housed. Recently, Le Cirque got a new chef and with it a menu makeover, making it worth a revisit…

Read More